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Old 2017-02-09, 10:43 PM   #676
Unicyclist Lou
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Your display of frames looks great.
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Old 2017-02-10, 12:28 AM   #677
Pinoclean
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Originally Posted by Siddhartha Valmont View Post
Impressive collection. I hope that you still tried some with a wheel just for the sake of saying that they are not just expensive coat hangers

I thought about you when recently another Koxx Carbon frame popped up in the German trade thread.

And thanks for sharing nice pics
I got many of them at last unicon so to save space I didn't bring a street frame and rode the ones I was picking up. Overall none were good though. The M4O has a super long neck so I couldn't put my seat as low as I wanted to feel comfortable doing tricks, the KH double crown was really quite awkward to do spin tricks on because of the extra weight when spinning, the Quax Titanium looks like a street frame but cannot fit a fat tyre in it and the Black Domina 2 had a neck that was too short so my cut seat post was way too low

The koxx titania was my street unicycle of choice for a long time but it is quite brutal on the knees haha.

I have a KH 2015 frame for tricks and I have bent the neck of it forward from landing badly so it's probably good that I don't ride these too much.. That and I only am good at hockey so generally spend 90% of my week on a freestyle.

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Originally Posted by Unicyclist Lou View Post
Your display of frames looks great.
Thanks. I hope to collect all that I can so one day there can be a historical display of unicycling. I think I may need to collaborate with John Foss however :P
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Old 2017-03-13, 08:22 AM   #678
lightbulbjim
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I decided enough is enough with my 36er brake howling and vibrating, so I fabricobbled a brace to try and stiffen it up. If this works I'm going to ditch the dBrake and weld a caliper mount to the frame.

Actually, if this doesn't work then I'm also going to make a new mount and weld it to the frame. So I probably shouldn't have bothered with this, and should have just fixed it properly instead.

Anyway, I've yet to try this out properly, but it seems to work when pushing it by hand. Here's to smooth and silent braking!
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Old 2017-03-13, 12:06 PM   #679
Tony Black
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Originally Posted by lightbulbjim View Post
I decided enough is enough with my 36er brake howling and vibrating, so I fabricobbled a brace to try and stiffen it up. If this works I'm going to ditch the dBrake and weld a caliper mount to the frame.

Actually, if this doesn't work then I'm also going to make a new mount and weld it to the frame. So I probably shouldn't have bothered with this, and should have just fixed it properly instead.

Anyway, I've yet to try this out properly, but it seems to work when pushing it by hand. Here's to smooth and silent braking!
Looks great! I'm going to do something similar on my friend's uni
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Old 2017-03-13, 12:12 PM   #680
MrImpossible
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightbulbjim View Post
I decided enough is enough with my 36er brake howling and vibrating, so I fabricobbled a brace to try and stiffen it up. If this works I'm going to ditch the dBrake and weld a caliper mount to the frame.
I did something very similar with my Oracle and it worked great. It seems like the dbrake works OK with some brakes, not with others - it worked fine with my Oracle's original brake, but I couldn't get it to stop shuddering with a replacement brake.

I never had any problems after I added the brace, but I eventually switched to a frame with proper brake mounts, and I wouldn't buy another uni with a dbrake.
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Old 2017-03-13, 09:30 PM   #681
lightbulbjim
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Looks great! I'm going to do something similar on my friend's uni
Thanks, it's pretty easy if you have the tools to hand.

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Originally Posted by MrImpossible View Post
I did something very similar with my Oracle and it worked great. It seems like the dbrake works OK with some brakes, not with others - it worked fine with my Oracle's original brake, but I couldn't get it to stop shuddering with a replacement brake.

I never had any problems after I added the brace, but I eventually switched to a frame with proper brake mounts, and I wouldn't buy another uni with a dbrake.
I agree, from now on I'm steering clear of the dBrake. Mine was ok when I first set it up, but the vibration has been steadily getting worse. I've tried cleaning the rotor and sanding the pads but it made no difference. I've experimented with different tension on the bearing cap bolts but it made no difference.

Riding the brake to the bottom of a big hill while the dBrake approaches resonant frequency is not pleasant. I actually chickened out of a steep descent the other day because I didn't trust the dBrake, which is what prompted me to (finally) take action.
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Old 2017-03-14, 08:23 AM   #682
Juan M
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My new muni with Mad4One frame and Nextie Carbon 27.5 rim
Wheel built by me
Short ride and it seems to be fantastic ... needs more road and dirt to get a better feeling
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Old 2017-03-14, 09:35 PM   #683
LargeEddie
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My new muni with Mad4One frame and Nextie Carbon 27.5 rim
Wheel built by me
Short ride and it seems to be fantastic ... needs more road and dirt to get a better feeling
Sweet! Have fun riding it.
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Old 2017-03-14, 10:14 PM   #684
Pinoclean
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My new muni with Mad4One frame and Nextie Carbon 27.5 rim
Wheel built by me
Short ride and it seems to be fantastic ... needs more road and dirt to get a better feeling
Very cool
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Old 2017-03-14, 11:07 PM   #685
lightbulbjim
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Nice wheel! Looks like a good Goldilocks amount of tread.
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Old 2017-03-15, 05:39 AM   #686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightbulbjim View Post
I decided enough is enough with my 36er brake howling and vibrating, so I fabricobbled a brace to try and stiffen it up. If this works I'm going to ditch the dBrake and weld a caliper mount to the frame.

