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#586 | |
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GranPa goes-a-wobblin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: European Union (S-W)
Age: 64
Posts: 2,109
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yes the Gazz is a 3" yes it is a Mad4One hub. now the problems with the 26 is that the tire is a bit heavy, so the inertia is a bit like riding a Coker. I started with 140mm cranks which were ok for trails and easy descents but not with technical trails (terrible UPDs ensued). I have been trying 160mm cranks but I am not sure I like this length ![]() (should I try 150?) about the kneee-pain discussion:I concurr that shorter cranks are bad for my knees that's why I went back to longer cranks (on Coker and 29") but 145 is ok for me on the 24/3 but the 160 are also bad for my knees on the 26/3.8 so I suppose it"s a more complex rule.
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One Wheel : bear necessity |
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#587 |
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wes style!!
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I love 150s on my 26X2.7 its smoother spin than 165s and more leverage than 140s
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Be a dumbass experience dumbass consequences its full circle of dumbass And then, do it again. That makes it an infinite loop! |
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#588 |
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XC Muni
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southeast USA
Age: 47
Posts: 3,961
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Really, hmm, I guess then all the DH bikers and trial bikers shoudl consider shorter cranks, eh?
Don't confuse your personal preferences with physics. Long cranks provide more control and power than short cranks, brakes offer more control than no brakes, therefore using short cranks and a brake will provide less control than using long cranks and a brake. You can like your short cranks for what they do well, but don't tell us that short cranks can do the same as long cranks, it's just not true. Long cranks have an advantage over short cranks for power and control, just as short cranks have an advantage over long cranks for weight and smoother spinning. A skilled rider can always do with less, but even Kris admits that long cranks have their place... I've used both, recently, and I chose to go back to long cranks because they are less stressful on my knees and they give me more control. Granted, I'm not trying to ride tens of miles, and I sometimes miss the smoother spinning short cranks, but I like what I like and I'm not alone. Aspen Mike, you know the name, rode up a certain volcano, lots of skill, been doing this for a while, he rides a 29er with 175's and no brake
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I dream of hamsters and elderberries |
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#589 |
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GranPa goes-a-wobblin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: European Union (S-W)
Age: 64
Posts: 2,109
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absolutely.
when it comes to knee pain I think that I am not a skilled rider so: - when cranks are too short I try to correct trajectory by small lateral movements that are bad for my knees. - when they are too long the same thing almost happen (because I spend too much time in vertical unstable position? I don't know) well it's just a theory not real physics.... (I work for a physics department in an university and they are going to kill me if I tell stupid things )
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One Wheel : bear necessity Last edited by wobbling bear; 2012-05-24 at 04:08 PM. |
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#590 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Worthing, England Unicycle 1: KH20 LN Sold Unicycle 2: KH24 (HS33) Sold Unicycle 3: 24 Impact Gravity Unicycle 4: KH26 (Disc) rebuilt Unicycle 5: KH29 (Disc) Unicycle 6: Triton 36 (Disc)
Age: 34
Posts: 827
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Coming from an XC MTB background to MUni crank length has fascinated me due to the obsession with short cranks.
For my MTB hobby crank length was decided based on anatomical fit, Your bike and your chosen riding position decided your saddle height and fore/aft position this fixed your hip location meaning you then chose a crank length relative to your thigh length so your knee cap was in-line with your pedal spindle (using a plumb bob). Having limited crank lengths to choose from you could move your seat fore and aft and change your handlebar stem length to compensate and correct the reach. This ensured you didn't stress your knees, so whilst on a Uni things are a bit different I am sure the premise must hold true to a point, but we have to push the envelope to improve the ease of spinning circles smoothly at high rpm I would be keen to try some nice light ISIS trials cranks in 175mm my new KH20 trials has shown me what feel you get from "big cranks" (relative to the wheel). I maybe talking guff
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#591 | |
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10k & Marathon World Champ
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Quote:
Just my personal opinions. I don't use cranks longer than 140mm on any of my unicycles, including the geared ones. Also, I feel out of control with really long (160mm+) cranks. I know that is partially because I'm used to shorter ones, but the smooth, smaller circles feel more in control than the bigger wobbles, which make me feel like my legs are going all over the place. I would argue that short cranks encourage a different kind of control than long cranks do. I'm always amazed at the amount of control I can have on my freestyle with 89mm cranks, but the control that I have is quite different then the control I would have with 125mm cranks. Also, I would not categorize myself as a top freestyle rider. Also, you don't need a brake when you're riding uphill
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#592 |
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Because i can.
