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Old 2010-07-19, 01:52 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucson Uni View Post
The downshift situations are always more urgent, and the downshift button is with my left foot.
Yes, downshifts appear to be always urgent, except you start trying many meters before you need to be in low gear. I have the downshift button on the right side but it desn't help.

I had several situations where I ended up dismounting because I had to ride slowly and did not hit the button soon enough.

But when shift, I have a 99% success rate of continuing to ride, on the 29" as well as on the 36"
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Old 2010-07-20, 12:59 AM   #212
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I think I'll do it all... move my pedals to the 125mm holes, switch to non-spiked pedals, and wear some high tops.
Thanks!
Tonight I finally got around to puting my non-spiked pedals in the 125mm holes. The difference is dramatic. My heels line right up. Though I am still terrible at keeping my balance when shifting up.
I'd prefer the 150's, but I guess for learning to shift, this will be ok. Once I can shift smooth, I'll try going back to 150s.

I'm pretty much just rubbing my heel on the button as it comes around. Not really pushing the button... more like rubbing it. Is that ok?

My feet aren't going to grow any. So that means I either:
A. Need to slide my foot backward 25mm, shift, and slide forward.
or
B. Need to shift with my ankle when the crank is in that position.

Right?

Last edited by MuniOrBust; 2010-07-20 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 2010-07-20, 03:52 AM   #213
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I think it's common to start by shifting by smearing the inside of your foot against the button; nothing wrong with that. With more practice it starts to become easier to catch it with the inside edge of the shoe tread, at least as the first try (followed quickly by trying with the inside of your foot if you happen to miss it). With more riding I doubt you'll eventually feel the need to slide your foot backward to shift, with 150's.

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Old 2010-07-20, 04:17 AM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danger_uni View Post
I think it's common to start by shifting by smearing the inside of your foot against the button; nothing wrong with that. With more practice it starts to become easier to catch it with the inside edge of the shoe tread, at least as the first try (followed quickly by trying with the inside of your foot if you happen to miss it). With more riding I doubt you'll eventually feel the need to slide your foot backward to shift, with 150's.
Shifting using the inside edge of the shoe tread is one way to shift, but it's just that. It's what works best for you yeah.

IMO the shoe tread technique is nowhere near as smooth or reliable as ankle shifting in shoes like the Karvers, where there is no smearing but a short definitive flick/roll towards the button. Compared to using the inside edge of the tread, the larger padded area over the ankle pretty much means you're gonna nail it - clean shifts, with a larger margin for error.
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Old 2010-07-20, 04:21 AM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuniOrBust View Post
Tonight I finally got around to puting my non-spiked pedals in the 125mm holes. The difference is dramatic. My heels line right up. Though I am still terrible at keeping my balance when shifting up.
I'd prefer the 150's, but I guess for learning to shift, this will be ok. Once I can shift smooth, I'll try going back to 150s.

I'm pretty much just rubbing my heel on the button as it comes around. Not really pushing the button... more like rubbing it. Is that ok?

My feet aren't going to grow any. So that means I either:
A. Need to slide my foot backward 25mm, shift, and slide forward.
or
B. Need to shift with my ankle when the crank is in that position.

Right?
I could try the 125 position on my cranks, but I don't think I could handle riding 125s in high gear for muni, or even 125 low gear for rocky climbing. Think I'll just tough it out at 150.

Has anyone else experienced accidental downshifts? Mine seem to occur at the most inopportune times - going really fast or down something really steep. I guess my feet are just flailing a bit in those situations.
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Old 2010-07-20, 04:23 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunicycle View Post
Shifting using the inside edge of the shoe tread is one way to shift, but it's just that. It's what works best for you yeah.

IMO the shoe tread technique is nowhere near as smooth or reliable as ankle shifting in shoes like the Karvers, where there is no smearing but a short definitive flick/roll towards the button. Compared to using the inside edge of the tread, the larger padded area over the ankle pretty much means you're gonna nail it - clean shifts, with a larger margin for error.

Hmmm, maybe I need to stop trying to finesse it and give more of a snap.
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Old 2010-07-20, 04:38 AM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunicycle View Post
Shifting using the inside edge of the shoe tread is one way to shift, but it's just that. It's what works best for you yeah.

IMO the shoe tread technique is nowhere near as smooth or reliable as ankle shifting in shoes like the Karvers, where there is no smearing but a short definitive flick/roll towards the button. Compared to using the inside edge of the tread, the larger padded area over the ankle pretty much means you're gonna nail it - clean shifts, with a larger margin for error.
True enough; especially offroad where bumps make it harder. But I do think it's helpful to practice shifting with the shoe tread as it increases accuracy and thus also helps with ankle shifting consistency.
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Old 2010-07-20, 04:50 AM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucson Uni View Post
Has anyone else experienced accidental downshifts? Mine seem to occur at the most inopportune times - going really fast or down something really steep. I guess my feet are just flailing a bit in those situations.
I've only had one accidental downshift, when the hub was in the 36'er. Didn't enjoy the experience, not something I want to repeat, so since then have made a point of being mindful of what the downshift foot is doing on the pedal when in high gear. I also set the downshift button in a little further, not much tho.

No doubt it'll catch me out again sometime but until then...
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Last edited by lunicycle; 2010-07-20 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 2010-07-20, 07:03 AM   #219
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I had one accidental downshift. It was in India and I was going down a slight hill fast. Didn't see the speed bump and got bounced into the air. Landed perfectly, but my heel had hit the knob so I was in low gear which made for a dramatic crash. That's the only time I can remember.
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Old 2010-07-21, 09:47 AM   #220
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How many miles/kilometres has your hub done, & type of hub...

As I'm really hooked on my 26" Guni I'm now worried about how long I can expect before normal problems (ie bearing of shift engagement) begin & it needs to be returned for a service.

So how many miles/kilometres has yours done..???

My 4 month old KH Muni hub has done 480 miles.
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Old 2010-07-21, 10:33 AM   #221
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Ha My hub is over 5 month's Old and Going strong It's a KH26" (too)
Km's ?? to safe weight I have no speedo
But I like Your thinking about Km's, e.t.c.
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Old 2010-07-21, 10:27 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splodge View Post
As I'm really hooked on my 26" Guni I'm now worried about how long I can expect before normal problems (ie bearing of shift engagement) begin & it needs to be returned for a service.

So how many miles/kilometres has yours done..???

My 4 month old KH Muni hub has done 480 miles.
I have had my hub for over 2 years and have a lot of miles on it between 1,000 and 2,000 miles (I don't really keep track but it has been in a geared 29er then to a geared 36er then to a geared 29er again, used it on and off road), no problems with mine except the crank bolts (crank bolts being easy to round out is my only complaint with my hub), I need to order some more bolts.
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Old 2010-07-21, 10:50 PM   #223
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I have about 2200 miles plus Beau has ridden maybe 1000 miles on two hubs. About 1500 miles each I guess. Still going strong and shifting well.
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Old 2010-07-22, 06:54 AM   #224
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My Schlumpf 29" (second generation of the cotterless hub) has done 1200 km since December 2005, and has never had any problem.

My Schlumpf 36" (KH/Schlumpf hub, so ISIS interface) has done 1028 km since January 2009. It was out of commission early on for four months due to the infamous bearing problem- repaired under warranty which took four months. Otherwise trouble-free.
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Old 2010-07-22, 07:06 AM   #225
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I was riding with Gilby the other day at U Games and noticed that he still had the same Schlumpf 29er he as used on several tours. He verified that it is the same original one he had since 2005, had it rebuilt by Florian on the Laos tour in 2006, etc. Still going strong.
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