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Old 2010-08-19, 11:31 AM   #241
hugo
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No does not look like there's any pattern (so I'm not worried about my M0227 when your M0228 is affected). 1000 km w/o problems so far.
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Old 2010-08-19, 06:22 PM   #242
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Old 2010-08-23, 09:26 AM   #243
hugo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hugo View Post
Thanks for posting the picture of the Karver. It really looks like the optimal shoe. Usually I shift with the heel but it is easier to shift with the ankle - if it is padded. Because the carver has the padding only on the side of the crank, it should work very well.

I don't like the design of the Karver very much but I can live with it.

And: The shoe is available in UK size 12 (German 47), so it will be very comfortable for me.

After all, I just ordered a pair
I got my Karvers some weeks ago and used them on my 36" with 150 mm cranks. So far, I am a bit disappointed.

It is an exellent shoe for all kinds of unicycling, so I don't regret that I've ordered them. But I don't see that I have more success with shifting. In fact, I had my first two UPDs while trying to shift on the 36" (landed on my feet, fortunately).

The padding over the ankle is not as strong as I expected, so the button pushes the padding towards the ankle (with no effect) instead of being pushed in by the padding.

Maybe I need to practice a little more.....
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Last edited by hugo; 2010-08-23 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 2010-08-23, 03:52 PM   #244
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Those Karvers are very nice shoes for unicycling. I took them to Mongolia and they worked great. It was nice to have 5.10 rubber too. One time we had a river crossing that was jumping from boulder to boulder and it was great to have such sticky, nice rubber. I find shifting with them quite nice.
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Old 2010-08-25, 10:12 PM   #245
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Quote:
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I was riding with Gilby the other day at U Games and noticed that he still had the same Schlumpf 29er he as used on several tours. He verified that it is the same original one he had since 2005, had it rebuilt by Florian on the Laos tour in 2006, etc. Still going strong.
I got the replacement hub in December 2005 and have never had any issues with it (or with the recalled one it replaced).
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Old 2010-08-30, 07:48 PM   #246
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Here's a video showing the problem;

Schlumpf problem. on Vimeo

As you can see it looks like the bearing is loose from the hub, not from the axe. Sometimes the bearing turns with the wheel, when it is supposed to be fix.

I did 300km crosscrountry since the repair, and I was smooth. These was my first rides with a geared muni.
In fact my understanding is that there is not enough thickness of aluminum material all around the outer bearing cage and you loose the tightening. Florian made too large holes too save weight ! I was surprised when I saw the first photo with bigger bearings hubs and it seems to be the reason of your concern. May be next production batch will be improved again ?

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Last edited by bouin-bouin; 2010-08-30 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 2010-08-30, 11:50 PM   #247
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The locktight solution worked for me.
I had to remove the bearings to clean up the hub's body and outter bearing, then I reinstalled evrything before applying red locktight all around the bearing. I rode ~100km without any trouble. I hope it will hold on for a long time !
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Old 2010-08-31, 02:15 AM   #248
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The Schlumpf website lists a Street Hub FS and and a Muni Hub KH. Which hubs are people getting these days? Does he still manufacture both models? Has everyone gone to the KH for compatibility with KH frames? Do you have any advice for which one is more appropriate for road riding on a 29" or 36" wheel?

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Old 2010-08-31, 05:15 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott ttocs View Post
The Schlumpf website lists a Street Hub FS and and a Muni Hub KH. Which hubs are people getting these days? Does he still manufacture both models? Has everyone gone to the KH for compatibility with KH frames? Do you have any advice for which one is more appropriate for road riding on a 29" or 36" wheel?

Scott
Scott, You want the KH one -- it has an ISIS hub, which allows the use of KH cranks. KH ISIS splined cranks are the best; I was constantly bending or breaking the standard square tapered cranks.

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Old 2010-08-31, 03:02 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeanbute View Post
The locktight solution worked for me.
I had to remove the bearings to clean up the hub's body and outter bearing, then I reinstalled evrything before applying red locktight all around the bearing. I rode ~100km without any trouble. I hope it will hold on for a long time !
Loctite (and not Locktight !) cannot be a real solution as the bearing loose start by a plastic deformation of aluminum flange, it will just extend hub life
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Old 2010-08-31, 10:22 PM   #251
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Alright, thanks for the advice. At least I will be able to ride it untill winter, then I may ship it back to Florian for a permanent repair.
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Old 2010-09-17, 09:43 PM   #252
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Tool for the Schlumpf

I got my Schlumpf used and the wrench used to hold the gear button wasn't included, does anyone have a suggestion for an alternative?
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Old 2010-09-18, 12:33 AM   #253
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I think you should ask the guy who sold it to give you a wrench. Why would he want to keep it anyways? Maybe he just forgot to include it.
Otherwise contact Schlumpf. Of course it will involve some shipping costs then.
Or as another possibility make your own tool or have it made. It shouldn't be that difficult.
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Old 2010-09-18, 01:12 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asthian View Post
I got my Schlumpf used and the wrench used to hold the gear button wasn't included, does anyone have a suggestion for an alternative?
For a while my button tool was lost. I've since found it, but in the meantime I used a snap ring tool. It worked very well for me.
Like this one at Harbor Freight.

(I can't seem to upload images all of the sudden. Huh.)
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Old 2010-09-19, 12:58 AM   #255
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-For a while my button tool was lost. I've since found it, but in the meantime I used a snap ring tool. It worked very well for me.

Cool. Thanks.
I'll give that a try.
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