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Old 2013-01-20, 09:57 PM   #1
Jacob Young
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Question 36er as my first wheel build?

Last thursday, I tried a 36er at my local uni club - and I'm hooked. The problem is, though, that 36ers are either cheap and square taper (dealbreaker for me) or nice and ISIS, but very costly.

It's still early days as to whether I'm going to get one, but is it a dumb idea trying to build a 36er as my first wheel build?

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Old 2013-01-20, 10:13 PM   #2
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The only difference between building a 36" wheel
And a regular one is the length of the spokes. I would suggest getting a spoke tensometer like a park tool t1 to help you know what kind of tension you are putting into the spokes since it feels different compared to a smaller wheel.

Good luck!
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Old 2013-01-21, 05:48 AM   #3
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Not a dumb idea at all. My first scratch wheel build was a 36er with a Schlumpf and it was not all that difficult. Like Eric I suggest using a tension meter, I have a Park TM-1 and it is very easy to use and definitely gave me more confidence in building the wheel up. Good luck!
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Old 2013-01-21, 07:22 AM   #4
tstessney
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"cheap and square taper"???? From all us Coker owners.....ouch.
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Old 2013-01-21, 01:56 PM   #5
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May be I understand you wrong but QuAx 36" unit costs 276,47 € and ISIS. Or what is your problem?
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Old 2013-01-21, 02:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saskatchewanian View Post
The only difference between building a 36" wheel
And a regular one is the length of the spokes. I would suggest getting a spoke tensometer like a park tool t1 to help you know what kind of tension you are putting into the spokes since it feels different compared to a smaller wheel.

Good luck!
+1.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com

You'll find all you need to know there. It's an AWESOME site.

On a 36er wheelbuild I took a seatpost and screwed the 4 bolt holes into a plywood platform and put the frame sticking up in the air for the stand. It worked very well.

Be sure to get the proper length spokes, or be prepared to cut them to length. The stock spokes are too long for 3 cross with a 100mm Nimbus or KH ISIS hub. They need cut to 366mm if you go that route. If you build a 125mm hub, the standard 36er spokes work fine.

If you do use a Park TM-1 and 14 gauge spokes, 20-23 is a reasonable measurement for a Stealth or Stealth 2 rim. 20 is a bit low, but still works- although it's not ideal.

Even tension is key.

Good luck and keep us posted on the results!
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Old 2013-01-21, 03:43 PM   #7
Jacob Young
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Originally Posted by tstessney View Post
"cheap and square taper"???? From all us Coker owners.....ouch.
Square taper isn't all that bad, Its just past its best by a long way. There's no point (in my eyes) buying into what is now old tech.

That and I want my new uni to have interchangable parts with my other unis (if I decide to get one).
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Old 2013-01-21, 03:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by HudsonAktau View Post
May be I understand you wrong but QuAx 36" unit costs 276,47 € and ISIS. Or what is your problem?
I've never really liked Qu-Ax that much and I think it would be wise to go for 125 spacing. I do have a slight preference towards custom cokers too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unigoat View Post
+1.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com

You'll find all you need to know there. It's an AWESOME site.
I know - I bookmarked it ages ago for future reference.
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Good luck and keep us posted on the results!
Well, if I can get the money that is.


As for the Park tm-1, is it really needed. I don't really want to splash out loads of money on something that I probably won't use in the future (I'm fine with stock unis).
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Old 2013-01-21, 05:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Young View Post
I've never really liked Qu-Ax that much and I think it would be wise to go for 125 spacing. I do have a slight preference towards custom cokers too.



I know - I bookmarked it ages ago for future reference.

Well, if I can get the money that is.


As for the Park tm-1, is it really needed. I don't really want to splash out loads of money on something that I probably won't use in the future (I'm fine with stock unis).
Yes; without it you will eventually break spokes due to improper tension. I've seen this happen on many coker wheel builds done without one (including my own).

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Old 2013-01-21, 07:19 PM   #10
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I have built 5 wheels now (19", 24", 26", 29", 36") with two being dished disc wheels but am by no means and expert

For me the 36" wasn't really any harder you get more wind up in the spoke earlier on due to the longer spoke so I was over turning and backing off each spoke when doing the truing and final tensioning. Also the sheer size of the wheel made for a bit more of an effort when lacing and truing (I do it in the frame with a ruler held across the legs with elastic bands and the uni seat between my legs with the frame pointing up)

take your time and follow Sheldon's guide (how I learned) and make sure you buy the correct nipple length as well as they have different lengths of thread in them so effectively increase/decrease your spoke length by up to 2mm!

If you are buying parts all from UDC their wheel building fee is very reasonable and even I would just get them to do it (tend to want an odd rim or spoke/nipple type that they don't stoke hence building it myself)
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Old 2013-01-22, 08:04 AM   #11
Jacob Young
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If you are buying parts all from UDC their wheel building fee is very reasonable and even I would just get them to do it (tend to want an odd rim or spoke/nipple type that they don't stoke hence building it myself)
This way, though, I can save a bi o money and learn to wheel build. However, I've just added up all the prices and it turns out that it would probably be cheaper just swapping the hub on a stock uni.

You're right though, USC wheel building fee is pretty good - my LBS charges nearly twice as much.
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Old 2013-01-22, 09:35 AM   #12
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Definitely learn to build your own wheel. It's a really useful skill to have, especially as you are likely to think about changing some parts again somewhere down the line. If you can rebuild your own wheel then you'll be free to consider changing rims or hubs without feeling that it is a cost and delay to get a shop to build it for you.

I think I have only ever built 36" wheels, as this was why I learned how to do it too. As others have said - do make sure you have the correct length spokes and nipples; it can cause a lot of frustration when the last part of your build almost works but just won't.

Good luck!

Sam

P.S. I have never had or used a tensometer. I don't doubt they can be helpful, but I have build my wheels dozens of times without and can't remember ever having broken a spoke (maybe I have a bad memory!).
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Old 2013-01-22, 10:56 AM   #13
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May be I understand you wrong but QuAx 36" unit costs 276,47 € and ISIS. Or what is your problem?
where did you find that price ?
thank you
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Old 2013-01-22, 03:49 PM   #14
Jacob Young
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Originally Posted by redwelly View Post
I think I have only ever built 36" wheels, as this was why I learned how to do it too. As others have said - do make sure you have the correct length spokes and nipples; it can cause a lot of frustration when the last part of your build almost works but just won't.

P.S. I have never had or used a tensometer. I don't doubt they can be helpful, but I have build my wheels dozens of times without and can't remember ever having broken a spoke (maybe I have a bad memory!).
I'll probably get my parts from UDC (if I end up getting a 36er. Either that or a 29er) because they're just down the road from me so If they give me the wrong parts I can easily return them.

Hopefully I'll get the money to buy a 36er so I can finaly have built my first wheel - If I can make up my mind that is.

Thanks
Jacob
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Old 2013-01-23, 02:18 AM   #15
Shmolagin
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I have added up the price of assembling 36ers from UDC, and all of them are about the same as the preassembled ones. Obviously the price would vary depending on what customizations you put on it but it is much easier to just buy one already assembled.
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