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Old 2019-08-09, 10:53 AM   #16
Mikefule
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I'm on my third 36 (Now a KH36) which I ride mainly on 150mm cranks.

My preferred mount is semi static. I put the cranks at somewhere around 45 degrees, with the lower one on my non-dominant side, towards me.

I put my foot on the back/low/non-dominant pedal, put the seat in place between my legs and hold the front of the seat with my dominant hand. (So for me that's left foot on the back/lower pedal, right hand on the seat handle.)

I give a short "push" forwards, and then leap off my right foot, using the left pedal as a step. The unicycle never rolls backward. It sort of almost tolls forwards, then stops dead, which is when that back/lower pedal becomes a step.

It may not be the most spectacular mount, but it has worked for me for many years. These days, I may go for weeks or months without riding the 36 and I know I will freemount first attempt nnext time I get it out.

The other useful tip is to get very used to riding the 36 slowly, and on uneven ground. Get used to slowing down to a stop and riding away again without dismounting. When you feel completely at home in the saddle at low speed, freemounting it will become just an extension of that.

I remember the frustration when I had my first Coker Big 1 (a very primitive early 36) and when I was tired, remounting after a UPD could take 20 attempts. Don't worry, once you get the knack, you will wonder why it was ever a problem.
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Old 2019-08-13, 07:22 PM   #17
Gockie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikefule View Post
I'm on my third 36 (Now a KH36) which I ride mainly on 150mm cranks.

My preferred mount is semi static. I put the cranks at somewhere around 45 degrees, with the lower one on my non-dominant side, towards me.

I put my foot on the back/low/non-dominant pedal, put the seat in place between my legs and hold the front of the seat with my dominant hand. (So for me that's left foot on the back/lower pedal, right hand on the seat handle.)

I give a short "push" forwards, and then leap off my right foot, using the left pedal as a step. The unicycle never rolls backward. It sort of almost tolls forwards, then stops dead, which is when that back/lower pedal becomes a step.

It may not be the most spectacular mount, but it has worked for me for many years.
Hi Mike,
Do you have a video of this you can share please?
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Old 2019-08-13, 07:31 PM   #18
Mikefule
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Originally Posted by Gockie View Post
Hi Mike,
Do you have a video of this you can share please?
No. I suppose I could make one some time if it would help, but there are far better and more photogenic (cinegenic?) than I who could do so.
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Old 2019-08-16, 06:27 AM   #19
rogeratunicycledotcom
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When I static mount I cheat. I hold on to the tyre to stop it moving. This technique may help you.
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Old 2019-08-17, 03:52 PM   #20
Vogelfrei80
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When I static mount I cheat. I hold on to the tyre to stop it moving. This technique may help you.
Why don't use a brake?
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Old 2019-08-17, 07:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mikefule View Post
No. I suppose I could make one some time if it would help, but there are far better and more photogenic (cinegenic?) than I who could do so.
I do the same mount on my 36er, here's my video


Looking at the video it looks like there's a slight reverse roll but I'm mostly just using my left foot as a step-up onto the seat. I've tried John Foss's style (there are a few people I ride with who do it this way) and can't get my head round it, but I reckon it'd be better for long distance riding - my mount gets FAR too tiring after 30 miles or so!
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Old 2019-08-18, 02:05 AM   #22
Canoeheadted
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You can't use a brake because the seat needs to rotate around the wheel.

Try it, you'll see what I mean.
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Old 2019-08-18, 03:23 AM   #23
Canoeheadted
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So pardon me.
I just got back from a ride and tried the brake mount.
It is easy. You just have to have the seat in the right position relative to the wheel when the brake is applied.
It did feel very crude.

I'm a fan of the rolling mount.
It's alway easier to ease up on the force needed instead of having to apply more force needed with a static mount.
If you don't have enough energy to keep rolling then it turn's into a static mount.
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Old 2019-08-18, 05:03 AM   #24
Vogelfrei80
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Originally Posted by Canoeheadted View Post
So pardon me.
I just got back from a ride and tried the brake mount.
It is easy. You just have to have the seat in the right position relative to the wheel when the brake is applied.
It did feel very crude.