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Bar Beach, Newcastle, Australia
Age: 25
Posts: 954
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Oh Ben- you do like a good old debate don't you! I prescribe everyone caring about this 3hrs out on their unicycles having fun! That should fix the bickering.
I went out for a really nice ride yesterday with Jamey Mossengren and Rob O'brien out at the MTB trails at Awaba (about 40min south of Newcastle). We started off with a 12km loop of fast, flowy, and occasionally steep and tech single track. Then after a morning tea break hit up the Downhill course which was pretty fricken badass. Lots of super steep, rutted, and rocky descents, narrow rock chutes with ledges and some big jumps/drops. It had been drizzling on our way up to the top so we had to avoid some of the A lines because the rock slabs and wooden boardwalks were simply too slick to ride. We were all on G26er Munis with 137mm cranks (any longer than that and we would not have been able to clear the narrow technical sections due to pedal strikes) and the ardent 2.4 folding bead tyre, 47mm freeride rims, and Muni handlebars (of various configs). I didn't miss my dedicated DH muni at all- the 2.4 was every bit as good as the bigger 3" tyre and the 137s combined with the rim brake had lots of leverage/control. The extra rolling ability of the 26er over the 24 helped avoid getting the wheel jammed in divets, or against larger rocks. It was so much fun getting back to my DH roots- i'll have to head back out and make a video of the run because it really is in such a spectacular area. My G26er is a true 'quiver killer'. It does it all so very well that I don't need any other unicycle for off roading. Yes, that does mean every now and then you are compromising a little bit here or there- but i'm the kind of guy that thinks that stopping to adjust your seat height during a ride is for wieners who are just trying to find an excuse to have a rest. I want a uni that will ride everything, with absolutely no fiddling about- the G26 gives me that. Mark
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Find out about my latest Enduro XC rides and races at my blog. http://www.markandhisunicycle.wordpress.com |
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#593 | |
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Dropped
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southern California, USA
Age: 31
Posts: 613
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Quote:
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Shut up and ride. |
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#594 |
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Proud owner of Kris Holms old shoes
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,006
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My g26:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8996341...ream/lightbox/ I've only had about 4 rides on it so far, but like it a lot. I'm considering changing the tyre (currently a Maxxis Ardent 2.6") to something lighter, adding a KH T-Bar and possibly changing to 140mm cranks. So far I'm not convinced that the extra weight of a stubby T-Bar is worth it. From my experience of riding a g29 on the road without a handlebar I'm not sure about adding a T-Bar.
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Take a squizz at my YouTube videos! Last edited by TonyMelton; 2012-06-14 at 10:16 PM. |
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#595 |
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Proud owner of Kris Holms old shoes
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,006
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Take a squizz at my YouTube videos! |
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#596 |
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Because i can.
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Bar Beach, Newcastle, Australia
Age: 25
Posts: 954
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Nice rides Tony!
About the handlebar thing- I am a convert, and have been pretty much ever since I got back to Oz after the last Unicon and started riding in the longer MTB races. I find the area the handlebar excels in is the high gear climbing situation. You can really anchor yourself onto the uni and get heaps of torque down into the pedals. There is a weight penalty for sure, but it is non rotational and not of such a big importance IMO. I like the 2.4 ardent and have been running it tubeless for the last 2 months or so. That mod alone makes a lot of difference for the riding characteristics. All the best for your UNICON prep- I'll see you over there. Mark
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Find out about my latest Enduro XC rides and races at my blog. http://www.markandhisunicycle.wordpress.com |
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#597 |
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Not "2" Tired
Join Date: Aug 2006
Age: 57
Posts: 13,541
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KH frame "Naked"
Just got back from having my KH G26er frame powder blasted! They did it while I waited, and since I've been there before, Louis, who did the powder blasting, didn't want to charge me! (I still gave him a double saw buck!) I'm thinking of keeping it "raw" aluminum until I decide what color or pattern I might want.
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#598 | |
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Stupidity gets you 2 of these:
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I like the nude look
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Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist What's next? Learn2Ride&doTricks TrialsClasses&Building |
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#599 |
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Not "2" Tired
Join Date: Aug 2006
Age: 57
Posts: 13,541
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#600 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: manchester
Posts: 56
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Here is my new build, only given it a short ride so far, but i'm very happy with it!
![]() specs: -KH freeride seat with CF base -Oracle frame -oracle hub -KH 26 rim with green rim tape -150mm venture 2 cranks -Nukeproof Neutron pedals with Ti axle -cf cranks spacers -Hope tech M4 evo special edition brake with goodridge braided hose -Hope mono 6 saw 203mm floating rotor -Duro 26x3 tire and tube |
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