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Old 2012-01-12, 04:36 PM   #16
Smilymarco
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See below



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Old 2012-01-12, 05:23 PM   #17
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oooOOOoooo very nice

100mm spacing?

Do you need to remove the bearing to get the disk on?

Is that an all-new flange or did you just move the old one?


I am going to stick with crank mounted disks but I can see some advantages to this system.
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Old 2012-01-12, 09:33 PM   #18
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OMG i want to see the plans for that!! and some specs.
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Old 2012-01-13, 09:21 AM   #19
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Its still 100mm spacing and it was an old nimbus hub More infos later... when i get my rim and start building the wheel
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Old 2012-01-14, 12:52 AM   #20
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My current project is an underseat mount for my DIY LED light. Initial testing suggests the idea should work - the moving shadows from my legs were a little distracting, but something I suspect I'd learn to ignore, and in any case I can bring the light a couple of inches further forwards than my initial mount point without interfering with the grab handle which should make this a far less significant issue. I still need a head mounted light - if nothing else for mounting when I need to have the underseat light switched off so it doesn't shine in my eyes - but riding with just a head light the lack of shadows and perspective is noticeable, was having UPDs due to not being able to see bumps in the trail.
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Old 2012-01-14, 09:45 AM   #21
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We're building an LED brake light for our formula students car, 15W power. We had some work accidents with the last one, someone tests the brake while someone works at the rear of the car - dang instant blindness. So this year we're building it with a brightness regulator. We're using an LED driver with configurable current, that can be controlled via PWM by our µC. The circuit goes right into our automatic fuse box, so we just need one cable to the rear for the light.

I know it's semi-off-topic, but I couldn't resist.
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Old 2012-01-14, 10:58 AM   #22
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brake lights

Not quite as off-topic:
Busch&Müller has come up with a reliable brake light for bicycles... "toplight line brake plus", the model is called (B&M's chain names get longer and longer with every feature....).
Very simple and ingenious: it detects deceleration of the bicycle via the frequenzy change of its power supply.
So it's for dynamo lighting systems only. People who use galvanic lighting have to look out for a model with an accelerometer... I have one of those, doesn't work too well...
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Old 2012-01-14, 11:31 AM   #23
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You can just add a pressure switch into you braking system, they're pretty cheap. You need a thread somewhere. The easiest would probably be to enlarge the thread for the liquid release in the caliper.
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Old 2012-01-14, 06:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamikaze View Post
You can just add a pressure switch into you braking system, they're pretty cheap. You need a thread somewhere. The easiest would probably be to enlarge the thread for the liquid release in the caliper.
You can, but the accelerometer type devices have the advantage of being self-contained. The trouble is, how do they tell you haven't just hit a steep uphill?
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Old 2012-01-14, 07:14 PM   #25
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waiting for my finger to heal up after a accident at work with power rolls and my index finger
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Old 2012-01-15, 04:54 PM   #26
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Quote:
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You can, but the accelerometer type devices have the advantage of being self-contained. The trouble is, how do they tell you haven't just hit a steep uphill?
They don't. That of course applies for the frequency change system as well...
I think that it's good if the thing actually detects deceleration, not braking. Cars travel so fast and have such catastrophic cw*A and rolling resistance that the mechanical work they spend on height change when climbing is quite negligible to the energy they are still heating their environment with (via friction).
So they don't get much slower when they hit the hill, because they are just putting out so much power to compensate for their inefficiency - in contrast to the cyclist in front of them. And I don't see anything negative about it if the half-asleep commuter in the car gets the information that the cyclist in front of him is losing speed, and surely more than him, at that.
I think that for a car I'd rather be in favour of the switch solution...
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Old 2012-01-15, 06:04 PM   #27
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Triton Build in Progress

Just ordered a 26/29 Triton Frame and a disc brake rotor/assembly from Mountain Uni. ETA: Tuesday

The rest of the bike is still un-ordered but this is what it might look like:
  • Hope Tech X2 hydraulic brake caliper/lever assembly
  • KH Spooner
  • KH Fusion freeride Saddle, probably gray stripe
  • Undecided: Thomson vs. KH Seatpost. If KH, adjustable vs Fixed.
  • KH Freeride rims: 26 and 29.
  • KH Moment Hub, CroMolly
  • KH Rim strips... color... No idea.
  • 36 Spokes, 3x crossover. SS. Undecided on black vs silver. Looking at Wheelsmith 2.0mm (14G) but subject to change. Cost of Ti not worth the weight differential.
  • Nipples... looking at AL as an alternative to standard brass.
  • Tires... totally undecided. The 26 will be gated more toward off road while the 29 will need to be more road friendly.
  • Pedals... like tires... they will change anyway. I like the wellgo but the ubiquitous oddessy twisted PCs are tough to beat on price vs weight vs usability

Planned events for this new unit:
  1. Urban bike ride on 4/1 (Urban Assault Ride)... This uni will be ready by then.
  2. Vacation at the beach... early June
  3. 24 hour Charity bike ride... end of July
  4. This is my second year riding one wheel... it's time to tackle some single track.
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Old 2012-01-17, 06:05 PM   #28
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I've been falling on ice a lot lately so I decided to make myself a studded tire. I'm thinking about cutting down the center-most studs a little, as they seem a bit long. I've got about 4 hours and 200 studs into it so far. I'm hoping it works out.
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Old 2012-01-20, 01:10 AM   #29
knoxuni
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Trials:
2012 KH street seat black
Nimbus equinox frame
and a nimbus blizzard
some metal trials pedals
MUni
KH frame and seat post.
some tires
good pedals.
150 moments.
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Old 2012-01-20, 10:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EwokChieftain View Post
And I don't see anything negative about it if the half-asleep commuter in the car gets the information that the cyclist in front of him is losing speed, and surely more than him, at that.
I think that for a car I'd rather be in favour of the switch solution...
No vehicle driver expects a cyclist to retain his full speed uphill. You don't need to advertise that with brake signal. The difference is in the abruptness of the stop. And the pressure switch is a very reliable solution.

Any way, I just have a permanent red light to the back and a permanent white light to the front. I don't really see the need for a brake light at all. Any vehicle driver knows what kinds of things can make a cyclist slow down and will drive with appropriate caution.
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