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Old 2012-02-06, 07:53 PM   #1
Daytripper63
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Foss 36 tube question

Why cant the Foss 36 tube be used in a drilled 36 rim?
and if it is true that it can not be used can you use a 29er tube in a drilled 36 rim.
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Old 2012-02-07, 01:39 AM   #2
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I have a Foss (no relation) tube in a drilled 36" rim. It's the loaner wheel Bronson gave me while I await something from Schlumpf. The stuff bulging in the holes looks like tube color, but I imagine he's got a layer of something in between. It doesn't bulge as far as the inner surface of the rim. I'd ask Bronson for details (silvacycles.com).

BTW, the combination of that tube with the drilled rim is a noticeable difference in rotating mass when riding. I'll be sorry to go back to what came with my uni.......if that ever happens.
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Old 2012-02-07, 04:09 AM   #3
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I *think* the Foss tubes have more plastic deformation than conventional tubes and may get a bit lumpy after extended use in a drilled rim with a bulging rim strip. I can't see it being an issue if you use a non-stretch rim strip (fibre tape works great)

I have one in my 36er but my rim is drilled only on the outer surface.
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Old 2012-02-08, 12:50 AM   #4
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I had a Foss tube in a drilled rim with the stock green rim tape and multiple tubes failed around there edge of a hole. I think the combination of pressure against the relatively sharp edge of the hole and the thinner tube is what produces the failure. I did use a 29er tube in the same rim, but it also failed in the same manner, however it lasted a while longer than the Foss tubes did (never more than 2 rides). I think that Eric's idea of using fibre tape could work well but could also add a bit of weight. The expensive solution is to get the Stealth2 rim because it is both stronger and lighter than the Impulse drilled rim, however it does not have the holes, so it works great with the Foss tube.

Also, unlike Bronson's wheel that John is using, the Foss tube in my rim bulged past the second wall of the rim.

Last edited by scotthue; 2012-02-08 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 2012-02-08, 02:15 PM   #5
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What do you guys mean by a 'drilled' 36" rim? Is that a Stealth rim you've custom drilled, or is there a special drilled rim I don't know about?

I have a Stealth Pro rim, but will probably upgrade to a Stealth II rim because tyres are just about impossible to remove from the original stealth rims.

Last edited by GizmoDuck; 2012-02-08 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 2012-02-08, 02:39 PM   #6
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The nimbus impulse rim.
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Old 2012-02-08, 08:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotthue View Post
The nimbus impulse rim.
Impulse is not a rim name but related to disc brake model, all Nimbus 36" rims are stealth

original one, named Stealth, and very difficult to remove the tyre as said by Gizmoduck, 38mm, .....

they were some Stealth rims drilled but I cannot find pictures anymore ! according to my memory they were just drilled on the outside

current rim is Stealth2, 40mm, new profile to make easier the tyre fiting

Roger may explain in details
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Old 2012-02-08, 08:53 PM   #8
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The only Stealth 2 rim with holes is mine. :-)

It was an experiment to see the effect of putting holes in the rim. It gave only a marginal saving in weight, weakend the rim, doubled the cost and caused more potential problems with the inner tube.

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Old 2012-02-08, 09:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouin-bouin View Post
Impulse is not a rim name but related to disc brake model, all Nimbus 36" rims are stealth
In the US, Unicycle.com sold the drilled rim from the Impulse unicycle separately and listed it as the Nimbus Impulse rim (though it still said Nimbus Stealth on the rim itself). This was before the Stealth2 rim was announced. I considered buying one of the Impulse rims when building up my 36" last year and I know mountainuni1 did buy one and is riding it currently.
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Old 2012-02-08, 09:18 PM   #10
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Exactly. I own all three model. Stealth, impulse (drilled stealth), and Stealth2. I am considering drilling the stealth2 (just on the inside, by expanding the spoke holes). Roger, what do you think? Would it make the rim too weak for 36er muni? (For a 60kg rider...) It's not worth the weight savings if I can't use the Foss tube in the drilled version however...
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Old 2012-02-08, 09:25 PM   #11
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I don't think it is worth it. The rim is amazingly strong so it can take it.

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Old 2012-02-09, 12:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotthue View Post
Exactly. I own all three model. Stealth, impulse (drilled stealth), and Stealth2. I am considering drilling the stealth2 (just on the inside, by expanding the spoke holes). Roger, what do you think? Would it make the rim too weak for 36er muni? (For a 60kg rider...) It's not worth the weight savings if I can't use the Foss tube in the drilled version however...
If drill the rim, be sure to use a full bottle of green slime to protect against flats.



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Old 2012-02-09, 04:31 AM   #13
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What is this mysterious green slime? And do I put it inside the tube to fill leaks, or around the drilled holes to lube them up and make them less sharp?

Last edited by scotthue; 2012-02-09 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 2012-02-10, 12:54 AM   #14
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I find stans tubeless sealant works better than slime; plus you need less stans, so less weight. If I have a finicky tube that gets flats often I put a few ounces of stans in and the flats stop.
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Old 2012-03-20, 10:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotthue View Post
I had a Foss tube in a drilled rim with the stock green rim tape and multiple tubes failed around there edge of a hole. I think the combination of pressure against the relatively sharp edge of the hole and the thinner tube is what produces the failure. I did use a 29er tube in the same rim, but it also failed in the same manner, however it lasted a while longer than the Foss tubes did (never more than 2 rides). I think that Eric's idea of using fibre tape could work well but could also add a bit of weight. The expensive solution is to get the Stealth2 rim because it is both stronger and lighter than the Impulse drilled rim, however it does not have the holes, so it works great with the Foss tube.

Also, unlike Bronson's wheel that John is using, the Foss tube in my rim bulged past the second wall of the rim.
Before UDC added the "Not recommended for rims with cutouts/holes" note on their website, I had purchased a FOSS 36" clear tube with the intention of putting it on my first run (with the drilled Stealth1 rim) Impulse. The original "commuter" (heavy) tube was bulging out of a couple of the holes pretty bad. The tube ended up being a defect (UDC refunded in full, of course) that was fused together in spots so my LBS put the heavier tube back in and replaced the Green Rim Strip tape with duct tape. I've put over 1k miles on it since then and it seems to be holding up fine (no bulges). It does not leak air like the FOSS tube in King's Stealth2 which seems to like to revert back to 40psi whereas the heavy tube in my Impulse is holding tight at right around 60psi. I'm probably taking a hit on rotational weight (the most important kind) with the heavy tube and duct tape on the Impulse. But, if it ain't broke...



I was thinking about picking up a $6 Green Rim Strip (see picture below) on my next UDC order just to get the color theme back. I guess I will abandon the FOSS tube (based on your recommendation) for that wheel. I'm not going to build up another wheel (funny how the un-drilled Stealth2 rim is lighter than my drilled Stealth1) for my back-up/loaner to be just a "little" lighter.

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