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Old 2017-10-30, 02:23 PM   #2086
nathan
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Originally Posted by pierrox View Post
.

Completely unrelated question: anybody out there is using a Schlumpf hub with a disc-brake? How does it feel in high gear?
I rode my G36 from 2008-2012 with a Magura rim brake and braking in high gear was dicey for me. I didn't really trust it. Then when I upgraded to disc (160mm rotor) it was a different story completely. Now I can start off on an unknown downhill with confidence in high gear because I know I can safely slow down if it gets steep. A smoothly work disc brake is really a necessity for me to get the true potential out of the Schlumpf hub.
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Old 2017-10-30, 04:19 PM   #2087
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Pierrox, did you try the grey pads of magura's rim brakes?

They are probably far to be as smooth as disc but they are smoother than the black pads (which are in a softer rubber).
I have them on my muni 29 and on my G36 and can feel a difference with the black one : more progressive, and the positive thing is that you don't have any difference in braking force whether you are in low or high gear.
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Old 2017-11-01, 04:52 PM   #2088
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Originally Posted by nathan View Post
I rode my G36 from 2008-2012 with a Magura rim brake and braking in high gear was dicey for me. I didn't really trust it. Then when I upgraded to disc (160mm rotor) it was a different story completely. Now I can start off on an unknown downhill with confidence in high gear because I know I can safely slow down if it gets steep. A smoothly work disc brake is really a necessity for me to get the true potential out of the Schlumpf hub.
Aside from the brake discussion, I'm curious to know your technique for mounting in high gear. I can barely manage it on a downhill on the G29, couldn't imagine it on a G36
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Old 2017-11-01, 06:23 PM   #2089
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Aside from the brake discussion, I'm curious to know your technique for mounting in high gear. I can barely manage it on a downhill on the G29, couldn't imagine it on a G36
It's not easy to mount in high on a G36 but possible. Harder on uphill, easier on downhill. But I make it a practice to NEVER mount in high gear. It goes back to when I was learning to shift: by mounting in low gear, not only is it easier but guarantees you'll practice shifting at least one more time. I still do it that way.
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Old 2017-11-01, 07:28 PM   #2090
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Originally Posted by Piece Maker View Post
Aside from the brake discussion, I'm curious to know your technique for mounting in high gear. I can barely manage it on a downhill on the G29, couldn't imagine it on a G36
Just remember that you have almost infinite time to get going because the wheel moves so slowly at first. Hop up, get situated, and very gently take your first half-pedal. The second half-pedal is a little faster, and the third faster than that. After that you should be good.
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Old 2017-11-01, 09:53 PM   #2091
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It's the first pedal I struggle with though! I tend to fall backwards Usually if I nail the first stroke I'm good, as you say.

I would agree with never mounting in high gear on a G36, but on a 29 it's a bit more of a skill worth learning I think. Most of the time I want to hop on and shift up ASAP so I can join the flow of traffic!

I've found my most reliable mount is to stand on a curb with the uni off it, and put the cranks at exactly horizontal. Roll it forward, and get my front foot to *slam* on the front pedal so it continues doing so, while leaning all my weight forward. So I guess something similar to how I imagine freewheel uni's need to be mounted.
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Old 2017-11-05, 07:54 PM   #2092
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This has probably been asked before, but I can't seem find it. I'm trying to find the proper spoke tension to use for a 400 series Schlumpf hub and a Numbus Dominator2 29" rim. I will use 2,0 mm round steel spokes in a 3 cross pattern. I'm looking for a number here. I've read that for a 36" wheel, the spoke tension should be somewhere around 20-23 on the Park TM-1 (I've ordered that tension meter, so that's what I'll be using too). Is it the same for a 29" wheel?
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Old 2017-11-05, 08:22 PM   #2093
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For a Nimbus 29" Oracle w/inboard disc and a Dominator 2 rim my #'s are 27 on the left and 21 on the right. (about 150kgf on left and 75kgf on right)

I'm learning myself and received help from Jtrops on the forum. I'm running a 3" tire so there isn't much tolerance for an untrue rim.

