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Old 2012-04-24, 04:18 PM   #76
Feisty
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Originally Posted by Smilymarco View Post
I think my tube is a lot heavier than that... may try the one you're using the next time i change my tire or get a flat

Antoher little update on my uni: Now using the Nimbus D-brake adapter (prior was the MountainUni).
The MU-adapter was a bit "overbuild" and the brake rubbed all the time, the d-brake adapter is slimmer and now it works perfect

Also i wanted to change to the Nimbus oracle frame... but with my custom hub it didnt work The screws of the disc rubbed on the inside of the bearingholder... and i didnt want to grind a new frame down...
I have always run lightish conti tubes with removable cores so I can self slim them (oo er) and they serve me well.

I did look at the Oracle frame which is lighter than the KH26 but I just don't like rounded forks they just look to "circus Uni" for me, I manly squarer crown is a must1
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Old 2012-04-24, 09:01 PM   #77
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A lighter tube can do wonders.
I changed the heavy Duro tube for a lighter (about 2/3 the weight) tube which really does improve handling.

Greetings

Dru

P.S.:Pedals can save a lot of weight as well.
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Old 2012-04-25, 02:30 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by Byc View Post
A lighter tube can do wonders.
I changed the heavy Duro tube for a lighter (about 2/3 the weight) tube which really does improve handling.

Greetings

Dru

P.S.:Pedals can save a lot of weight as well.
There has been lots of interesting posts how heavy DH tubes with thick rubber walls have been used to sure up the thin tyre sidewalls to good effect, so there is probably a balance between the two things.

As for pedals I have some Wellgo B25s which are about 550g so I am trying out some Nuke Proof Electron pedals which are about 200g lighter and a lot lower profile which will be a bonus as I am getting lots ore pedal tipping now I am pushing myself harder and faster.

Other than the saddle I am probably at the limit of weight loss, If that is all I cared about I wouldn't have that heavy Disc hub and brake on there

Oh and my final parcel was finally shipped today for delivery tomorrow YAY, construction will start tomorrow night with picture galore

Last edited by Feisty; 2012-04-25 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 2012-04-25, 02:51 PM   #79
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Take your time for the build, sheldons tutorial is very good, watch out for the valve hole and maybe take another wheel to look at to the side... so you can see and compare if your lacing is ok or not
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Old 2012-04-25, 04:00 PM   #80
Feisty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smilymarco View Post
Take your time for the build, sheldons tutorial is very good, watch out for the valve hole and maybe take another wheel to look at to the side... so you can see and compare if your lacing is ok or not
Thanks for the advice I have read sheldon's guide multiple times and a few others, I did engineering before programming so I have a good mind for this sort of thing, my rim label will be the correct way around my valve hole next to the key trailing spoke with the hub logo visible through it

I did go with standard plated brass nipples rather than some bling Ali ones like on my bike as with my noobness I didn't want to have to worry about rounding off nipples

I have trued my own wheels for decades so I am sure it will be fine and fun I will be studying my 24" wheel as I go though lol

Did you find any issues specific with the dishing for the disc hub?
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Old 2012-04-25, 07:38 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Feisty View Post
I am keen to try a KH Slim or Impact Naomi seat as I find the Freeride too big and chaffy (my bike saddle is a 135g razorblade of a saddle) that should shed another 100 ish grams.
Yeah - me too (though I currently have a Nimbus Gel, which I think is even more of a sofa). I'd still prefer something narrower as well as slimmer though. Have you ridden your bike recently - when I've got back on mine I find the saddle really does feel very narrow and hard!

I'm looking on with interest, as I'd like to build something very similar - though I actually prefer the Oracle frame to the KH (it being lighter is a bonus), and suspect I might try reusing one of the weenie Formula B4SL brakes I've retired from my MTB (I have one in IS mount, which kind of makes my arguments about that moot ). Would also like to get a KH rim - will take the weight hit, as I've been persuaded by the arguments about how it helps with the tyre profile (though if I could get a Flow rim in 36h, or an Oracle hub in 32h I might be tempted to go all weight weenie).

