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Old 2010-07-09, 11:39 PM   #151
lunicycle
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Help. I had about 3 miles on my Schlumpf and the cranks started to slip while in high gear. It happened the first time and I thought it was just the tire spinning out. But then it happened going up an easy hill and I fell off. When I tried to get back on it did it while mounting--Cranks moved but the wheel didn't. Could it be that my hub is already broken? It's only 3 miles old. It still works fine in low gear.
Have you checked the bolt tension in the bearing housings? If the bearing housing is too loose (on the knurled side) it can slip in high gear. Hope that helps.
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Old 2010-07-10, 12:11 AM   #152
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I hope it's that easy. I hate to admit I don't know what a knurled side is.
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Old 2010-07-10, 12:26 AM   #153
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no worries, sorry I wasn't clear.

Check that the hub bearings are seated properly in the frame. Then check the tension in the allen screws on both bearing housings. The recommended torque for the allen screws is etched on the hub. The knurled bearing surface shown below - it needs to be held in place by the frame bearing housing (sorry if that isn't the correct lingo), else slippage.

It could be something else, but hopefully it's a simple thing like this.
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Old 2010-07-10, 12:50 AM   #154
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Thanks. That is very helpful. I really hope it's just that simple. I don't have a torque wrench that small. It was built and put together for me. I'll have he guy who did it check it and then I'll get myself a torque wrench so I can check it myself.
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Old 2010-07-10, 01:09 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by mbalmer View Post
Thanks. That is very helpful. I really hope it's just that simple. I don't have a torque wrench that small. It was built and put together for me. I'll have he guy who did it check it and then I'll get myself a torque wrench so I can check it myself.
Mbalmer: The bearing holders of a "regular" uni are way-short of hand-tight, that is, not as tight as you can crank it, even with a small allen wrench. If you do tighten down the bearing holder's bolts really hard on the regular bearing, the wheel doesn't spin very well. So if the guy who assembled the uni for you set it up like a "normal" modern uni, this is why you're slipping.

The bearing holder of the knurled side of the Schlumpf should be darn tight, though still less than the tightest as you can crank it, barehanded, with a small allen wrench. I'm sure torque wrenches are really the way to go, but I don't have one, and this has worked for me. Just make it pretty tight compared to the "regular" side.

As lunicycle and others are saying, hopefully this is the problem.
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Old 2010-07-10, 01:18 AM   #156
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Thanks. That is very helpful. I really hope it's just that simple. I don't have a torque wrench that small. It was built and put together for me. I'll have he guy who did it check it and then I'll get myself a torque wrench so I can check it myself.
no worries. You can check yourself if there has been slippage by removing the bearing clamps/holders and having a look. The 'inside'/underside of the bearing housing that held the knurled bearing should just have a fairly clean imprint of the knurling where it has held the bearing firmly. If there has been slippage the inside of that bearing housing won't look like that, instead will have bits of paint mushed, pushed along etc - it'll be fairly obvious if the knurled bearing has been slipping.
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Old 2010-07-10, 02:14 AM   #157
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Quote:
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Have you checked the bolt tension in the bearing housings? If the bearing housing is too loose (on the knurled side) it can slip in high gear. Hope that helps.
My Hub slipped Too and was tension to the right Torque.
I tracked it down to the bearing caps hitting the frame housing so the hub was stilll loose! I sanded down the Bearing caps 1mm and Torqued them up and all is well! I think that the KH 2010 frames changed a little? as My older framed KH was all OK!
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Old 2010-07-10, 02:35 AM   #158
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I believe you are all right on with my problem. I took the bearing caps off and the paint was mucked up on the knurled side. Put it back together, tightened it up. It felt much better for a bit and then slipped again. The bearing caps do meet the frame with no gap at all. I think this is the issue so I will sand the caps a bit. I think the problem is easily fixable. Thanks for all the tips.
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Old 2010-07-10, 06:27 AM   #159
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I believe you are all right on with my problem. I took the bearing caps off and the paint was mucked up on the knurled side. Put it back together, tightened it up. It felt much better for a bit and then slipped again. The bearing caps do meet the frame with no gap at all. I think this is the issue so I will sand the caps a bit. I think the problem is easily fixable. Thanks for all the tips.
You most likely just need to tighten the knurled side more if it is slipping.
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Old 2010-07-10, 07:58 AM   #160
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I highly recommend every Schlumpf owner get a torque wrench. They aren't that expensive (you don't need to fancy type) and they have other uses too. It is better to know than guess.

---Nathan
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Old 2010-07-10, 09:29 AM   #161
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Quote:
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I highly recommend every Schlumpf owner get a torque wrench. They aren't that expensive (you don't need to fancy type) and they have other uses too. It is better to know than guess.

---Nathan
Yes the best think to have at home is a Good Torque Wrench!
I have two Torque Wrench's! The top one's are Expensive and My one are Top end one's as I use them at work Fixing Motorcycle (race bikes) so I use them at home on My Uni's two.
The thing to watch is to get the right Torque Wrench for the Low Torque's on Schlumpf hub's a 2nm to 20nm Wrench is good.
Cycle shop's have sum low cost good one's.
Good riding.
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Old 2010-07-10, 10:38 AM   #162
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Low torque (2-25 Nm) wrenches seem to be always expensive. I did not find a cheap one so I bought an expensive one anyway.
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Old 2010-07-13, 04:26 AM   #163
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My 24 guni wheelset just arrived today - Yay! Over the weekend I bought a 1-24 NM wrench. I see that I need a higher torque to put the cranks on - no test ride tonight. After work tomorrow, I will have to pick up another wrench, some loctite and a couple 24" tubes, and I should be good to go. Is it necessary to have 2 different torque wrenches? The low-torque wrench was on sale for about $70. I will probably get a less expensive beam wrench for the cranks.
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Old 2010-07-13, 05:01 AM   #164
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Awesome re the 24 GUni wheelset arriving Tuscon!

I think it's better to have two torque wrenches, each with the target torque in the mid range of the tool - one for the buttons, one for the cranks.

I don't think it's worth going the cheap and nasty route with the wrenches, especially after paying for the hub and wanting to maintain it within Florian's specs. The potential consequences of under or over tightening aren't much fun.

Enjoy it!!
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Old 2010-07-13, 08:41 AM   #165
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There are some Digtal Torque Wrench's that will do the full Range needed with a Schlumpf. But than are a Pain as you have Batterys to check/replace and slow to adjust torque setting.
Than Cost load's TOO!
Its best to have to and to look around 1st.
I use Snap On adjustable click-type! Only because I use them at work all day Too.
Two Snap On Torque Wrench's almost cost One Schlumpf
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