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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 26
Posts: 1,148
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CF Base Drilling?
I just got a CF base from UDC. I need to drill the holes. What is the best way to drill them?
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"I used to eat erasers in grade school...." James_Potter come to my gallery. I'm on my space now too |
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#2 |
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Most of the level 3 stuff now
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona
Age: 58
Posts: 970
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With a drill?
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'I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different' - Kurt Vonnegut |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 24
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are there premarked holes on the carbon fiber base for drilling? I plan on getting one soon since my seat flexs way to much
Last edited by maflitto; 2006-04-13 at 05:28 PM. |
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#4 |
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Dropped
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southern California, USA
Age: 31
Posts: 613
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Link to john_childs' instructions on how to drill out a carbon fiber (cf) base.
john_childs wrote a very good post about this, but it took me a while to find it originally:
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...13&postcount=3 That's what I used to figure out how to best drill my CF base, and it came out quite well. Last edited by entropy; 2006-04-13 at 05:58 PM. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,181
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also, scroll all the way down the page.
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 26
Posts: 1,148
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Is there a way to put the nuts on the inside and have the bolts go from the bottom up into the seat?
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"I used to eat erasers in grade school...." James_Potter come to my gallery. I'm on my space now too |
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#7 | |
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is what it is
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: hella Nor Cal
Age: 35
Posts: 6,557
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Quote:
![]() If you find one of these you just need to drill a hole large enough for the threaded collar to go through, then epoxy the flange to the top of the seat base (where the seat foam will sit). You'll need to ensure your epoxy job is spot-on (the surfaces mate perfectly with each other, are prepped and cleaned, the epoxy does not have bubbles, etc.) otherwise you could torque them right off when tightening the screws. The larger the flange you can find, the better off you'll be.
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#8 | |
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Dropped
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Southern California, USA
Age: 31
Posts: 613
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Quote:
You could loosely follow these directions from George Barnes, and just install all the nuts & bolts upside-down: http://www.gb4mfg.com/gb4/air_seat.pdf Keep in mind that if it isn't securely fastened and something comes loose, you may have to remove the bumper, handle, seatcover and pad in order to re-tighten the base bolts / nuts. |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 26
Posts: 1,148
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Quote:
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"I used to eat erasers in grade school...." James_Potter come to my gallery. I'm on my space now too |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 26
Posts: 1,148
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Quote:
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"I used to eat erasers in grade school...." James_Potter come to my gallery. I'm on my space now too |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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You can get rivnuts which are threaded tubes which are deformed to hold themselves in place with a rivnut gun, ive used them exstensively on fibreglass and they're pretty good, tricky to get hold of tho.
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#12 | |
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Guinness Mojo
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Portland, Oregon USA
Posts: 12,420
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Quote:
The T-nut thing might be good if you're using a foam seat. I don't think it would be good for an air seat because the nut and bolt will stick up into the inside of the seat and that would be bad for the tube. I haven't tried the T-nut option. The advantage is that it would be lighter than the carriage bolt option (carriage bolts are heavy).
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#13 |
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unity - as 1 stand together
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Alot of good stuff being said...
Heres one more thing to keep in mind: the little dots/indentations that are on the cf base when you get it that are kind of the suggested places to drill the holes can be wrong. Just ignore those are measure where to drill the holes. Take your time. Thats it.
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