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Old 2016-06-10, 02:03 PM   #91
Killian
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No I don't prestretch the tube since imo it doesn't accomplish anything. I pulled a 29er tube out of my 36 after a year and it was still pretty much a 29er tube. It still needed stretched and all that.

Regarding the TA on the Qu Ax rim, I have not messed with one but I have put Gatorskins on CR18s with velox rim tape (read: very tight) and it just took some time.

Tire levers with a 29er tube is asking for trouble unless you are VERY careful. As a rule I think it's good practice to never use them.
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Old 2016-06-11, 06:21 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killian View Post
Do not use tire levers no matter how bad you want to.
That's good advice but also can't be applied to any 36" rim I've had. My current setup (Nimbus rim with the holes, Nimbus tire) almost requires a crowbar to get the tire back on. That might be the reason I haven't tried the 29" tube thing. Plus I like having a FOSS product on a unicycle.
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Old 2016-06-11, 12:17 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by johnfoss View Post
That's good advice but also can't be applied to any 36" rim I've had. My current setup (Nimbus rim with the holes, Nimbus tire) almost requires a crowbar to get the tire back on. )
My point exactly with the TA/Qu-Ax combo. It ends up about 4 inches off the rim when you get to the last bit. I have worked it on with fingers before but it took me a LONG time and I REALLY worked at it.

Plus, is a stretched 29er really much more fragile than a FOSS? I managed those fine with levers, the trick is just not to stick it in your tube like an idiot
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Old 2016-06-11, 01:05 PM   #94
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.
Plus, is a stretched 29er really much more fragile than a FOSS? I managed those fine with levers, the trick is just not to stick it in your tube like an idiot
Shouldn't be more fragile. If you inflate one out of tire, you'll be surprised by how much it stretches.
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Old 2016-06-11, 01:37 PM   #95
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I'm with Killian on this one; however, there is a bead jack that is made for installing tires.

I used a 29er tube in a TA, on a Quax rim, and never needed a lever to install the tire. I did use clamps to keep the beads together in the "well" of the rim on the opposite side. Without that I might have needed the "bead jack," but really it is a last resort.
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Old 2016-06-11, 09:12 PM   #96
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My point exactly with the TA/Qu-Ax combo. It ends up about 4 inches off the rim when you get to the last bit. I have worked it on with fingers before but it took me a LONG time and I REALLY worked at it.

Plus, is a stretched 29er really much more fragile than a FOSS? I managed those fine with levers, the trick is just not to stick it in your tube like an idiot
It's not more fragile, but since you're stretching the tube on it is very easy to pinch it.

I'd suggest trying soapy water on the bead if you didn't already.

I'd do whatever I had to do to not use levers. I hate those things.
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Old 2016-06-15, 02:20 PM   #97
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I've been riding Foss in the KH36 for a couple of weeks now and there are two things I wonder about:

1)
It looses air pretty quickly, something like 100 kPa per week (1 bar drop). Did I somehow inflict a minor puncture on the tube while installing or is the valve (I'm riding the UDC Schrader valve edition) really that shitty?

2)
There is a lot of clearance between the valve and the rim, because it's skinny and doesn't have threads on the outside to put one of those circular nuts on it that are used to keep the valve from disappearing inside the rim on low pressures.
I'm wondering, how do I keep the rim from filling with water and dirt. Small amounts of water can evaporate, but as far as I can tell dirt stays in the rim till I dismantle the wheel to get it out.
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Old 2016-06-15, 05:28 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamikaze View Post
I've been riding Foss in the KH36 for a couple of weeks now and there are two things I wonder about:

1)
It looses air pretty quickly, something like 100 kPa per week (1 bar drop). Did I somehow inflict a minor puncture on the tube while installing or is the valve (I'm riding the UDC Schrader valve edition) really that shitty?

2)
There is a lot of clearance between the valve and the rim, because it's skinny and doesn't have threads on the outside to put one of those circular nuts on it that are used to keep the valve from disappearing inside the rim on low pressures.
I'm wondering, how do I keep the rim from filling with water and dirt. Small amounts of water can evaporate, but as far as I can tell dirt stays in the rim till I dismantle the wheel to get it out.
1) it's not the valve, it's the rubber itself that it's seeping through. If you've ever owned a road bike (high pressure, low volume) you are familiar with tubes being porous and having the fill them regularly. The foss tubes are more porous than the basic 36er tube, probably due to the material, and them being thinner.

