Anyone try a Torker giraffe yet? why so cheap?

[U-Turn]

Originally posted by cyberbellum

What is a side ride? I did a google search and found only that it was a level 10 skill. No description.

I don't know any web vids, but you can see it in OWNL and on Unizaba. It's basically having your whole body on one side of the unicycle, facing forwards. You pedal with the foot nearest the uni and support your weight with your hands on the seat. The other leg flies around in the air keeping your balance. I can't do it... yet....

I agree with Mark. Perhaps the standard track hub locking ring is not the perfect approach, but it should be possible to redo the wheel without a grinding machine, but still maintain a secure attachment. It also should be possible to continue to leech off the bicycling world and use a standard track hub; perhaps we need to come up with our own locking mechanism.

[john_childs]

Originally posted by cyberbellum

What is a side ride? I did a google search and found only that it was a level 10 skill. No description.

There aren't very many online photos or videos of the side ride. Klaas has a short QuickTime video of Sem Abrahams doing a side ride. Klaas' Sem videos

Now imagine doing that on a 6' giraffe and transitioning in and out of the side ride. It's amazing. And Dustin makes it look so smooth. The side ride is the main skill, but it's the transition in and out of it that is the really impressive part.

[UniBrier]

Back to the original question about the quality of the Torker Giraffe.

I took another look at two assembled unis. Both had a definite "loose" and "tight" spot in the chain as the crank does a full revolution. It appears the lower cog is slightly off center, probably less than 1 mm. It is not uncommon to have somewhat of a tight spot but I found this greater than other giraffes. The chains weren't tensioned very much so there was quite a bit of slack at the loose spot.

Also, at the bottom of the frame, where the frame legs are pinched down by axle, a separate piece of metal is welded into the frame. You can see it in the profile pic and lower bracket pic . On other giraffes I have seen (Schwinn, TUF, Matthews, Savage) the entire lower frame leg is pinched flat and a groove is cut for the axle like on the Schwinn here. This may not be a bad thing, but it is different than most other giraffe designs.

My opinion so far is the Torker is a medium quality giraffe. Probably fine for light riders but before I would put someone big on it or consider it heavy duty I would want to know more about the sprocket attachment and how the stamped steel componets are going to hold up.

Maybe Uni.com can take one of the sprockets apart when their shipment comes in and give us a report for the good of the order.

[kington99]

Originally Posted by UniBrier

My opinion so far is the Torker is a medium quality giraffe. Probably fine for light riders but before I would put someone big on it or consider it heavy duty I would want to know more about the sprocket attachment and how the stamped steel componets are going to hold up.

I'm pretty big and I have yet to bend mine. Only trouble I've had is the sprocket coming loose on the wheel but this can be easily fixed. Start to mess around on them and you will bend the frame and the wheel axle fairly easily, as a much lighter friend of mine can attest.

[johnfoss]

That's too bad if Torker is still using a screw-on cog that can unscrew. As Kington mentioned, you often get a warning when this is starting to happen when you feel some slip. If you stop riding immediately you won't get hurt. If you're not paying attention, or otherwise occupied such as being in the middle of a show, it can fail the rest of the way with possible bone breakage.

This seems like a good thread to add this:
I think a screw-on cog can work fine with a little modification. All it needs is a notch or something other than a round hole where it attaches. If there are a few bumps or keyways in the cog/hub interface, a lockring should hold it on just fine and it should never slip. Just check the lockring from time to time for tightness. I would still use Loctite on it to be sure, though maybe not the hard-to-break red kind.

[feel the light]

I was talking to my friend Bounce a few months ago, he was one of the more successful juggler-uni performers in the 70's-90's on Key West Pier.

I was riding by on my 36 and we started talking, and he lead me back to a shed, and showed me a 42" uni with an air tire he bought when his troupe was touring in Japan a long time ago.

I asked if he had been riding much lately, and he said no, not since his accident. He asked if I had heard about it, and pointed to the scars under both knees. Kinda embarrassed, I admitted I didn't know about it, and sort of tried to change the subject. But not before Bounce told me how he got the scars.

He was doing a show on a Semcycle giraffe when the bottom sprocket came loose suddenly, causing him to land on both knees with such force that he could not walk for a long time, and needed surgery on both knees. He is still kinda crabby and pissed off about it.

Given the advice of the smart J's ^ , and Bounce's misfortune, I have decided not to buy this type of giraffe myself.

What about the dual chain Nimbus ? Does it have a different design ? Besides the weight and $ , what else sucks about 2 chains ? Am I correct in thinking 2 chains is safer ?

[johnfoss]

I know Bounce, he came to one of the big unicycle meets back in the 80s, possibly 1983 in Syracuse (USA Nationals). Also at the IJA Festival that year. He had a very cool zig-zag giraffe which I believe had a double chain that also zig-zagged along with the frame, making it very visual.

Too bad about his nasty giraffe accident. A reminder to all you giraffe riders out there (any brand) -- make sure your lockrings and/or other chain parts are tight!

Double-chain giraffes:
- Cool to look at; a professional and more interesting appearance.
- A little more weight, but weight is mostly not an issue on giraffes.
- Possible trouble keeping both chains tight due to possibly slightly off-centered cogs and/or uneven chain wear
- "Backup" like a RAID 1 hard drive; one chain's still there if the other one breaks. Not only that, both are less likely to break because they have less strain on them.
- Chain grease will get on you and your car more than with one chain

I haven't owned a dual-chain giraffe myself, but I like the way they look. The chain tightening thing is probably a very minor issue unless one cog is well off center. Your chain is far, far less likely to snap, but as to whether it can come lose as described above will depend on the specific build of the unicycle.

Something I believe I was told about the Semcycle giraffes many years ago (may not be accurate). I think I was told that they were built to be double-chain giraffes, and those were the top-of-the-line ones. But they were also available with a single chain for people on a budget. However The single-chain version may have had a potential for loosening (like many other giraffes) that was not present with the dual-chain ones.

[kington99]

Originally Posted by feel the light

What about the dual chain Nimbus ? Does it have a different design ? Besides the weight and $ , what else sucks about 2 chains ? Am I correct in thinking 2 chains is safer ?

Nimbus has nice chunky bolts through both chain wheels, no chance of slipping. 2 chains is theoretically safer in that if you snap a chain you don't fall off, but the chance of snapping a chain on a giraffe is minute so it really makes no difference in that respect.

[cyberbellum]

Originally posted by UniBrier

Also, at the bottom of the frame, where the frame legs are pinched down by axle, a separate piece of metal is welded into the frame ... On other giraffes I have seen (Schwinn, TUF, Matthews, Savage) the entire lower frame leg is pinched flat and a groove is cut for the axle.

Now I understand the need for a chain tensioner.

Track bikes don't use these things because at the end of the stays there is a honking big slab of metal for the track nuts to bite into - it's usualy a slab of steel about an 1/8" thick. Those presed stay ends look really flimsy to me. I doubt they would survive the kind of tightening a track bike regularly endures.