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Old 2008-06-27, 08:35 PM   #1
tomkarches
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About to get a new Coker, have questions

I am about to order a new Coker Big One and have some questions :

- Why would I get the XLR street tire rather than the default button tread?
- Both of my current unis (24,29) have 125mm cranks. Any reason for going with the 150s?
- Handle : What has been the experience with the Coker handle?
- Brakes : I don't see an immediate need. The terrain I ride is not that hilly and is primarily on paved road. I could always get the brakes and put them on later. Any other factors I should consider?
- Seat post/clamp - the "both" option for seat post and clamp...does that mean I get 2 seat posts and 2 clamps? Why would I do this?
- Are there any benefits of ordering through a dealer like Unicycle.com rather than direct from Coker?

Thanks...looking forward to some new experiences....

--tom
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Old 2008-06-27, 09:48 PM   #2
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I can address one of your items. You get a choice of seat posts but I think you only get one post clamp.
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Old 2008-06-28, 12:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkarches
I am about to order a new Coker Big One and have some questions :

- Why would I get the XLR street tire rather than the default button tread?
smoother tread for road riding means a smoother ride.
- Both of my current unis (24,29) have 125mm cranks. Any reason for going with the 150s?
if you're alread used to riding the 29er with 125s, then 125s on the coker won't be too bad. longer cranks give you more control and make (static) mounting easier. if you ever want to do umstead or crabtree you'll probably want the 150s because they give you more leverage for the hills.
- Handle : What has been the experience with the Coker handle?
three different reviews of the Coker handle: 1, 2, & 3.
- Brakes : I don't see an immediate need. The terrain I ride is not that hilly and is primarily on paved road. I could always get the brakes and put them on later. Any other factors I should consider?
caliper brakes are a lot cheaper than V-brakes. so if you buy the nimbus instead you can just by this brake and save some cash.

- Seat post/clamp - the "both" option for seat post and clamp...does that mean I get 2 seat posts and 2 clamps? Why would I do this?
both option means you get 2 seatposts. aluminum seatposts are lighter but more prone to breaking than steel posts.
- Are there any benefits of ordering through a dealer like Unicycle.com rather than direct from Coker?
free banjo.com stickers.
Thanks...looking forward to some new experiences....

--tom
all in all, the Coker big one is a great deal, however if I was buying a 36er, I would go with the Nimbus Titan. Cheaper, parts are more universal and replaceable, better seat if upgraded to KH Freeride, and better tire choices when buying from UDC.

but most importantly, whatever you buy, you have to tell me when you get it so that I can take it for a spin .
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Old 2008-06-28, 12:46 AM   #4
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I agree with zfreak, but I'd like to add that you will probably find 150s too long after a of bit of riding. I'd order from UDC and get an assortment of cranks (150, 125, 114). This way you save on the shipping. You can also get the Nightrider tire which is lighter than the coker one... Also, keep in mind that saving weight in the wheel (rim/tire) is much more important than saving weight in the frame.
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Old 2008-06-28, 12:57 AM   #5
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I would start with 150's

I started with 150's, went to 125, then back up to 140. Cranks are cheap, so you should get both sizes eventually. 150's are definitely easier to ride, at least for a first time 36 rider.
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Old 2008-06-28, 01:15 AM   #6
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Oh, make sure you get the freeride saddle. It's far better than the Velo saddle that comes with the coker.
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Old 2008-06-28, 01:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkarches
I am about to order a new Coker Big One and have some questions :

- Why would I get the XLR street tire rather than the default button tread?
- Both of my current unis (24,29) have 125mm cranks. Any reason for going with the 150s?
- Handle : What has been the experience with the Coker handle?
- Brakes : I don't see an immediate need. The terrain I ride is not that hilly and is primarily on paved road. I could always get the brakes and put them on later. Any other factors I should consider?
- Seat post/clamp - the "both" option for seat post and clamp...does that mean I get 2 seat posts and 2 clamps? Why would I do this?
- Are there any benefits of ordering through a dealer like Unicycle.com rather than direct from Coker?

Thanks...looking forward to some new experiences....

--tom
I just got my coker 2 weeks ago and i love it. This is my first 36er and i picked the xlr tire and for me its working great ! smooth and quiet. I did get the bar with the uni and it works very well, i like the adjustabilty of it. I opted not to get the brakes but after i rode it i thought i should get some. So off to the LBS and picked up a set for 20 bucks. i mounted the lever to my right handle so far i like it out their.The only thing i didnt do was buy the 125s, now i wish i would of spent the 25 bucks more as i feel the need for shorter cranks very soon. The 150s are nice to start on !
MY 2 CENTS !

P.S I ordered mine from coker and was shiped very quickly!

Last edited by sxbud138; 2008-06-28 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 2008-06-28, 03:08 AM   #8
tomkarches
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Titan vs Big One

Quote:
Originally Posted by zfreak220
all in all, the Coker big one is a great deal, however if I was buying a 36er, I would go with the Nimbus Titan. Cheaper, parts are more universal and replaceable, better seat if upgraded to KH Freeride, and better tire choices when buying from UDC.

but most importantly, whatever you buy, you have to tell me when you get it so that I can take it for a spin .
I'll let you know :-)

As for price, on Coker's web site, the Big One is listed at $439. On UDC, the Titan is listed at $470. Also looks like the Titan will not accept a brake.

