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Old 2016-06-29, 02:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by kamikaze View Post
OK, I have to admit I struggle with the wheel building lingua. My imagination comes short when reading about it. The picture in my head is an old dude who has built racing wheels his entire life, bending the spokes with a spoon handle where they meet.
Yup. That's pretty much what I do with my nipple driver. I only use the driver because I don't have a spoon at my truing stand.

After thinking about it a little more I think it is worth saying that while the tension will bed the spoke heads if you see them moving around while you are working on the wheel it is a sign that there is an improper fit. Either the holes are too large, or the flanges are too thin for the spokes. In the first case you need lower gauge spokes (bigger diameter). In the second case spoke washers will fill the extra space. The large hole problem is not likely to come up in a prebuilt wheel, but I have seen prebuilt wheels that could use washers. Unfortunately the only way to get them into place is to completely disassemble the wheel.
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Old 2016-06-29, 03:15 PM   #32
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Can a lack of stress relieving be the cause of my creaking? Is there a way to detect whether my spokes are stress relieved?

E.g. could I take out one spoke to see if it is bent?
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Old 2016-06-29, 06:01 PM   #33
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Can a lack of stress relieving be the cause of my creaking? Is there a way to detect whether my spokes are stress relieved?

E.g. could I take out one spoke to see if it is bent?
on new spokes the elbow is 90 degrees. The outside spokes on your wheel should have a set that is a bit tighter than that (maybe 70 or so), but it might be hard to see. It might be easier to see if the spoke aims pretty much at the rim when it is laced loose and not attached to the rim, or if it wants to point perpendicular to the axle.
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Old 2016-06-29, 06:22 PM   #34
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If you keep doing all this cool stuff to the spokes to stop the creaking and you still hear the creaking, do you think maybe it's not the spokes? I repeat, in my experience creaking (that sounds just like the spokes) always comes from the crank-taper interface.
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Old 2016-06-29, 07:14 PM   #35
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If you keep doing all this cool stuff to the spokes to stop the creaking and you still hear the creaking, do you think maybe it's not the spokes? I repeat, in my experience creaking (that sounds just like the spokes) always comes from the crank-taper interface.
Ditto to Harper's comment. I went almost mad trying to get my spokes to stop creaking until I realized it was my cranks. I my case, the creaking is happening between the right pedal and the crank, and I only hear it when I apply pressure on the right pedal. I verified that by putting my right crank in a vice and then loosening and re-tightening that pedal. As I both loosened and re-tightening it, I was able to reproduce that dreaded sound perfectly. It did also seem to "ring" through the spokes, but it couldn't have been the spokes or the taper as they were suspended in the air with no effective pressure or torque on them.

I haven't fixed it yet. Not really sure what to do, and it's become a low priority. As Ned Flander's beatnik parents said on an episode of the Simpsons, "We've tried nothin' and we're all out of ideas!". While it is a bit annoying, at least knowing that nothing is mechanically wrong with my uni is a huge relief, and better yet, I can stop trying to mess with the @#$% spokes!
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Old 2016-06-30, 08:33 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harper View Post
If you keep doing all this cool stuff to the spokes to stop the creaking and you still hear the creaking, do you think maybe it's not the spokes? I repeat, in my experience creaking (that sounds just like the spokes) always comes from the crank-taper interface.
I've been working on that front, too. Cleaning and regreasing the interface has no effect. I'm getting some new cranks and I might also try shorter spacers, when I get desperate. But I don't think it's the crank/ISIS interface.

Tensioning the spokes helps after all. They just untension themselves again, the first time I make a turn.
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Old 2016-06-30, 11:59 AM   #37
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Which hub are you using? I once had a similar phenomenon and the noise came from the bearing seat on the hub which was undersize, allowing the bearing to move axially.
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Old 2016-06-30, 12:38 PM   #38
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Which hub are you using? I once had a similar phenomenon and the noise came from the bearing seat on the hub which was undersize, allowing the bearing to move axially.
+1
Also have those spoke sounds before discovering that one of my bearings was sliding on the hub stem.
Then I glued it with a special bearing glue and no spoke noise anymore.
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Old 2016-06-30, 01:12 PM   #39
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Then I glued it with a special bearing glue and no spoke noise anymore.
Which glue did you use?
I shimed the bearing radially with aluminium foil and clampded it axially with spacers to solve this issue.
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Old 2016-06-30, 01:34 PM   #40
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Which glue did you use?
I shimed the bearing radially with aluminium foil and clampded it axially with spacers to solve this issue.
Loctite 603
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Old 2016-07-01, 07:47 AM   #41
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Another option is the hub itself. Some of them are 2 piece design (axle and hub body). If the 2 parts are pressed together, they can start creaking after some time. I had such a hub.
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Old 2016-07-01, 09:42 AM   #42
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I think the KH spirit hub is a single piece design.
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Old 2016-07-01, 09:50 AM   #43
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Yes, correct. If the hub is 2015 or newer.
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Old 2016-07-01, 11:35 AM   #44
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On this forum, there are many posts, and even several entire threads, including one started by me, about KH hubs that creak and eventually fail. This problem went on for years. I think you are right that it was finally fixed in 2015.
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Old 2016-08-09, 03:12 PM   #45
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Just a heads up, after my last tensioning session the creaking got less and less during the following two weeks until it subsided. Now I only get a little creaking after changing the tyre pressure, which disappears after a couple of metres.

The wheel is now far from true (glad I'm not using rim brakes), but it feels much better.
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