Then again I should probably wait until I have a proper job - I don't suppose my 9 hours of contract work this week will cover it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feisty View Post
I did go with standard plated brass nipples rather than some bling Ali ones like on my bike as with my noobness I didn't want to have to worry about rounding off nipples
Good plan - I've built lots of wheels, including some very light ones with alu nipples - but for normal wheels I'd still use brass nipples, and would (will) definitely build a uni wheel with them. Alu nipples just aren't worth the hassle unless you're into saving every last gram (which is kind of the case with the MTB those wheels are on - a full-sus weighing less than 10kg).

As for pedals, I'm still using Twisted PC pedals on my muni - haven't had any issues with slipping on them, and they're undoubtedly lighter than anything metal - the bonus being that they're very cheap!

Last edited by aracer; 2012-04-25 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 2012-04-25, 08:35 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aracer View Post
Yeah - me too (though I currently have a Nimbus Gel, which I think is even more of a sofa). I'd still prefer something narrower as well as slimmer though. Have you ridden your bike recently - when I've got back on mine I find the saddle really does feel very narrow and hard!

I'm looking on with interest, as I'd like to build something very similar - though I actually prefer the Oracle frame to the KH (it being lighter is a bonus), and suspect I might try reusing one of the weenie Formula B4SL brakes I've retired from my MTB (I have one in IS mount, which kind of makes my arguments about that moot ). Would also like to get a KH rim - will take the weight hit, as I've been persuaded by the arguments about how it helps with the tyre profile (though if I could get a Flow rim in 36h, or an Oracle hub in 32h I might be tempted to go all weight weenie).

Then again I should probably wait until I have a proper job - I don't suppose my 9 hours of contract work this week will cover it!


Good plan - I've built lots of wheels, including some very light ones with alu nipples - but for normal wheels I'd still use brass nipples, and would (will) definitely build a uni wheel with them. Alu nipples just aren't worth the hassle unless you're into saving every last gram (which is kind of the case with the MTB those wheels are on - a full-sus weighing less than 10kg).

As for pedals, I'm still using Twisted PC pedals on my muni - haven't had any issues with slipping on them, and they're undoubtedly lighter than anything metal - the bonus being that they're very cheap!
I am all for light but what I feel is acceptable on my bike wheels isn't for my Uni DT Revolution spokes and Ali nips save such a small amount of weight it isn't worth it.

10kg pah my rigid ss was 6.8 kg (15lbs) before I stuck a carbon lefty on it and a some beefier cranks and tyres (about 8 kg /17.5 lb after that) My Mrs is under the illusion that is her bike now whatever love lol

Seriously good feat for a full boing, I helped my mate get his Scott Spark down to 9.3 kg / 20.5 lbs

After being used to bikes of that weight my 7 kg Uni seems like a boat anchor I am hoping the larger wheels (about 7% increase in development) added difficulty on the hills will more than be off set by about a kilo of outer wheel weight loss making it a better hill climber over all. A bit more pace on the flat will be nice as well.

I think I might take a punt on the HK slim saddle the Impact Naomi looks very thin indeed, I am just finding the foam on the freeride is squashing out and making the seat wider and chaffing my inner thigh and pinching the skin in the leg groin (leg pit? ) area.