Is there a huge difference in shipping between direct from Coker and UDC?

--tom
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Old 2008-06-28, 03:14 AM   #9
tomkarches
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Freeride vs Velo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eroick
Oh, make sure you get the freeride saddle. It's far better than the Velo saddle that comes with the coker.
My Bedford 29 has the Freeride saddle. Is the bolt pattern compatible with the Velo?
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Old 2008-06-28, 03:15 AM   #10
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I was going off of UDC's price of the Coker Big One, sorry. All you have to do to install that caliper brake I linked to is drill a hole in the fork of the frame. Doesn't even have to be exactly centered, just has to be relatively close.

Edit:Yes to the saddle compatability. The only saddles you really need to worry about not fitting are Miyata/LX saddles.
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Last edited by zfreak220; 2008-06-28 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 2008-06-28, 06:02 PM   #11
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Just wanted to add my $.02

I got the Coker V2 back in February in anticipation of RTL. In five short months I have:

* Replaced the saddle with a KH free-ride.
* Trued the wheel which was poorly built.
* Replaced the seat post clamp because it stripped out.
* Replaced the pedals.
* Purchased new crank arms without the q-factor.
* Buffed off the rust from my hub (multiple times).
* Treated the rust on the frame (you're not likely to have this problem with the aluminum Big One).
* Replaced the crappy bearings. Check out this photo of the stock Coker bearings. http://gallery.mac.com/perrywoodin#1...&bgcolor=black And, no... I did not over tighten the cups.

In my opinion, the parts on the Coker unicycles are sub-standard. If you can wait a bit longer I'd suggest holding out for the KH 36.
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Old 2008-06-28, 06:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capuni
Just wanted to add my $.02

I got the Coker V2 back in February in anticipation of RTL. In five short months I have:

* Replaced the saddle with a KH free-ride.
* Trued the wheel which was poorly built.
* Replaced the seat post clamp because it stripped out.
* Replaced the pedals.
* Purchased new crank arms without the q-factor.
* Buffed off the rust from my hub (multiple times).
* Treated the rust on the frame (you're not likely to have this problem with the aluminum Big One).
* Replaced the crappy bearings. Check out this photo of the stock Coker bearings. http://gallery.mac.com/perrywoodin#1...&bgcolor=black And, no... I did not over tighten the cups.

In my opinion, the parts on the Coker unicycles are sub-standard. If you can wait a bit longer I'd suggest holding out for the KH 36.

The first thing i checked on my big one was the wheel trueness and it was spot on ! The only thing is im not sure is how much tension the spokes should have ?
I dont have many miles on it and the feel of the spokes hasent changed.
Is your hub painted black ? if its the same as mine I will be keeping an eye on the rusting. Mine was shiped well and assembled well , i have had no problems yet.
Thanks for the info !
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Old 2008-06-28, 07:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capuni
* Replaced the crappy bearings. Check out this photo of the stock Coker bearings. http://gallery.mac.com/perrywoodin#1...&bgcolor=black And, no... I did not over tighten the cups.
Yeah, I remember seeing those come off.
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Old 2008-06-28, 08:11 PM   #14
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I got the Coker Big One (aluminum frame) and have been very happy with it. I do just road riding, about 6 to 10 miles at a time. No off-road. No drops.
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Old 2008-06-28, 10:06 PM   #15
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- Tire comparison: Button tire is lightest one on the market, apparently. Good for dirt. XLR tire appears to be identical (as in same factory) to the Radial TA, an awesome road tire, and probably lasts even longer than the button tire on pavement. Both last a long time. When worn, I found the button tire very sensitive to road camber.
- Cranks: Opt for both, or buy others if you don't want the Q-factor. 150s are great for getting used to the cycle, but too long for going fast or all day. 125s are great for most terrain and light MUni, 150 is great for medium MUni. For something like RTL you'd want something shorter than 125.
- Coker handle: My favorite one on the market. Adjust it to where *you* want it! I ran the one I was trying out really low, but the bar-end part is fairly wide and my knees had to learn to stay away from it. If you run it at a more typical height this won't be an issue.
- Brakes: If you don't feel you need them, you don't need them (at least not yet).
- Seat post/clamp: I like the aluminum post. Buying both give you a backup, or a choice of a long and a short one. This can be necessary if you go from MUni riding with long cranks and low seat to road riding with short cranks and high seat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eroick
Oh, make sure you get the freeride saddle. It's far better than the Velo saddle that comes with the coker.
Today's Cokers come with a Coker-branded Velo (KH) saddle. A huge improvement over the old Viscount! I like that seat just fine. The KH Freeride has not been my favorite. So far the best one for me is the Nimbus Gel. But it depends on the type of riding you're doing.
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