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Old 2019-02-06, 01:42 AM   #1
Bryson
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UDC Titan or Nimbus 36" Oracle

I am planning on riding across the U.S. this summer and need to get a 36er. I was wondering if the UDC Titan would be up for a trip of that size, or if it would be a better investment to spend the extra money on the Nimbus Oracle? Thanks!
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Old 2019-02-06, 02:49 AM   #2
JimT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryson View Post
I am planning on riding across the U.S. this summer and need to get a 36er. I was wondering if the UDC Titan would be up for a trip of that size, or if it would be a better investment to spend the extra money on the Nimbus Oracle? Thanks!
I have a Coker 36" (similar to the Titan) and a Nimbus Stealth 36". I'd recommend the Nimbus 36" for the stronger trouble free ISIS hub and the option of a disk brake for long distance riding. For cranks I'd suggest at least a two hole 127/150mm and maybe a three hole 100/125/150mm.

You could likely make it with the Titan but there is a big jump in quality, durability and options going with the Nimbus.
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Old 2019-02-06, 06:06 AM   #3
bungeejoe
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I hope you are a persistent individual?

Anything can be made (forced) to fit the need. But, you should contemplate how many hours you will share with what you choose to ride. Let’s hope after a couple thousand miles under your wheel you have no regrets about how much money you thought you might save.

Personally, I’d upgrade to a Kris Holm 36” with 110 cranks and an old style TA Radial tire (if I could convince someone to sell me one) with a 29er tube. Don’t waste your money on either the brake or handle bar.

Most on this forum will not agree with me about my recommendations. Heck, what would I know?

Enjoy,
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Old 2019-02-08, 07:22 AM   #4
johnfoss
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If you're riding all the way across the country, that's going to mean plenty of mountains, and LOTS of flats. So I highly recommend the 3-hole cranks mentioned above. 150s for the big climbs, 100s for the Great Plains and 125s for everything in between. Or if you're going to be self-supporting (lots of heavy gear) you probably won't want the 100mm holes.

I recommend an ISIS hub because it absolutely won't break. Spokes might break, tires will get flats and wear down. The Nimbus Shadow handle may break at the base (you should have some kind of handle).
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...You should contemplate how many hours you will share with what you choose to ride. Let’s hope after a couple thousand miles under your wheel you have no regrets about how much money you thought you might save.
I absolutely agree, don't scrimp, and remember there will likely be some repairs along the way, at least on tires and spokes.

The old TA Radial tires were indeed great for long distance, but be wary of using an old/used one. The one I have is starting to have tread sepaaration, but only after tons of miles (including Ride The Lobster)
Quote:
Don’t waste your money on either the brake or handle bar.

Most on this forum will not agree with me about my recommendations. Heck, what would I know?
Joe knows a lot about doing long rides! But I don't agree. That means it's important for you to get comfortable with your ride, do plenty of long rides to prepare, and figure out what you think you'll need. Ed Pratt rode around the world with all his gear; that probably increases the need for both a brake and handlebar. Handlebar is something you have to get used to, but I wouldn't want to do a long ride without one. A brake is more optional if your knees are young, and if you aren't going to have a heavy load with you. Personally I recommend both.

Disclaimer: My longest ride was 101 miles, followed by zero miles the next day.
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Last edited by johnfoss; 2019-02-08 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 2019-02-08, 01:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfoss View Post
…Ed Pratt rode around the world with all his gear…
Speaking of Ed, he used a Nimbus 36" Oracle, so you already know that this uni that will last over a long distance.

Oh and with regards to the multi-holed cranks I totally agree with the others. I have never really done any big distances but I already see the benefits and carrying an appropriate spanner (wrench) and an allen (hex) key for the seat height (assuming you don't have quick release) allows you adjust things really fast.
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Old 2019-02-08, 01:08 PM   #6
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I forgot to add that if you are using multi-holed cranks make sure you have a seatpost with measurements on the back as this makes it super simple to get the seat height just right, with zero messing around.

Last edited by ruari; 2019-02-08 at 01:10 PM.
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