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Old 2008-11-27, 08:51 PM   #61
Klaas Bil
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Ken's last two replies are comprehensible if you assume that the button needs to be at a specific (spring-loaded?) position for the gear to lock.

This surprised me, and I wasn't ready to assume that. I just checked my own Schlumpf (moderately old type: square taper but the high number of engagement positions). I have about 1 mm of play on each side, by which I mean that each button can be pushed in against a spring about 1 mm more than the normal pushed-in position. But if I continue pushing in and turn the cranks, the coresponding gear (high for gold, low for silver) stays locked.

So is this dead zone something specific to the newer splined hub? I wouldn't think so since I've always understood that the internals are the same between the two versions.

Last edited by Klaas Bil; 2008-11-27 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 2008-11-27, 09:09 PM   #62
Chrashing
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If it's friction between the shift buttons and the crank bolt, couldn't you try shifting without the buttons on the wheel by pushing with a thin tool to see if the fail disappears. If shifting then works fine, you and Florian are on the right track. Might save a few days.
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Old 2008-11-27, 09:21 PM   #63
GizmoDuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrashing View Post
If it's friction between the shift buttons and the crank bolt, couldn't you try shifting without the buttons on the wheel by pushing with a thin tool to see if the fail disappears. If shifting then works fine, you and Florian are on the right track. Might save a few days.
That's what Florian asked me to do, and that's what I did. I spent about 5-10min trying to reproduce the problem after taking off the button and nut. And I couldn't.

After that I screwed the nut and button back on and worked out that I could reproduce the problem exactly when I push the button hard (all the way in), whilst turning the cranks. It needs to spring back about a mm or two for the gear to lock. Otherwise, the button seems to get stuck in this hypershifted position and doesn't come back out that mm to lock the gears with.

From what Florian is saying, there needs to be more play between the button and axle nut, otherwise it could potentially get stuck in this position. That's why he's sending me new nuts and buttons.

Hope that made sense.
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Old 2008-11-27, 09:27 PM   #64
sxbud138
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can you sand alittle off the shaft or buttons ? Just to get by !
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Old 2009-01-01, 12:16 AM   #65
critter
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I broke my crankarm the other day. Now I have to take off the cranks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GizmoDuck View Post
Ok, so I've had a few rides on my new Schlumpf and I tightened one shifter button a little too hard and it's stuck. I can' remove the little inner screw- I think I might have rounded it off trying.
I never touch my cranks until today. I can't even take the button off.
I used the tools it came with but it seemed to be stripped right away- on both sides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by semach.the.monkey View Post
the original Schlumpf one? I know the original ones had two grooves in the top of the button and came with a special tool that fitted in there to hold it still whilst tightening the grub screw.
I got it from UDC...it an original
So if I can hold one button I can loosen the other?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joemarshall View Post
I'm presuming you've rounded the allen key bolt, so the allen key just spins in it, it isn't just that it is very tight?

If it is rounded, and unscrewing the other side doesn't loosen it enough, the only option is to drill it out.


On other possible option is to use an easy-out / screw extractor. They are a left hand drill bit, basically you drill a little pilot hole with a normal drill bit, stick the easy out in, turn the drill to reverse, and they will dig in and unscrew the bolt (thanks to being left hand thread the drill action loosens the bolt) . You'd need to hold the button with pliers when you did this, or else it'd just screw it up. Hardware shops sell them. You'd need a pretty narrow one for a schlumpf screw though, and they are a bit brittle sometimes, so a bit risky. It will destroy the screw, but maybe not the button if you're lucky.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/...xtractor%20Set

Joe
screw extractor sounds like a option

Quote:
Originally Posted by Klaas Bil View Post
No I didn't snap the little bolt. When I wrote I snapped the Allen bit, I actually meant the Allen bit.
Mine looks like that one but it doesn't look amputated.
I do see metal filings when I check the 1.5 allen wrench

Thanks for the special tools, Schlumpf....NOT
It didn't help me or I'm too stupid.
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Last edited by critter; 2009-01-01 at 12:20 AM.
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