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Old 2014-02-20, 05:40 AM   #16
ycamus
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Here I am with a used 26" qu-ax (not qx serie). I love it Thanks for the help...
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Old 2014-02-23, 10:10 PM   #17
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All that is left is probably 24 vs 26 vs 29. I will look at many movies and choose from the riding style I think I will like best !!
I hadn't seen this discussion until now. I was gonna say "depends on the terrain. The less technical, the bigger the wheel can/should be". But then I saw you have decided already (for a 26").

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UPD? Unplanned Dismount?
You guessed right.
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Old 2014-02-23, 11:08 PM   #18
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Here I am with a used 26" qu-ax (not qx serie). I love it Thanks for the help...
Welcome to the wonderful world of MUni! I'm lucky to have an active meet-up group in my area. I wouldn't dream of showing up with my unicycle but I have I joined them on my old Giant Mountain Bike on several occasions to explore our trail system ever vigilant looking for the best MUni lines. They are a nice bunch of guys but I prefer riding my unicycles alone. I'm grooming my own riding group (my children) and they are almost ready. When I do ride my unicycles in off-road bicycling events like the Kentucky Points Series, I find it best to bring along one close friend (usually my wife's uncle) so the race organizers know I'm using the buddy system. He's really cool about waiting. We always finish at the rear of the pack but its all good.

Same question except now riding with roadies. They will always pass you on downhill sections. The geared 36er helps my keep up with my kids riding their bicycles in Cyclovia and Hike, Bike, & Paddle events, but they are quickly gaining on me.
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Old 2014-02-24, 07:19 PM   #19
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Here I am with a used 26" qu-ax (not qx serie). I love it Thanks for the help...
You wont regret it. Muni is great.

The QuAx Muni is a really durable unicycle. If you have one of the older ones they come with really long cranks. It is not much to upgrade these for shorter ones that can give you a little more speed. 150mm is the most common size.

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Old 2014-02-27, 04:43 AM   #20
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W/ the Muni group I ride with there is also usually a wide range of abilities. They usually ride easy to medium trails w/ interesting obstacles once in a while or on the side of the trail.

We would stop at these where the advanced riders would try the challenging obstacle using different lines (the most tech that each could do, or even tricks on/off the obstacle) while waiting for straglers or others to catch their breath.

Intermediate riders would find a very easy line on the obstacle, find another close by, work on some skills, or watch others.
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Old 2014-02-28, 04:44 AM   #21
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I thought may be a 26 " or 29" municycle with disc brake ?
I know you already bought; I was just going to mention that you probably don't need a brake. If you know your trails are steep enough that you aren't comfortable riding down them without one, that's the only reason you should need a brake.

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The QuAx Muni is a really durable unicycle. If you have one of the older ones they come with really long cranks. It is not much to upgrade these for shorter ones that can give you a little more speed. 150mm is the most common size.
150 is probably a really good size for getting used to your new 26". If anything, you might find them a tad long for riding with bikes. Again it depends on your local steepness, and your personal taste. If your trails don't get steep (or not enough to spec for it), you might even prefer to go a size shorter than that.

Of course you live in the area where the next World Championships will be, so I presume there are unicyclists available for you to join up with if you can. Or to buy used unicycles from. I hope we will get to meet you at Unicon 17! It will be the third one hosted in Canada (all in Quebec, BTW), and only the second country to host three or more Unicons.
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Old 2014-02-28, 02:27 PM   #22
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Wow thank you all for sharing! The unicycle community is very supportive!
My 26" has 145 cranks and I will be getting magura rim breaks, leaked, with the seat post fitting for 30$. That's another sign of how much the community is supportive ;-) . I will try to show up at the Unicon for sure. Maybe I can try to come and ride the tracks during the practice runs. Someone even told me I should participate hahaha.
I believe the break will help me get less tired on descends and also I hope it will help me learn to glide.

2 other questions: how much pressure do you put in the tire? Do you ride at normal seat height? Or do you take it down an inch or two?
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Old 2014-02-28, 03:17 PM   #23
Klaas Bil
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I believe the break will help me get less tired on descends
Yes a break helps to get less tired on descends. A break is even more effective on the climbs to make you less tired.
A brake, on the other hand, does also help on descents to get less tired, but is counterproductive on climbs.

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and also I hope it will help me learn to glide.
I don't know how that would work. By definition, with gliding you brake with your foot on the tyre, modulating the foot pressure so you don't fall. I've never heard that using a brake would help.

