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#1 |
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reverse vampire
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cary, North Carolina, USA
Age: 48
Posts: 183
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About to get a new Coker, have questions
I am about to order a new Coker Big One and have some questions :
- Why would I get the XLR street tire rather than the default button tread? - Both of my current unis (24,29) have 125mm cranks. Any reason for going with the 150s? - Handle : What has been the experience with the Coker handle? - Brakes : I don't see an immediate need. The terrain I ride is not that hilly and is primarily on paved road. I could always get the brakes and put them on later. Any other factors I should consider? - Seat post/clamp - the "both" option for seat post and clamp...does that mean I get 2 seat posts and 2 clamps? Why would I do this? - Are there any benefits of ordering through a dealer like Unicycle.com rather than direct from Coker? Thanks...looking forward to some new experiences.... --tom |
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#2 |
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From the Over 50 Group
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Age: 56
Posts: 1,154
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I can address one of your items. You get a choice of seat posts but I think you only get one post clamp.
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A man can fail many times but he isn't a failure until he begins to blame someone else. - Waite Phillips The art of medicine consists of keeping the patient amused while nature heals the disease. - Voltaire |
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#3 | |
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Polska Możność
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Quote:
but most importantly, whatever you buy, you have to tell me when you get it so that I can take it for a spin .
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-Conrad |
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#4 |
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Going places on wheel.
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I agree with zfreak, but I'd like to add that you will probably find 150s too long after a of bit of riding. I'd order from UDC and get an assortment of cranks (150, 125, 114). This way you save on the shipping. You can also get the Nightrider tire which is lighter than the coker one... Also, keep in mind that saving weight in the wheel (rim/tire) is much more important than saving weight in the frame.
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#5 |
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level 1 fat guy
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Key West, FL
Posts: 1,810
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I would start with 150's
I started with 150's, went to 125, then back up to 140. Cranks are cheap, so you should get both sizes eventually. 150's are definitely easier to ride, at least for a first time 36 rider.
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#6 |
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Going places on wheel.
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Oh, make sure you get the freeride saddle. It's far better than the Velo saddle that comes with the coker.
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ludington,michigan
Age: 30
Posts: 178
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Quote:
MY 2 CENTS ! P.S I ordered mine from coker and was shiped very quickly! Last edited by sxbud138; 2008-06-28 at 01:29 AM. |
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#8 | |
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reverse vampire
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cary, North Carolina, USA
Age: 48
Posts: 183
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Titan vs Big One
Quote:
As for price, on Coker's web site, the Big One is listed at $439. On UDC, the Titan is listed at $470. Also looks like the Titan will not accept a brake. Is there a huge difference in shipping between direct from Coker and UDC? --tom |
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#9 | |
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reverse vampire
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cary, North Carolina, USA
Age: 48
Posts: 183
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Freeride vs Velo
Quote:
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#10 |
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Polska Możność
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I was going off of UDC's price of the Coker Big One, sorry. All you have to do to install that caliper brake I linked to is drill a hole in the fork of the frame. Doesn't even have to be exactly centered, just has to be relatively close.
Edit:Yes to the saddle compatability. The only saddles you really need to worry about not fitting are Miyata/LX saddles.
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-Conrad Last edited by zfreak220; 2008-06-28 at 03:16 AM. |
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#11 |
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Perry
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Just wanted to add my $.02
I got the Coker V2 back in February in anticipation of RTL. In five short months I have: * Replaced the saddle with a KH free-ride. * Trued the wheel which was poorly built. * Replaced the seat post clamp because it stripped out. * Replaced the pedals. * Purchased new crank arms without the q-factor. * Buffed off the rust from my hub (multiple times). * Treated the rust on the frame (you're not likely to have this problem with the aluminum Big One). * Replaced the crappy bearings. Check out this photo of the stock Coker bearings. http://gallery.mac.com/perrywoodin#1...&bgcolor=black And, no... I did not over tighten the cups. In my opinion, the parts on the Coker unicycles are sub-standard. If you can wait a bit longer I'd suggest holding out for the KH 36.
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2008 Evolution of Balance Award - Panama Expedition My Ride The Lobster Photo Album |
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#12 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ludington,michigan
Age: 30
Posts: 178
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Quote:
The first thing i checked on my big one was the wheel trueness and it was spot on ! The only thing is im not sure is how much tension the spokes should have ? I dont have many miles on it and the feel of the spokes hasent changed. Is your hub painted black ? if its the same as mine I will be keeping an eye on the rusting. Mine was shiped well and assembled well , i have had no problems yet. Thanks for the info ! |
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#13 | |
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Going places on wheel.
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Quote:
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#14 |
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From the Over 50 Group
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Age: 56
Posts: 1,154
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I got the Coker Big One (aluminum frame) and have been very happy with it. I do just road riding, about 6 to 10 miles at a time. No off-road. No drops.
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A man can fail many times but he isn't a failure until he begins to blame someone else. - Waite Phillips The art of medicine consists of keeping the patient amused while nature heals the disease. - Voltaire |
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#15 | |
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Ridin' my KH
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Carmichael, CA
Posts: 11,667
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- Tire comparison: Button tire is lightest one on the market, apparently. Good for dirt. XLR tire appears to be identical (as in same factory) to the Radial TA, an awesome road tire, and probably lasts even longer than the button tire on pavement. Both last a long time. When worn, I found the button tire very sensitive to road camber.
- Cranks: Opt for both, or buy others if you don't want the Q-factor. 150s are great for getting used to the cycle, but too long for going fast or all day. 125s are great for most terrain and light MUni, 150 is great for medium MUni. For something like RTL you'd want something shorter than 125. - Coker handle: My favorite one on the market. Adjust it to where *you* want it! I ran the one I was trying out really low, but the bar-end part is fairly wide and my knees had to learn to stay away from it. If you run it at a more typical height this won't be an issue. - Brakes: If you don't feel you need them, you don't need them (at least not yet). - Seat post/clamp: I like the aluminum post. Buying both give you a backup, or a choice of a long and a short one. This can be necessary if you go from MUni riding with long cranks and low seat to road riding with short cranks and high seat. Quote:
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John Foss Email: "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com ----------------------------------------------- "I ride unicycles against the orders of my doctors. I have six screws and a plate to help hold me together." -- Bungeejoe, 52 |
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