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Old 2010-06-12, 08:27 AM   #31
Sponge
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Could someone please measure the distance between the ends of the flanges on the Profile hub please? and if possible, measure how wide the axle is?

Thanks!
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Old 2010-06-12, 05:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sponge View Post
Could someone please measure the distance between the ends of the flanges on the Profile hub please? and if possible, measure how wide the axle is?

Thanks!
So, like this and that or this way?

Dark grey: Hub Flange
Light Grey + Black = Bearing
Black = Axle
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Old 2010-06-12, 05:38 PM   #33
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The length of the spindle overall, I already know the diameter as 19mm.

And the flange width from end to end please! So the blue and red lines basically

Thanks a bunch emile!

Last edited by Sponge; 2010-06-12 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 2010-06-12, 05:39 PM   #34
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emile where do you get your 24h rims?
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Old 2010-06-12, 06:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sponge View Post
The length of the spindle overall, I already know the diameter as 19mm.

And the flange width from end to end please! So the blue and red lines basically

Thanks a bunch emile!
I'll tell Hugo about this, he got his profile hub back from me.
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Old 2010-06-14, 02:14 AM   #36
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I can only tell you the blue measurement, because the cranks are still on the hub and we can't pull them off. Outside to outside is 71 mm, inside to inside is 64 mm.

Hope this can help.

Hugo
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Old 2010-06-14, 08:17 PM   #37
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Cheers! Very helpful! If someone can get the spindle overall width, that'd be sick!
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Old 2018-11-11, 05:13 AM   #38
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Shortening Profile cranks

Even though Profile cranks on unicycles are not very common now this old thread is relevant to me. I recently picked up a 24” uni with 170mm Profile cranks. Back in the day longer cranks seemed to be popular but for me they were way too long. Based on this thread and my search, shorter Profile cranks are not common. Someone had found that 125mm Profile cranks were available but there was a rider weight limit of 70 lbs (32kg) and the cost was over $400. That was not acceptable and even if they were available at a normal weight limit and reasonable cost I decided to modify my existing 170mm cranks. This uni has brakes and for my type of riding I decided to go with 125mm cranks. My cranks are steel and I cut a 45mm section out and welded them back together. They seem to work very well. I’ve done jump mounts, hopped as vigorously as I can and rode up and down the steepest hill I can with no problems.






Back in service.

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Old 2018-11-11, 04:38 PM   #39
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shorten the crank.

Gosh Jim, I hope you put a short piece of small diameter tube inside and welded the pieces to that for strength of material instead of the weld.
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Old 2018-11-11, 09:52 PM   #40
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Gosh Jim, I hope you put a short piece of small diameter tube inside and welded the pieces to that for strength of material instead of the weld.
It should be no different from a pipe weld, right? ie plenty strong enough as long as there's penetration to the root of the joint. Speaking as a muggle here so I may be off the mark.

I would probably put a piece inside too, but more to aid alignment. Although it looks like the crank is tapered so an insert may not work.
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Old 2018-11-11, 10:44 PM   #41
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Yes, I did actually use a small section of the piece I cut out to aid in alignment, prevent burn through and assure full weld penetration of the main tube. With the crank tube taper the alignment is not perfect but with the small insert I likely got a solid weld. The location of the weld helps too. The bending moment on the crank arm is maximum right at the hub and the twisting stress on the crank arm is highest where the arm is smallest right at the pedal.

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Old 2018-11-12, 12:12 AM   #42
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The joint

Good job Jim, I shouldn't have doubted, but some look at these postings as instruction.
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