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Old 2012-05-18, 02:00 AM   #16
Justin LE
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1-way bearing adapter plate

The adapter starts off as a chunk of 1" aluminum plate on a rotary table in the milling machine.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:05 AM   #17
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Then the outside surface is machined out. This will become the new right side of the Nuvinci hub, and the cavity in the middle is machined to a 72mm bores so that it can support a CSK35PP one-way bearing.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:08 AM   #18
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The inside surface here should just fit over the recently machined Nuvinci hub. Parting the metal piece this way out of what started off as just a square cutoff chunk of aluminum is always a bit magical.

The holes around the adapter flange will bolt to what's left of the Nuvinci spoke flange.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:09 AM   #19
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Woah....So Awsome

I did not want that story book to end.
Please post more, its really cool.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:16 AM   #20
Justin LE
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Thru Axle Hub

For the actual wheel itself, I decided to use an off-the-shelf 20mm thru axle front bicycle hub rather than machining one from scratch.

The thru axle hub standard is 110mm wide, so it works OK with the 100mm ball bearing width of a unicycle frame, and by making a spindle that is 20mm OD then it becomes pretty straightforward to have a spindle that goes through the hub and rotates independent of the wheel.

The only minor modification I had to make to the hub was machining down the face for the disk mount so that the cog and chain which will bolt to it won't rub against the frame.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:19 AM   #21
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Spindle

The square taper spindles I found at the bike shops were all too short, so I hacked up a cartridge bottom bracket, removed the spindle, and then cut it in half.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:21 AM   #22
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Spindle (cont.)

A piece of steel tubing was then turned on a lathe to have a 20mm OD, and a bore that just fit the spindle halves pulled from the bottom bracket.

Once assembled and welded together we had a square taper spindle that fit right inside the 20mm thru axle hub and which was long enough for the cranks to be properly clear the frame.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:38 AM   #23
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Nuvinci Drive Cog

The nuvinci hub comes with a splined interface that a threaded adapter slides onto on which you then attach a screw-on freewheel. This had to be modified quite a bit to in order to fit a drive cog and the one way ball bearing. I decided to use a standard ISO 44mm disk bolt pattern, since there are fix-gear bike types who use the disk mount of a bicycle hub for a fix gear cog.

In my case, I had a set of 16, 18, and 20 tooth cogs with a disk mount bolt pattern from tomicog that I got in anticipation of this project.

So a disk was cut out of 1/4" steel plate with a hole saw, then drilled and tapped with a 44mm ISO bolt pattern, and then silver soldered to the splined freewheel thread adapter from the Nuvinci.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:40 AM   #24
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Here is the set of drive chain parts lined up how they will all fit together.
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:43 AM   #25
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First drivechain test

And then after sandblasting and making a few shims and spacers for all the alignments to work out, we finally got to test out the entire drivechain assembly just last week!
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Old 2012-05-18, 02:45 AM   #26
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go JUSTIN
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Old 2012-05-18, 04:02 AM   #27
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That frame is beautiful! Brilliant work!
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Old 2012-05-18, 05:22 AM   #28
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Beautiful work!

I did not realize you could braze stainless steel. Do you need special brazing rods?

Scott
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Old 2012-05-18, 05:39 AM   #29
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Wow!

Holy cow, what an amazing series of photos showing the evolution of an even more amazing project! Looking forward to seeing more results as you post them, keep up the brilliant work!
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Old 2012-05-18, 06:52 AM   #30
Dartmech
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Over the years I've been a member of multiple car and motorcycle forums that have never had a post with such detail and commitment to the final product. Kudos my friend. Oh the world domination devices I would make with all that machinery at my finger tips...
BUT it looks like its going to be ridiculously heavy. I still wanna ride when you get done though.

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