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Old 2008-12-17, 05:55 PM   #31
naturequack
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I tried out unisk8r's handlebars above. I agree that having something to grab on to closer to the seat would be nice. Especially for hill climbing. The draw back with these bars is that they are a little bit wide, and my thighs ended up banging into the ends. I've toyed with mounting those bar end grips on the existing handlebars (see above post from 12/11/08) so that I could grab a little closer to the seat. It would require welding some mounts. But I've found that if I grab on to the joint between the aero bar and the "T" stem (right where the brake is mounted) then that's close enough. I'm not sure if the bar end grips would be worth their extra weight. If I didn't have to weld mounts then I'm sure I would have found out by now.
After trying several different configurations I've settled on the configuration from the 12/11/08 post. I'm pretty happy with them as they are right now.

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Old 2008-12-17, 06:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unisk8r View Post
Heres the first set of bars I had on Florian Green. The intent was to have close grips for mounting and slow speeds, as well as multiple forward positions for speed work.
That's sweet! do you you have more pictures? I may want to replicate that style. What is it made of? Where did you get the pieces from?

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Old 2008-12-17, 06:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naturequack View Post
I tried out unisk8r's handlebars above. I agree that having something to grab on to closer to the seat would be nice. Especially for hill climbing.

Geoff

That is exactly why I added the "power grips" to my handlebar.



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Old 2008-12-17, 08:05 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unisk8r View Post
Heres the first set of bars I had on Florian Green. The intent was to have close grips for mounting and slow speeds, as well as multiple forward positions for speed work.
Pete: Do you find that you want elbow/arm pads like on aero bars when you are in the most forward position? Any pics of you/someonw riding this set-up reclined out over the long bars?
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Old 2008-12-19, 01:14 AM   #35
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corbin: those are just cut-up pieces of 7/8" alloy drop handlebars, re-welded (by TIG) into the shapes and lengths I wanted to try.

brycer1968: I have tried mounting elbow aero pads (the folding type that fold up when not in use). They make it more difficult to ride, because your hand input is "diffused" by the weight on your arms. I think with alot of practice (no worse than anything else in unicycling) the aero pads would be useful for road rides, but that would involve learning to input on the bars with your whole arms, not just your hands. Hands alone allow more defined and subtle inputs on the handlebars. Hope that explanation helps!
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Old 2008-12-19, 01:18 AM   #36
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This has been posted before - me in my 2005 "tuck":
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Last edited by unisk8r; 2008-12-19 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 2008-12-19, 01:20 AM   #37
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Compare my "tuck" position to someone like Dustin Schaap's more vertical bars:
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Last edited by unisk8r; 2008-12-19 at 01:21 AM. Reason: forgot to attach pic
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Old 2008-12-19, 02:12 AM   #38
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I am currently trying to get a working handle setup out of the remains of my t7 and other parts. Couldn't find any of those stoker stems except in the states, and they seem very pricey. So I just got the idea of buying something like this and modding it with a seatpost clamp:

http://www2.xlc-parts.com/index.php?...6,25006005.jpg

It is made of aluminum and the max load is stated as 10Kg... Not sure if it would work anyways. The quick release attachment might be a weak spot too.

What do you think, would it be worth a try?

Actually it might be handy to use it the way it is meant as a rack too...
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Old 2008-12-19, 10:42 AM   #39
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So I will try to find this rack in my lbs today. They probably won't have it though.
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Old 2008-12-19, 12:02 PM   #40
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that rack is not good for any handlebar modification if you ask me
we have one at my lbs where i work but the shape is not really what you are looking for.

if you do decide to by one show it!
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Old 2008-12-19, 12:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unisk8r View Post
This has been posted before - me in my 2005 "tuck":
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Your V-frame is by far the best solution for a road unicycle. The riding position on a unicycle should not be all that different to a bike position. The only reason it is so upright is that unicycles have been traditionally used for doing tricks with instead of riding any significant distance on. Lowering your position improves power and weight distribution (less on your butt), and stability (lower centre of gravity).

It makes no sense to make longer and longer things sticking out from the fork. I hope unicycle manufacturers ditch the single fork design and make something like a V-frame. It wouldn't be too hard to modify the existing say, a Nimbus 36" frame, into a V-frame. Just widen the angle and stick a seat tube on the front fork. Then you'd be able to use a normal bike stem and bar.

It's a project I'm working on early next year.
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Old 2008-12-19, 02:52 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eenwieler-sander View Post
to munirocks

that rack is not good for any handlebar modification if you ask me
we have one at my lbs where i work but the shape is not really what you are looking for.

if you do decide to by one show it!

I agree, do not buy that rack if you are trying to set up a handle.
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Old 2008-12-19, 03:30 PM   #43
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Unisk8r - would you mind if I sent a picture of your v-frame to Rick Hunter to see what he says about manufacturing something similar. Also if you are ok with it, is there anything you would change if you where creating it again?
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Old 2008-12-19, 05:18 PM   #44
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Unisk8r - would you mind if I sent a picture of your v-frame to Rick Hunter to see what he says about manufacturing something similar. Also if you are ok with it, is there anything you would change if you where creating it again?
Ah, what goes around, comes around! Rick made my very first V-frame in 2004, which "proved the concept" as a standard direct drive uni. It was delivered unfinished. After building it up and finding it most roadworthy, I then welded in the jackshaft housing box assembly, and painted it purple. Hence it became known as "Purple Phaze".

Rick might still have some specs, but as I recall I set the seat & bar tubes 8" apart as measured at the top of the tire. That spec should now be 10". The handlebar positions can be adjusted accordingly, but you want the stem mount far enough in front.

Rim brake mounts should be attached on the rear legs. I tried it on the front for better looks, but the brake housings then hit your knees. A disc brake mount is fairly simple, but welding in a disc mount has to be even more precise than a rim mount.

In addition, that first model had 2 seatstay tubes (1/2" OD) connecting the seat and bar tubes. Later arrangements are more complex, like the "web" on Florian Green. You only need 1 horizontal connector tube, combined with a way to connect the frame downtubes further down the legs, for better overall stiffness.
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Old 2008-12-19, 07:05 PM   #45
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munirocks: you can probably find a junk bike frame for cheaper than that rack and it would be way better.

Ask at your local bike shops if they have any junk frames, or failing that dredge the nearest stream that goes through a city, you will find one sooner or later.

Old road bikes seem to have the perfect sized tubes.
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