Roll on tomorrow, I am a like a kid before Christmas
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Old 2012-04-25, 09:33 PM   #83
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I am hoping the larger wheels (about 7% increase in development) added difficulty on the hills will more than be off set by about a kilo of outer wheel weight loss making it a better hill climber over all. A bit more pace on the flat will be nice as well.
You're currently using a 3" tyre and planning on a 2.4? Difference will only be ~3% (the same difference as going from a 2" tyre to the 2.4). I doubt it will be the most significant difference - I reckon I go faster with the Fat Albert 2.4 than the Duro 3", and the difference in hill climbing is more than can be put down to the slightly lower gear.
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Old 2012-04-26, 06:16 AM   #84
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You're currently using a 3" tyre and planning on a 2.4? Difference will only be ~3% (the same difference as going from a 2" tyre to the 2.4). I doubt it will be the most significant difference - I reckon I go faster with the Fat Albert 2.4 than the Duro 3", and the difference in hill climbing is more than can be put down to the slightly lower gear.
The 2.4 Rubber Queen is BIG it doesn't fit in the old KH26 frame like the 26x3" tyres and needs the extra room KH26 I measured my 24x3" Duro and using some measurements of the 2.4 Rubber Queen I found online worked out the circumfrance / development was about 7% (could be wrong depending on the Rubber Queen sizes I founf). Thats why people like the 2.4 Rubber Queen is it is very big for a 2.4 with a lot of height not just width yet is stilll 850g in folding form

The lighter weight at the wheel edge was massively noticable on my MTB when I was running 370g 2.1 Schwalbe Rocket Rons (paper thin and only lasted me 6 months) and 86g inner tubes, that jsut accelerated and flew up hills.

The Duro is awesome but a monster to spin up and maintain going up hills, get some mud on it and you almost stop with an extra pound of mud glued to it

This new Uni is going to be such a different beast, I am very excited to feel how different it is to ride
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Old 2012-04-26, 10:07 AM   #85
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I had no problems with the dished wheel, i trued it inside my frame and it just works
It was my 7th wheelbuild ever, first dished.
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Old 2012-04-26, 02:55 PM   #86
Feisty
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This is my first scratch built wheel!

Remaining parts (not the disc adapter on the calliper already! Id did ask them if it came with one that can go back, free returns now)

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Panicked at one point until I realised Chain Reaction kindly gave me an extra few spokes and nips

First right trailing spokes

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then the left

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then all the leading spokes and how it looks now pre tensioning/truing (have to do dinner bah!)

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Sheldon would be proud a nice hub label directly opposite the valve hole

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Will post more pics later when I start truing, I am impressed even now it is very round and centred so the spoke length must be good

Last edited by Feisty; 2012-04-26 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 2012-04-26, 03:56 PM   #87
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Nice work Feisty, I enjoy building wheels too...the satisfaction when it spins perfectly true gives me a real buzz.
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Old 2012-04-26, 04:26 PM   #88
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Looking good!
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Old 2012-04-26, 05:25 PM   #89
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Looking good!
Cheers

I have wound all the nipples in to an equal point on the last visible thread so everything is equal and gave a bit of a push on the outer spokes at the flange to improve the angel of the trailing spokes. I also have fitted disc and bearing and popped it in the frame

Once the kids are in bed I will start the truing, it needs dishing a fair bit as it is about 10mm off centre at the moment but is vertically very close bar one slight hop, laterally it is within 3mm
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Old 2012-04-26, 06:02 PM   #90
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@ Feisty: Your 24" is the old style crown that was prone to cracking, so the new ones are improved.

So, you're going to build your first wheel ever and it's going to be with the new Nimbus disc hub, hmmmm.

Can I suggest something without making you mad?

Don't do it yourself. It's not that building a dished wheel is hard, the problem is that the spacing between the flanges is very, very narrow, even in contrast to a bike hub, so your disc side spokes will be tensioned very high and this makes it harder to build the wheel because the "margin for error" is not as wide.

I'm not saying you can't do it, but you may get very frustrated with this build, esp since it's your first. A symetrical build would be a great first wheel build.

If you really want to build it yourself, go and talk to a wheel builder at your LBS and get some tips on building, esp pre-flexing spokes to improve set in, using spoke prep and spoke lock.

Edit: Ah, I see you already built it. Well, it's not too late to add thread lock. FYI, the round is normal until you start tensioning, that's when things get wild and your spoke tension will pull the rim crooked.

After getting the initial tension and true, consider having the LBS do your final tensioning using a tensioning tool that allows the high tension spokes to be equally tensioned. The high tension/disc side is the one that matters, so get them cranked up and as even as possible. Be careful to avoid causing flat spots/hops, they are harder to fix.

Good luck!
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