New Park Crank Arm Puller

[daino149]

I was surfing the Park Tool website when I happened upon this CWP-6 crank arm puller. I was wondering if any of you have one or have used one. I am looking for a new puller. Currently I have the CCP-2 Crank Puller It works great, but I don't like the fact that I have to remove the pedals everytime I want to swap cranks.

Is there a big difference between this and the CPW-5 Crank Wrench and Puller?

Thanks,
Daniel

[joemarshall]

the difference is that the new one has the extra bit so it can remove shimano and isis splined cranks. Which is not much use for unicycles (unless it also works for unicycle splined cranks?)

Joe

[nickjb]

the ..6 has a 8mm allen key for removing crank bolts the ..5 has a 14mm socket. the 14mm socket would be more useful to unicyclist.

the rotating tips are designed to sit in the axle stub . Most pullers are designed for axles with bolts but as unicycles have nuts (ususally) then you need extra clearance. The little sticky out bit needs to retract right into the larger threaded bit. Best to try it out first if you can.

How about 'adjusting' your current puller with a hacksaw. You should still have enough leverage

[Mojoe]

Originally posted by nickjb


How about 'adjusting' your current puller with a hacksaw.

That's what I did with mine. It worked fine when I was a bicycler with long cranks, but it was not good for unicycling.

I sawed off the handle and welded on an old, worn out 9/19", 3/8 inch drive socket. It works great now and I can use the same 3/8 inch drive breaker bar that I use on my crank nuts.


Joe

[nbrazzi]

I had my Pop cut off about 1/3 of the handle of the CCP-2 and then use a grinder to smooth out the edges so it doesn't cut through my hands. He's got all the neat tools. Now it completely rotates without hitting the peddles. The drawback is, I have noticeably less torque available when trying to use the tool. It just makes that part a little harder.