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Old 2019-08-22, 07:28 AM   #16
kunstrasen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leo View Post
Because actually I need it in odd sizes, that aren't available.

How about a standard seatpost, a shim and a good double bolt seatclamp?

example for shims:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adapter-Huls...-/122257180347
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Old 2019-08-22, 07:46 AM   #17
rogeratunicycledotcom
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Shims are never an optimum solution as they have 2 surfaces that can create problems.

I am going to throw in another thought.

Currently we use (possibly without realising it) our seatpost and the interface with the frame as the failpoint. It is the stress relieve valve for our frame system. If everything is made super rigid... what will fail next?
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Old 2019-08-22, 08:26 AM   #18
kunstrasen
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You are right with both points. To me it comes down to the usage of the uni. Is is just an older frame with a non std size and it shall be used for riding around instead of hanging in the garage without seatpost? Then a shim might be the easy fix.
Or will it be used for hardcore riding? In that case the old frame might anyhow not survive for long...
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Old 2019-08-23, 02:41 PM   #19
finnspin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom View Post
Shims are never an optimum solution as they have 2 surfaces that can create problems.
Emphasis on CAN. Good shim's shouldn't be much of an issue. Unfortunately, most cheap shims that are available aren't exactly high precision, and that combined with the tolerances seatposts and tubes have means that it comes down to a 50% chance of either seattubes deforming, or nothing fitting.

If you are considering a very expensive custom part however, having someone make a quality shim sounds like an alternative to consider.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom View Post
I am going to throw in another thought.

Currently we use (possibly without realising it) our seatpost and the interface with the frame as the failpoint. It is the stress relieve valve for our frame system. If everything is made super rigid... what will fail next?
That's why I don't crank my seatpost down as much as possible on my 19", because experience has told me that when riding flatland, there will always come a bail where you step on the seattube, and the seat will twist. How much you tighten the seattube only determines how horrible the creaking sound the twisting makes is, and if you'll need an allen key to correct it back.

I leave it so I can still twist the seat without losening the clamp, but it will take a lot more force than normal riding/tricks could exert.

Aside from the twisting, I don't think a weaker seatpost will make the frame last much longer. While there is some effects of taking out a bit of shock loading, I at least doubt you could make a financial case for breaking seatposts instead of frames. (On common setups, at least).
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