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Old 2012-06-25, 07:15 PM   #16
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This is a pic of the aluminum tape after test ride. You can see how the knurling of the bearing has left its "imprint", effectively creating and interlocking fit with the cap.

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Old 2012-06-25, 07:16 PM   #17
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I wouldn't trust in this alu thing....

with the titan frame it's even more important to tighten the bearing holder real good (because it's harder then aluminium).... but like this i have no problems even with the disc brakes (with the brand new spirit cranks yes!) but I also heard from Florian, that he will solve the problem on the next generation of hubs.
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Old 2012-06-25, 07:27 PM   #18
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Same for me, don't trust at all in this shim ...
I would prefer to had lot of scratches with a fine point
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Old 2012-06-25, 07:55 PM   #19
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This shim solution also reestablished the necessary gap between the two interfaces that was all but non-existent after the layer of powder coating was blasted off.

Btw, "Scoring" the inside of the caps in an effort to create some "bite" and resistance for the knurled bearing does no good at all, if the space inside is too large, which it was in my case, and Kris's too.

Someone on my fb page suggested a small "grub" screw placed on the inside of the cap, and then making a small indentation (with a drill bit!) in the knurled part of the bearing, which would then basically seat it in that indentation, thus preventing slippage. I personally would not want to do that and take a chance of ruining the bearing, then having to ship the wheel overseas to await repair!

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Last edited by MuniAddict; 2012-06-25 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 2012-06-25, 08:45 PM   #20
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In my case, it really was my fault. I undertightened the bearing housing, then it slipped, and then I did the same thing all over again. So the bearing housing was ground large enough that it no longer holds. Other than the above, personally I have not had a problem with it.
Will be interesting to see how the shim works.
Note - for anyone who has had the knurled surface slip, it's a good idea to clean out the knurling if any bits are stuck in it.

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Old 2012-06-25, 09:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danger_uni View Post
In my case, it really was my fault. I undertightened the bearing housing, then it slipped, and then I did the same thing all over again. So the bearing housing was ground large enough that it no longer holds. Other than the above, personally I have not had a problem with it.
Will be interesting to see how the shim works.
Note - for anyone who has had the knurled surface slip, it's a good idea to clean out the knurling if any bits are stuck in it.

Kris
Thanks Kris, I'll do more testing and get back to you with the results.

So what do you think of using a grub/set screw? You could screw it in through the outside center of the cap (there's already a small hole in the center) then you can adjust it so the the screw intrudes just enough to rest against the knurling lines, thus preventing slippage.

Maybe you could drill out only a very slight indentation (less than 1mm, not enough to go through) in the bearing housing so you'd have a place for the screw's point (or flat spot, depending on which type screw you use) to rest in. Does this sound feasible? If it could be done without damaging the bearing, this might well be a sure-fire way to prevent any slipping, permanently!

One negative thing that could result, would be that continual forward and backward pressure on the bearing could enlarge the indentation, to the point of possibly tearing into the housing of the bearing. But I'm thinking that in combination with the usual clamping effect of the cap and frame would keep things stable and immovable...maybe. And maybe *two* screws could be used, and positioned left & right of center.


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Last edited by MuniAddict; 2012-06-25 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 2012-06-25, 09:34 PM   #22
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The knurled housing is very thin, so a set screw is not really viable.

A design requirement for a physical block is that it fits a standard frame without needing any major installation on the frame, given that the vast majority of riders use a standard hub and we want the KH/Schlumpf hub to be as compatible with as many models of frames as possible.

Like I mentioned this won't be available for a long time since the hubs are produced in batches and there are lots available right now. But what we're planning is this simple solution:
1) No inside lip on lower bearing housing
2) On the hub, the groove on the inside of the knurled bearing only goes 1/2 way around.

The inside lip on the upper bearing housing will sit inside the 1/2 groove. When the lower bearing housing is installed, this should serve as a physical block to keep the knurled surface from turning.

Hence the reason that all the new KH frames have no lip on the inside lower bearing housing.

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Old 2012-06-25, 09:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munirocks View Post
I wonder if a little hole could be drilled in the knurled bearing and a corresponding pin or screw could be stuck in through the bearing holder to keep it in place...
...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouin-bouin View Post
pin must be use only for precise positioning but not for torque resistance, next Schlumpf generation should have a better design if I understood properly the reason on KH2012 bearing cap modification (no more lip on the inside)
I thought a strong pin or screw or maybe two could also be used for torque, not just positioning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MuniAddict View Post
...I used a piece of aluminum tape instead, and it worked great! It's has strong adhesive backing so it won't move once it's in place, but can also be removed easily if necessary... ...Someone on my fb page suggested a small "grub" screw placed on the inside of the cap, and then making a small indentation (with a drill bit!) in the knurled part of the bearing, which would then basically seat it in that indentation, thus preventing slippage...
Sounds very much like my suggestion.

I wouldn't bet on that aluminum tape either. How about just getting new bearing caps?

I'm curious about Florians improvements. I have a feeling my 26er needs an update soonish. It has developed some side to side play recently.
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Old 2012-06-25, 09:39 PM   #24
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Kris solution is the right and final one
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Old 2012-06-25, 09:41 PM   #25
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Amen
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Old 2012-06-25, 09:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouin-bouin View Post
Kris solution is the right and final one
Maybe so, but it's not available yet, and I want to RIDE NOW! So I'll look at my shim thing as a stop-gap, interim solution. It seems to work just fine, and that's the main thing for me right now. Maybe I'll just try not to put extreme force on the bearing until his fix is ready to go.
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Old 2012-06-25, 09:57 PM   #27
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So you're not getting the new disc brake mount frame and cranks?
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Old 2012-06-25, 10:02 PM   #28
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So you're not getting the new disc brake mount frame and cranks?
If you're asking me, no, I like my maggies and will stick with them, at least for now.
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Old 2012-06-25, 10:04 PM   #29
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Yeah, I'm asking you. I'm still debating myself if it's the right thing to do.
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Old 2012-06-25, 10:08 PM   #30
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I think the kh disc brake system is awesome, and if I was getting a new MUni or 36er for the first time, I'd definitely go for it. I just don't feel the need to make a switch in mid-stream, so to speak, when what I have serves me very well. Not broke, don't need fixin'.
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