Actually, if this doesn't work then I'm also going to make a new mount and weld it to the frame. So I probably shouldn't have bothered with this, and should have just fixed it properly instead.

Anyway, I've yet to try this out properly, but it seems to work when pushing it by hand. Here's to smooth and silent braking!
Went for a ride this morning and braking was smooth. Success!
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Old 2017-03-17, 05:18 PM   #687
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Gave my trusty old UDC cf base the third major overhaul.

Originally I build it with the oldschool bolts sticking out the seat approach (almost 7 years ago) and alongside the usual problems with it like hitting your fingers on those damn nuts constantly, I was 14 or 15, so my drilling and filing wasn't all that accurate.

Then I used M5 T-Nuts everywhere except the back bumper and custom M5 allen bolts that use a 4mm allen key (did those by grinding the threads of M6 bolts using a bench grinder, and cutting new M5 threads, and no I don't know why I thought that was a good idea either, but it held up surprisingly well, I think I wanted to keep the holes in the base as small as possible, and still use the bigger allen key).

I realized how stupid that was a bit later, and used M6 T-Nuts, still had the bolts sticking out method for the back though.

Now, recently I got fed up with my inaccurate holes, and T nuts spinning because the bolts never went in without fiddling a lot and so on, and since I obtained a KH Street saddle, I used parts of the steel reinforcement plates with the middle cut out, and speedholes added for extra lightness, to replace the T nuts, and in the back I welded two sleeve nuts to a strip of Volvo fender, to make sure they won't spin.
I also ground down the front of the base to finally make the handle fit right, and sed a strip of edge protection stuff from a hardwarestore, and some clearcoat to make it pretty. Some stuff I am not happy with includes how much I had to elongate and enlarge some of the holes to get everything in the right place this time around, but I believe it will still be plenty strong.

I originally wanted to do a little step by step post, but forgot to take pictures...anyway, here is the final product:

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Old 2017-03-18, 09:01 AM   #688
Pinoclean
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Originally Posted by finnspin View Post
Gave my trusty old UDC cf base the third major overhaul.

Originally I build it with the oldschool bolts sticking out the seat approach (almost 7 years ago) and alongside the usual problems with it like hitting your fingers on those damn nuts constantly, I was 14 or 15, so my drilling and filing wasn't all that accurate.

Then I used M5 T-Nuts everywhere except the back bumper and custom M5 allen bolts that use a 4mm allen key (did those by grinding the threads of M6 bolts using a bench grinder, and cutting new M5 threads, and no I don't know why I thought that was a good idea either, but it held up surprisingly well, I think I wanted to keep the holes in the base as small as possible, and still use the bigger allen key).

I realized how stupid that was a bit later, and used M6 T-Nuts, still had the bolts sticking out method for the back though.

Now, recently I got fed up with my inaccurate holes, and T nuts spinning because the bolts never went in without fiddling a lot and so on, and since I obtained a KH Street saddle, I used parts of the steel reinforcement plates with the middle cut out, and speedholes added for extra lightness, to replace the T nuts, and in the back I welded two sleeve nuts to a strip of Volvo fender, to make sure they won't spin.
I also ground down the front of the base to finally make the handle fit right, and sed a strip of edge protection stuff from a hardwarestore, and some clearcoat to make it pretty. Some stuff I am not happy with includes how much I had to elongate and enlarge some of the holes to get everything in the right place this time around, but I believe it will still be plenty strong.

I originally wanted to do a little step by step post, but forgot to take pictures...anyway, here is the final product:

Good job Finn carbon bases are a bitch. I did mine with tnuts and while they work ok I had to shorten my bolts which was done witha hack saw and it makes it impossible to get them as the threads arent smooth. I need to buy new bolts that are shorter. Also One bolt went in at a random angle and im fairly sure screwed the thread in a tnut. Basically I have just avoided taking my base apart for a good 9 months. Not looking forward to the day when I have to fix it all up..
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Old 2017-03-24, 10:42 AM   #689
Eric aus Chemnitz
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Originally Posted by lightbulbjim View Post
... so I fabricobbled a brace to try and stiffen it up. [...] Anyway, I've yet to try this out properly, but it seems to work when pushing it by hand. Here's to smooth and silent braking!
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Originally Posted by Tony Black View Post
Looks great! I'm going to do something similar on my friend's uni
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Originally Posted by MrImpossible View Post
I did something very similar with my Oracle and it worked great.
In this tread we have a little collection of these "Hugo-Struts" as we call them (as Hugo was the first one who built such a thing).
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Old 2017-03-24, 09:03 PM   #690
lightbulbjim
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In this tread we have a little collection of these "Hugo-Struts" as we call them (as Hugo was the first one who built such a thing).
Ah, thanks. I'd seen those pictures before but couldn't remember the thread they were from. That's where I got my inspiration from .
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