From what I understand there is a ballpark tension for wheel size but the rim will confirm the maximum kgf it will tolerate.
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Old 2017-11-05, 08:57 PM   #2094
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Thanks for answering. This will be a symmetrical build, so right and left spoke tension will be the same. I've heard that the rim will confirm the maximum tension too, but the hub is quite expensive so that's my main concern. I can't find any information about spoke tension for the 29" Domintator2 rim at the UDC UK site either.
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Old 2017-11-05, 10:57 PM   #2095
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I've been there before.
I asked the same question to roger from cdk uk when I was bulding my former geared 29er with a kh schlumpf m6xx and a kh rim.
Roger told me between 20 and 22 on the park tool should be fine.
Later, when I built a g36 from the same hub and a dominator 2 36" rim I used those numbers again.
The rim can take more but the hub is another story.
Note that I don't have a 4xx but a 6xx, I don't know if the 4xx is more fragile or not.
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Old 2017-11-06, 08:23 AM   #2096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UniDreamerFR View Post
Roger told me between 20 and 22 on the park tool should be fine.
Thanks UniDreamerFR. I'm not using this one for muni, so probably less stress on the hub if just the spoke tension is even.
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Old 2017-11-06, 09:34 AM   #2097
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Thanks UniDreamerFR. I'm not using this one for muni, so probably less stress on the hub if just the spoke tension is even.
Having spoken to Florian, and done some math, I settled for 19 MAXIMUM when I built mine. Which is what I found on lots of bike wheels too, no need for too much tension. And I agree: even is the most important thing. On mine I'm at 18 to 19 on every spoke.
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Old 2017-11-06, 10:50 AM   #2098
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Having spoken to Florian, and done some math, I settled for 19 MAXIMUM when I built mine. Which is what I found on lots of bike wheels too, no need for too much tension. And I agree: even is the most important thing. On mine I'm at 18 to 19 on every spoke.
Ok, thanks. So I'll be aiming for 19 then. Is that a 29'er pierrox? Is there much difference in spoke tension between 29 and 36? I think I will check the spoke tension regularly on this uni.

My plan is to use a KH 2014 frame with 137 Spirit's and a disc brake. Hopefully this will work. The hub fits, but I will use a grinder on the inside of the frame to get a little more clearence. Don't think it is quite 1mm. Not sure if the disc setup will be a problem, but I absolutely do want a disc brake on this one.
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Old 2017-11-06, 12:52 PM   #2099
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Having spoken to Florian, and done some math, I settled for 19 MAXIMUM when I built mine. Which is what I found on lots of bike wheels too, no need for too much tension. And I agree: even is the most important thing. On mine I'm at 18 to 19 on every spoke.
when I built the 36" wheel I put about 20 but some pokes got very loose, realized it recently.
this time I have put between 22 and 25 and checked the wheel was true enough.
with such numbers I still have some side to side flexibility when I pull or push the tire toward a frame leg, but less than if I put less than 20.

I have a 26" (non geared) wheel where the spokes are tighter : about 27 and the wheel has got less play.
I also have a non geared 29er, the spokes are tight at about 20-22, and it is easier to make the brake pads touch the rim if I pull/push it.

So, for those who use magura rim brakes it's a good thing to limit the side play, otherwise you'll have to put the break pads further from the rim, if you don't you'll probably have it rubing against the rim on incline or during tight turns , or with big road camber I guess , but if you do you'll have less max braking power.
With the G36 the max drops I do are at curb's height, so I think it's ok.

you, pierrox, have an older shlumpf hub, so maybe your flanges are the one that are more fragile.

you, UniMyra you have a 4XX, you probably should ask to florian what are the max numbers for 2mm steel spokes.
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Old 2017-11-06, 01:03 PM   #2100
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Yep that's on a 29" and I have it in a KH frame. The one with the wider crown for fat tires, though it's overkill for the narrow rim I'm using!

You might have to grind a little if it's a newer hub with the woodruff (it's not wood though, but I don't know the name) which prevents the geared side from slipping. Mine is an older hub and it was plug'n play. Can't put a disc on mine as the cranks are close to the frame, and spacers are not recommended on a Schlumpf that was not meant to use them.

Large rims should not have too much tension, they should have less than small wheels. Long spokes are more likely to stretch under tension than shorter spokes. Don't forget that once you're on the uni, you add a lot of tension to the spokes as you are suspended to the top of the wheel from the hub (in summary).
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