2) It looks like you have a rim designed for the old 36er tube that used a HUGE hole for the valve stem. I have one wheel with that and use the old "commuter" tube. Unicycle.com/uk has something similar http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...convertor.html and http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...e-grommet.html, but I would contact them directly to see if they have something specifically for the older 36er rims to make it compatible with the new tube. It's not a normal Schrader size.
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Old 2016-06-16, 03:24 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juggleaddict View Post
1) it's not the valve, it's the rubber itself that it's seeping through. If you've ever owned a road bike (high pressure, low volume) you are familiar with tubes being porous and having the fill them regularly. The foss tubes are more porous than the basic 36er tube, probably due to the material, and them being thinner.
That makes me wonder, can I reduce that problem by putting a little bit of tyre sealant used in tubeless setups in to seal the pores? I mean the Foss tube weighs a whooping 410g less than the stock tube, even with 20g of sealant it would still be a big win.

Quote:
Originally Posted by juggleaddict View Post
2) It looks like you have a rim designed for the old 36er tube that used a HUGE hole for the valve stem. I have one wheel with that and use the old "commuter" tube. Unicycle.com/uk has something similar http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...convertor.html and http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...e-grommet.html, but I would contact them directly to see if they have something specifically for the older 36er rims to make it compatible with the new tube. It's not a normal Schrader size.
I'll have a look.
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Old 2016-06-20, 10:59 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by kamikaze View Post
There is a lot of clearance between the valve and the rim, because it's skinny and doesn't have threads on the outside to put one of those circular nuts on it that are used to keep the valve from disappearing inside the rim on low pressures.
I you are annoyed by the adjustment, you can put some electrical tape around it (either directly or by removing it and reinserting it with the tape).

I used this trick on a regular tube on one uni just to be able to put the pump in place without the valve disappearing in the rim.
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Old 2016-06-23, 04:32 PM   #101
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It finally happened to me

Was on my 36er, riding with Pierrox on his G24, we were about to finish our ride after 18km when I realize my tire has much rebound when I'm mounting and hopping (that's my freemount technique), so I check the pressure with my digital manometer and it was down to 10 PSI (from 45 PSI).
Few minutes later it was completely flat so I guess it was a puncture, or maybe it's because I hit to fast a half curb a little before.

Anyway, I'm too lazy to dismount the wheel to see what really happened.

Luckily we were at about 50 meters from my car when it happened.
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Old 2016-08-09, 03:24 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juggleaddict View Post
2) It looks like you have a rim designed for the old 36er tube that used a HUGE hole for the valve stem. I have one wheel with that and use the old "commuter" tube. Unicycle.com/uk has something similar http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...convertor.html and http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-...e-grommet.html, but I would contact them directly to see if they have something specifically for the older 36er rims to make it compatible with the new tube. It's not a normal Schrader size.
Those are Presta to Schrader converters so they are not big enough.

Also UDC Germany doesn't sell them and I am, allegedly, the first person ever to request something like this. They have converted many 36" unis to foss tubes (apparently some people don't install them themselves?!) and this has supposedly never been a problem.

A week later I rode in the rain and a big puddle turned out to be so deep that the valve got submerged and I could hear the water slosh around inside the rim for the rest of the ride.

So like any engineer would, I decided to fix it with duct tape.
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Old 2016-08-09, 03:41 PM   #103
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That's a great fix!
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Old 2018-08-14, 05:15 AM   #104
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I've been running Foss tubes in my 36'ers since 2011 without any problems, but now two tubes has failed whitin a couple of weeks. Both times there were a tiny hole next to the valve stem. My theory is that this has happended because I've repeatedly pushed the pumps valve cap to hard onto the valve in order to attach it properly.
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Old 2018-08-14, 08:10 AM   #105
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Interesting. Also possible that their "rubber" has dried and finally the tube is cracking. Are they both about the same age?
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