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2 other questions: how much pressure do you put in the tire?
Depends on your weight, tyre width, the terrain, riding style and personal preference. If the tyre laterally folds ("too much") in corners or sidehops, pressure is too low. If the bounce from the tyre is too small, pressure is too high. Just try it out.

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Do you ride at normal seat height? Or do you take it down an inch or two?
Usually the seat is lowered by one or two inches, compared to the 'ideal' height (leg fully stretched with your heel on the pedal in its lowest position, while seated). The reason is that if the terrain is bumpy, you can take weight off your seat so you won't bounce off. Also, small jumps can be executed seat-in more easily if the seat is lowered. Again, no universal wisdom, so experiment with what you like, not every MUni rider has the same preferences. E.g. if the focus is on climbing, a higher seat tires you out less. Some riders even adjust the seat height before (and then again, after) a long climb.
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Old 2014-02-28, 03:32 PM   #24
ycamus
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Thanks Klaas, for the break, I totally get it now. Hahaha!

My idea for the glide is simply that if I can ride the uni with feet on frame and only use the brake (on a descend), I will get the feeling of the gliding without having to get the proper foot technique...

Anyway: it is -15 deg celcius out there I have to go own my technique, Ride on!!!
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Old 2014-02-28, 03:36 PM   #25
Klaas Bil
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My idea for the glide is simply that if I can ride the uni with feet on frame and only use the brake (on a descend), I will get the feeling of the gliding without having to get the proper foot technique...
But you'd need proper hand technique. Not sure if this is any easier, but give it a try by all means. Once the weather is amenable, that is.
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Old 2014-02-28, 03:58 PM   #26
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My idea for the glide is simply that if I can ride the uni with feet on frame and only use the brake (on a descend), I will get the feeling of the gliding without having to get the proper foot technique...
The reason foot gliding is so much more common than brake gliding is that it is really an extension of other skills. You learn to wheelwalk, then your feet are in position to glide.

Brake gliding is what the folks on freewheel unis are doing. Some consider freewheel unis to be a possible major advancement in the sport. Others, like me, are more skeptical. People riding freewheel MUni blows my mind in much the same way as ultimate wheel MUni. But I digress....
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Old 2014-02-28, 04:00 PM   #27
ycamus
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According to your advice, I tried 16psi. I think I like that the best. I have a 26x2.5 kenda blue groove. Now I hope I do not get snake bites !!
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Old 2014-03-01, 12:59 AM   #28
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But you'd need proper hand technique. Not sure if this is any easier, but give it a try by all means. Once the weather is amenable, that is.
I think its harder to glide w/ the break. I've only ever heard of two riders who've done it: Corbin and I'm blanking on the other's name.
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Old 2014-03-01, 09:32 AM   #29
Klaas Bil
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I think its harder to glide w/ the break. I've only ever heard of two riders who've done it: Corbin and I'm blanking on the other's name.
Quite a few people can ride at speed on an even surface, then lift both feet in the air while applying the brake, and thus coming to a stillstand. From this I'd think that MUni downhill brake-gliding should be doable. But admittedly, I've seen many more riders normal-glide on an even surface than I've seen brake-gliding on an even surface, so you're probably right that MUni brake-gliding is difficult. In fact I thought that too, but I phrased it perhaps too weakly, as in "not sure if this is any easier".
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Old 2014-03-01, 10:32 AM   #30
Uni Lateral
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...how much pressure do you put in the tire? Do you ride at normal seat height? Or do you take it down an inch or two?
Tyre pressure will depend on what you're up to. When riding around the woods, over tree roots and lots of bumps and lumps I drop it to ~20psi. For smoother, harder packed trails I've been riding with it at about 35 - 40psi. A few weeks I put that up to 50psi as I'm extending how far I ride and the harder tyre rolls more easily. This reduction in rolling resistance is at the cost of 'bump absorbtion' so I can go faster, more easily but find the bumps harder. When I get back to the woods again I'll drop it back to 20psi.

Seat hight (and tyre pressure) is something I strongly suggest you play about with and experiment...you'll be amazed at what a difference to your ride it makes. On the really rough stuff I probably have it a little lower than average as I want to be able to easily get off when I UPD (Unplanned Dismount)...when riding distance I prefer to crank the seat hight up as it helps me to get my weight off my legs and into the saddle to make the riding less trying.

Get a pump, a simple pressure gauge and an allen key/hex wrench and try something different every time you go out

UL

PS - I should add that the above is for my 26" Qu-Ax (like yours) and I'm about 90kg.

Last edited by Uni Lateral; 2014-03-01 at 10:34 AM.
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