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Old 2018-09-17, 02:15 PM   #1
gwymer
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Tightening your bearing bolts?

Recently, I helped a new unicyclist order their first non-beginner unicycle. They don't live near me, so they will have to assemble it themselves, or pay some bike shop a crazy amount to do it for them. It got me thinking about the first one I assembled. It was a while ago-it was a Torker 24. When I got to the bearings, it said to "tighten the bolts to 45 inch pounds". I just froze there. How in the world was I supposed to know what 45 inch pounds was? So, I asked a friend. He said that all his fancy tools measured in newton meters or ft/lbs. I figured since they were bearings and the whole thing revolved around them (quite literally), it had to be pretty important. So, I sat several days trying to figure out what to do, so I wouldn't mess up my new purchase. I finally got the advise to just tighten them loosely and try it.

Over the years, this same question has purplexed me.

Nimbus says, "Do not over tighten; they only need to be tight
enough to hold the wheel in place without it rattling. The wheel should spin easily; if it does not, loosen the bolts until it does.
"

Kris Holm says, "tighten the bolts with slight hand pressure. To test whether the bearing housing bolts are too tight, give the wheel a spin. The wheel should spin freely. If it does not turn perfectly freely, the bearing housings are too tight, and should be loosened slightly. Overly tight bearing housings will damage the bearings, and will not be covered by warranty."

I have worn out bearings and had bearings that ended up clicking. So I am extra sensitive to what is the exact right amount of pressure to tighten. I don't want too tight to bind the bearings, and I don't want too loose to have them wiggling around. ...and I don't want "will not be covered by warranty."

One friend said that he uses the short end of his allen wrench and tightens till it is tough with that end. Another person said that they tighten it pretty good and then spin the wheel and loosen just to the point of free movement. One person told me they go on the looser side but use some locktite on the bolts to keep them from loosing further. QX and a few other companies still put neoprene nuts on the other end to help insure that the bolts don't loosen themselves over time.

How would you advise a new person to the sport on how they should properly assemble their bearings???
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Old 2018-09-17, 04:27 PM   #2
lowerstackmac
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Torque wrenches also come in inch pounds. They are physically smaller than the foot pound type. If you can’t find someone that owns one, 45 inch pounds is less than four foot pounds. I‘d guess, just take it past snug.
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Old 2018-09-17, 04:37 PM   #3
gwymer
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True, true. Most of us aren't planning on investing in one though-not a lot of other uses to justify the expense.

I do like the phrase "just past snug"!

How often do you check yours to see if they have loosened any? Or do you use loctite, or do you have one of the brands with the neoprene nuts?

Just some follow up questions to help the new ones to the sport....

Most everything else on the uni is pretty forgiving and can err either way without too much of an issue. The bearings are pretty critical and precise.
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Old 2018-09-17, 05:00 PM   #4
lowerstackmac
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I’m brand new at the uni game. I got my new 26” Nimbus in early August. I did not know about the 45” lb. recommendation. As you stated the Nimbus instructions said ‘not too tight’. Well that certainly leaves a lot of room for error for a ham fisted guy like me. I snugged mine down to what I thought wasn’t too tight. I think I will set my inch pound torque wrench to 45 inch pounds and see if I get a click. I’m pretty sure I’ve passed that torque. If so I’ll back the bolts off and reset them.
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Old 2018-09-17, 05:10 PM   #5
gwymer
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Let us know how "just past snug" compares to what the torque wrench reads.

I am curious.

Thanks for sharing!!
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Old 2018-09-17, 08:56 PM   #6
LanceB
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Sometimes cheap is good, if you only use it once in a while. I have one of these Harbor Freight torque wrenches, and it works OK, as far as I can tell (I've never tried to "calibrate" it, there's no real method supplied for doing that). I mainly use it for the small hardware on my Schlumpf hub.
Apologies to those in other countries who may not have access to this particular vendor. Harbor Freight is known for cheap Chinese tools, but sometimes they get decent stuff.
BTW, I don't use the torque wrench on my bearing caps, I just put a drop of blue Loctite on the bolts (clean them first!), tighten until they are tight, then loosen up just enough so the wheel spins easily. Never had any problems.
(4 inch-pounds is equivalent to 3.37 foot-pounds.)
Good luck!
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Old 2018-09-17, 09:17 PM   #7
lowerstackmac
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LanceB 4 inch pounds is 1/3 of a foot pound. Anyhow, gwymer, I loosened off my bearing caps and tightened the bolts back down with my allen key holding the short end in my fingers. I tightened it as much as I could. I then torqued it to 45” lbs. it turned the bolt less than 1/4 turn. Your friend that does it by holding the short end of the allen key is pretty darn close. Good tip.
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Old 2018-09-17, 09:39 PM   #8
lowerstackmac
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LanceB, that is a great price for a click type torque wrench. We have an equivalent store up here called Princess Auto. They also sell the cheap Chinese tools, probably from the same supplier with a different name put on them. If you only use the tool once in a long while they are the way to go.
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Old 2018-09-17, 11:34 PM   #9
lightbulbjim
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The bearings can seat themselves in the holders over time too. When I reinstall a wheel I take the bolts to "just past snug" and they're generally fine to begin with. Often after some heavy braking I'll end up with a tiny bit of noise and movement and I snug them up a tiny bit more.

I find it usually takes 3-4 rides after a wheel install for the bearings to fully seat. It's especially noticeable on my 36er.
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Old 2018-09-18, 02:20 PM   #10
gwymer
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Great Help

GREAT input into this topic!!

Love the suggestions and the comparisons.

I know that new people to the sport will be thankful for the insight and help.

Anyone else out there have thoughts or things they have found helpful??
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Old 2018-09-19, 10:15 PM   #11
MrImpossible
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You want some preload (i.e. extra tightness) on your bearings, because when you ride seated, your weight pushes the top bearing cap into the bearing - which pushes the bottom cap away from the bearing. If there isn't some preload the bearing will be loose when riding.

(Also the other way around, when you are standing and pulling up on the handle - the bearing is driven into the bottom cap, and would come loose on the top side).

Anyway "just past snug" sounds like a decent guess. It should definitely be more than just hand tight, and more than just enough to keep the wheel from rattling around when unloaded.

I always use blue loctite.
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