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Old 2013-06-06, 11:39 PM   #46
aracer
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BTW for the above ^^ that's a mechanical dual actuating disc brake designed for cyclocross!! Available with 140 or 160 rotor, but clearly you can use any rotor you want with the correct adaptor. Dual actuating means that both pads move, which is generally a high end disc brake thing and not common for mechanical brakes; BB5 and BB7 are single side actuating.
A lot lighter than a BB7, paired with a light lever it will get close to the weight of a high end hydraulic. Interesting.

There is one issue with the lever though - as a road/CX brake it's designed for use with a drop handlebar road lever. Those pull a lot less cable than a typical MTB V-brake lever, so if you pair that caliper with a V-brake lever you'll get a low mechanical advantage on the brake - ie a lot of lever force needed for a given braking force. You'll need to pair it with an old-fashioned canti lever (canti levers have a lower cable pull).
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Old 2013-06-07, 12:57 PM   #47
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Good news. I saw a few press releases on these back when they were announced, good to see them become available. When/if my inexpensive hydros go I'll probably look for something like this.
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Old 2013-06-07, 04:00 PM   #48
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I got a Avid elixir 3 for free
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Old 2013-06-13, 03:18 PM   #49
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ok guys- so I am going to go to a disc brake on my 26" Gmuni and had a few q's. Firstly my schlumpf hub is one of the ones with the shorter axles so rotor clearance might be an issue- would I be better going with a 160mm or a 180mm rotor- would the size of it make any difference to the frame clearance? If not- what size do you think would be superior? I am a heavy brake user- not just drag braking but heavy, highly modulated braking in technical situations- would the 160 be sufficient or would the 180 be too sensitive/grippy?

As for actual brakes- I want to go with a shimano one- don't think i need to go XT or XTR level. Would like reach adjustment, and easy cable shortening.

Was thinking this Rotor
Shimano XT RT75 6-Bolt Disc Rotor
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...px?ModelID=756

And this brake
Shimano Deore M596 Disc Brake
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=67246

I am still a bit confused about the adapters- if i went with a 160mm rotor I would need what adapter? ANd which adapter would I need if i went with a 180.

give you your thoughts!
Cheers guys,
Mark
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Old 2013-06-13, 04:18 PM   #50
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I have been riding the TRP Spyre mechanical disc brake on my Oregon.

It is good brake, has a different feel than a hydraulic disc brake, less grabby, smooth, while being quite powerful. It works very well for gliding the brake while going down long hills.

Due to the brake being designed for cyclocross, it must be used with a road pull or bmx brake lever.

I bought a pair, the other one goes on the 36er
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Old 2013-06-13, 08:48 PM   #51
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Due to the brake being designed for cyclocross, it must be used with a road pull or bmx brake lever.
Ah yes - forgot about BMX levers. Not yet available here though.
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Old 2013-06-13, 09:24 PM   #52
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Ran out of power in the MT2 today. Im using it with a 180mm rotor

So question to you mountain bike guys, how do you get more power out of your brakes? I could not slow down on one of the lines I was doing today, and when you are using short cranks that can be quite scary haha.

Thanks,
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Old 2013-06-14, 07:58 AM   #53
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Use longer cranks.

Really, brakes are more of a supplement, they help, but long cranks are better.

If your brake faded, then you might try a different pad. I have not overheated a pad since I ditched the Tektros.

@ mark:

I really like the m596, for the money it is a lot of brake. 160 is fine.
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Old 2013-06-14, 02:48 PM   #54
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If you really want something with a bit of power for downhill then get on Pinkbike and source a 2nd hand Saint. I got a pair of M810's a few weeks back for £130 posted ($200ish).
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Old 2013-06-14, 10:25 PM   #55
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Went to the bike shop and they said the brake felt fine, no air bubbles in the line. Apparently I have a cheap disc, Haze i think. They suggested getting a better rotor, such as avid.

So this weekend hopefully the rotor and new pads does the trick for me.

Short cranks are for lazy people that don't like to stay on the trail long

Also after some further research the MT2 is in the same category with bike trial brakes soooo hopefully that means they have good power???
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Old 2013-06-15, 04:02 AM   #56
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I got my elixir set up and wow it's powerfully for our dh runs and can ride when it's damp
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Old 2013-06-15, 10:06 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobSpera View Post
Went to the bike shop and they said the brake felt fine, no air bubbles in the line. Apparently I have a cheap disc, Haze i think. They suggested getting a better rotor, such as avid.

So this weekend hopefully the rotor and new pads does the trick for me.

Short cranks are for lazy people that don't like to stay on the trail long

Also after some further research the MT2 is in the same category with bike trial brakes soooo hopefully that means they have good power???
Yup, a few of my friends are running MT2's and seriously rate them including a lad who works at probably the biggest bike trials dealer in the world.
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Old 2013-06-16, 09:45 PM   #58
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Replaced the pads and rotor on the uni.

Went for a ride today and it seems to feel better so far. Still nothing crazy steep, just a technical ride.

The braking does feel more responsive, this may because of the pads I think.
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Old 2013-06-17, 03:11 AM   #59
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What pads ya using?
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Old 2013-06-17, 03:25 AM   #60
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Just the standard maguras i think.
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