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Old 2017-04-19, 06:01 AM   #691
lightbulbjim
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Testing fit and alignment.
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Old 2017-04-20, 03:03 AM   #692
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Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't. So long, dBrake!
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Old 2017-04-20, 02:45 PM   #693
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Nice job!!
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Old 2017-04-20, 04:41 PM   #694
chainreactionphysics
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I need to learn to weld!

Is brazing easier to start with? And cheaper?

I could add a brake to my nimbus 11 frame..
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Old 2017-04-21, 11:07 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chainreactionphysics View Post
I need to learn to weld!

Is brazing easier to start with? And cheaper?

I could add a brake to my nimbus 11 frame..
Stick welding is the cheapest, but less versatile than other processes. I did that brake mount with an old stick welder, because it's what I had available, but it's not really the best option for welding thin-walled tubing like using in bicycle and unicycle frames.

Lugged brazing can be very strong. This is how a lot of older bike frames were built. The lug is basically a socket that the tubing fits into, and then the brazing filler metal gets sucked into the very small gap between the tube and the lug via capillary action. Very strong but requires lugs and so not really suitable for hacking. Example:


Lugless brazing is also done sometimes. In this case the filler metal forms a fillet similar to a weld bead. The base metal is still not molten. You need a very tight fitup for a strong joint, and I understand there is some science to the fillet radius in terms of managing strength. Not as strong as welding at first glance, but there is less heat going into the base metal so it can be stronger sometimes. Example:


Fillet brazing can be done with a TIG welder, but usually it's done with a gas torch. With an oxy/acetylene rig you can heat, cut, weld, braze (both fillet and traditional) and silver solder. It's very versatile and a lot cheaper than a TIG setup with all the bells and whistles. TIG can be cheap if you have a more basic setup (scratch start or lift arc), but once you want to use a foot pedal, use AC with high frequency start (for welding aluminium) and have good adjustability it can get pricey.
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Old 2017-06-02, 09:36 PM   #696
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My "new" $40 Craigslister!
This was a one-off, aluminum 29er built by local shop with Alex rim. I replaced the bearings, then added handle bar, Schwalbe Big One, and rattle-can finish. Now it's a fast, light road machine.
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Old 2017-06-03, 01:30 AM   #697
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Sweet! Really nice work there. You'll have some fun on that.
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Old 2017-06-06, 01:19 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newob View Post
My "new" $40 Craigslister!
This was a one-off, aluminum 29er built by local shop with Alex rim. I replaced the bearings, then added handle bar, Schwalbe Big One, and rattle-can finish. Now it's a fast, light road machine.
That looks very nice and fast!
I've almost finished my 27.5er. Won an old Nimbus castle top 29 frame off ebay for £10.49 so got to work, Nimbus steel disc hub, KH freeride rim, Maxxis Aggressor 2.3 tyre, Nimbus alu post, seat clamp and Stadium seat and KH plastic pedals on 125/150 moment cranks.
Can't wait to get a ride on it!

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