I'm a fan of the rolling mount.
It's alway easier to ease up on the force needed instead of having to apply more force needed with a static mount.
If you don't have enough energy to keep rolling then it turn's into a static mount.
I asked about using the brake, but I don't use it! I tried it before, but I was too lazy to learn till a 90% success rate

Last edited by Vogelfrei80; 2019-08-18 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 2019-08-27, 10:53 AM   #25
Setonix
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Originally Posted by Canoeheadted View Post
So pardon me.
I just got back from a ride and tried the brake mount.
It is easy. You just have to have the seat in the right position relative to the wheel when the brake is applied.
It did feel very crude.

I'm a fan of the rolling mount.
It's alway easier to ease up on the force needed instead of having to apply more force needed with a static mount.
If you don't have enough energy to keep rolling then it turn's into a static mount.
Why does a rollback mount require less force? Don't you first have to stop it from rolling back and then roll forward?

Last year I decided to focus on my 36" mounts for a while and noticed it was important how to set the pedals when doing my static mounts. Not too far down and not too far up. Mostly stopped riding the 36" again because it isn't so flexible as a 32". Of course you go faster with it, but on the whole I think it drains more energy.
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Old 2019-08-27, 03:50 PM   #26
Canoeheadted
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Setonix, my post was misunderstood.

I'm a fan of the forward rolling mount not the rollback mount.

Although, I did use the rollback mount for several weeks during the initial learning, it quickly disappeared and turned into a static mount.

Nowadays, I use whatever mount is most efficient for the situation.
The inefficient rollback mount is never used anymore... ever.
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Old 2019-08-28, 06:15 AM   #27
Setonix
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Originally Posted by Canoeheadted View Post
Setonix, my post was misunderstood.

I'm a fan of the forward rolling mount not the rollback mount.

Although, I did use the rollback mount for several weeks during the initial learning, it quickly disappeared and turned into a static mount.

Nowadays, I use whatever mount is most efficient for the situation.
The inefficient rollback mount is never used anymore... ever.
Sorry, I missed that: rolling - roll-back

Do you only use the rolling mount on the 36" or also on smaller unis? I use static on all. At some point I put some time in a rolling mount of the 36", but mostly every time I tried, my steps were of a different size and I'd not end up on the pedal correctly.
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Old 2019-08-28, 04:06 PM   #28
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.... At some point I put some time in a rolling mount of the 36", but mostly every time I tried, my steps were of a different size and I'd not end up on the pedal correctly.
Timing is critical on a rolling mount. My go to mount on the 36er is a common rolling mount with three steps. I have the timing down so as long as I start correctly it works.

I call it a common rolling mount because I and is seems most do not really do a formal/by the book rolling mount where the wheel never stops the forward motion. The by the book rolling mount kind of defeats the benefit of the mount where all the forward motion of the wheel is transferred to energy to boost the rider up when the wheel stops.
My video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jP6y_RWAaw
Note that the wheel always stops on my mount.
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Old 2019-08-28, 09:31 PM   #29
Gockie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimT View Post
Timing is critical on a rolling mount. My go to mount on the 36er is a common rolling mount with three steps. I have the timing down so as long as I start correctly it works.

I call it a common rolling mount because I and is seems most do not really do a formal/by the book rolling mount where the wheel never stops the forward motion. The by the book rolling mount kind of defeats the benefit of the mount where all the forward motion of the wheel is transferred to energy to boost the rider up when the wheel stops.
My video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jP6y_RWAaw
Note that the wheel always stops on my mount.
I think the benefit of the rolling mount is that it gives the person mounting momentum to get onto the unicycle. To statically get on (i.e. To mount without the momentum start) is a big ask, a huge step is required and it's not something many people can do with any ease.

Me... The only way I've found I can freemount a 36er is with a tire grab mount. But that's impossible to do with handlebars.

So I want to learn the rolling mount but I haven't been able to get it... Perhaps I'm a bit afraid. I'm a middle aged woman with a dodgy right knee who only started riding unicycles less than 2 years ago...

Last edited by Gockie; 2019-08-28 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 2019-08-28, 11:51 PM   #30
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but I haven't been able to get it... Perhaps I'm a bit afraid. I'm a middle aged woman with a dodgy right knee who only started riding unicycles less than 2 years ago...
Come on Gockie, I'm sure you said that about static mounts before you started and learnt them just fine.

Seriously, I'm the same position (other than being a woman, and bit past the middle aged tag too) there is a primitive fear factor stopping me from jumping up once the rolling starts. Images of bloody shins and face plants and feet caught in spokes, but don't let me discourage you.
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