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Old 2009-07-30, 10:58 PM   #16
semach.the.monkey
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I think that bit needs to go between the adjuster and the cable sleeve. Not 100% sure though, but try undoing the knurled adjuster all the way off of the bit its on and move it over the olive type thing. The bit with the slot cut out can then move to the other side of the olive and have the knurled nut put back on.

See if that then feels like it fits together ok. If not, once you've cut off the crimped bit from the other end, you can remove the whole lot and lose* the olive completely before putting it all back together.

Yes, the cable can be cut down. The outer sheild is a spiral metal affair with plastic around it, and it needs to be cut cleanly otherwise it may rub on the cable inner, or not sit properly in the calliper bolt thing.

Don't cut it too short though. You probably want it to wrap around the seat post (loosely) once so that you have got enough slack in it in case you need to remove the saddle, or extent the handle. It's much easier to cut it shorter than make it longer

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* Make sure you know where you lose it... just in case it is important for anything. But I don't think it is.
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Old 2009-07-31, 01:12 AM   #17
Myrninerest
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Okay, I fitted it! Thanks so much; I really appreciate the help.

I have one problem; when I let go of the lever, the brake doesn't spring back like it should. It just stays close to the rim. How can I rectify that problem..?
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Old 2009-07-31, 01:32 AM   #18
jtrops
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If you have the cable wrapped around the seat tube as suggested you will have too much friction in the cable housing for the brake to release. This method of "securing" the cable works for hydraulic brakes because it's pressure in the housing not a cable. You will want to pull the cable out of the housing, and trim the housing so that it is as smooth a line from the lever to the brake as possible. Err on the side of too much housing as you can always trim a bit more. If you have it the right length it won't bind the cable, and you won't have very much housing flex as you pull the brake lever.

The attached picture is a V-Brake, but the principle is the same.
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Old 2009-07-31, 09:39 AM   #19
semach.the.monkey
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As long as the cable isn't bent too tightly or kinked you should be ok, but as jtroops says, ideally it should be a fairly direct line between the calliper and lever.

If you cut the outer sleeve down, you may need to clean up the cut end if it is rubbing on the inner cable. There's a good photo on this page as to what it should look like; http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html There is also a whole load of other good stuff on there which might be worth a quick look through.

The other thing to check is that the spring on the calliper itself is actually in place and doing its job. Behind the two arms will be a silver wire thing that should be sitting inbetween some notches on each of the calliper arms. This is the spring that returns them to their original position. Just make sure that this is doing its job. You can loosen the cable clamp bolt and squeeze the calliper to feel if it is springing back out again.

STM
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Old 2009-08-01, 08:46 PM   #20
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Thanks very much for all the help, guys! Here's the finished product; everything seems to work fine now. The one strange thing is that at a certain point when the brakes are on, there's a sort of clank/click noise. Nothing's loose, so I'm really not sure what it is. In any case, it's safe and works just fine.

Again, thanks very much!
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Old 2009-08-02, 12:12 AM   #21
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The noise you are hearing is probably the seam on the rim as it passes the brake pads. You can sand it to minimize the sound, and it will give you a good start with that nice brake rubbed look that rims get over time.
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