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Old 2014-10-16, 12:55 AM   #16
sacherjj
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The Sun belongs to my company, and I'm trying to get the employee that purchased it to do an exchange. But I have no control over that. It wouldn't be something I could take around with me, so I'll need to get one anyway.

It sounds like the Club is definitely an improvement over the Sun for similar money. I'm going to keep a look out for a 20" beater as well.

I really like the idea of getting a 20" inexpensive one, as I think I will move on from it rapidly and I think this would be right up my nephew's alley. He could use it when I move on.

I appreciate all the information. Time for me to look at what money I can put into this and look for used as well.
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Old 2014-10-16, 01:03 AM   #17
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Sounds like you might be able to fix it if you know how to weld.
If I can't get them to exchange it, I think I could possibly braze it. I don't know that my MIG skills would be sufficient. Although at that point, I would have had to re-lace the wheel, so it would make sense to get a compatible new hub.
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Old 2014-10-16, 02:14 AM   #18
song
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Relacing a wheel is pretty feasible. I just did it for the first time the other day, removing my Kris Holm hub and replacing it with a Nimbus hub that UDC finally agreed to give me. Now at last I ride in silence.

Having a cheap 20" around to learn on and then pass to your nephew is a good idea. If you do learn to ride, people around you are going to want to give it a try, and it's nice if you have a small cheap unicycle you can lend out or use for teaching. I still wish I hadn't sold my cheap 20."

If you do go for a Craigslist or Ebay special, this thread is one of many that pretty much go through all the pros and cons. It also tells the really obvious things to avoid. Avenir, in my experience, makes a decent cheap uni. Club is a step or two above it.
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Old 2014-10-16, 03:18 AM   #19
sacherjj
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Relacing doesn't worry me. I've build a few wheel sets for bikes in the past.

Thanks for the thread link on used unis. Good information.
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Old 2014-10-17, 02:03 PM   #20
song
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Oh- one last thing: You may have figured this out already, but in your case, one danger of buying a cheap unicycle is that the seatpost will be too short. That has even been a problem for me, and I'm not even particularly tall. When you buy one of the better unicycles, or from a specialized unicycle website like Goudurix, Hayneedle or Unicycle.com rather than Ebay or Amazon, you can usually select seatpost length. Unicycle.com has an especially good system for figuring out what length you need, and you can always give them a call. Anyway, good luck!
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Old 2014-10-17, 04:41 PM   #21
sacherjj
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I might have a line on a very slightly used Nimbus Mountain 26. Original tire with almost no wear. If this goes through, would something like a Maxxis Hookworm be the best bet to make it road ready for learning?
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Old 2014-10-17, 07:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by sacherjj View Post
I might have a line on a very slightly used Nimbus Mountain 26. Original tire with almost no wear. If this goes through, would something like a Maxxis Hookworm be the best bet to make it road ready for learning?
The Hookworm is a great tire, but if budget is still a concern the CST Cyclops 26x2.4 is virtually the same tire (made by the same company even), and much cheaper.
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Old 2014-10-17, 08:02 PM   #23
LargeEddie
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A used Nimbus 26" muni with a Hookworm is a nice combo. I got one from this forum's Trading Post section and put a Hookworm tire on it not long after I started riding, and did most of my early-stage muni learning on it. The Hookworm does great off road as long as the surface is firm, ie not snow or mud, and takes much less effort than the stock (cast-iron I think) Duro knobby because it's so much lighter.

Some people like it on pavement but I was never much in love with it there. It seemed to want to go its own way and put up a fight about it, maybe more so on a wide muni rim. I built up a wheel with a narrower 700c rim and tire and found I liked that better for road rides. That wheel has its own frame now but also fits in the 26" Nimbus frame and has lived there at times. For a handy guy, you could go that way too. Or you might find that that the Hookworm suits you. (I'm a bit lighter.)

[Jtrops slipped in ahead of me. How expensive are 26" Hookworm tires these days? Seems like I paid less than $30 for mine. But I have a Cyclops on my 24" Sun (24" Hookworms appear to be extinct) and like it too.]

Last edited by LargeEddie; 2014-10-17 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 2014-10-17, 08:16 PM   #24
sacherjj
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Dual wheel set is an interesting idea for the future, if I manage to tame this beast. I think I would keep the 26" even for road.

I'm not light and I like the idea of a 2-2.5" balloon to handle my weight, and not have to run at insane pressures. 700c with a small tire is not much difference for me than running on the rim.

Looks like CST Cyclops is $21 with shipping at Amazon. Hookworm is just under $40 with Prime shipping. Thanks for the heads up on that. The used Nimbus will be a little bit of a stretch cost wise, but I think I'll have a nice Uni for some time. It will also be nice to have it soon.

Last edited by sacherjj; 2014-10-17 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 2014-10-18, 12:01 AM   #25
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Well barter is alive an well. And I have a new Nimbus 26. This thing is a beast. My wife is worried about the tire eating the cat. This seat post is really long. I set it to where I think I can barely, but comfortably reach the bottom pedal and I'm just a cm or two above the tread. Most likely I'm just feeling a little uncomfortable at height and need to get used to it.
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Old 2014-10-18, 12:13 AM   #26
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I forgot to include this in the last post. These pedals look like they might each my shins for breakfast, with the steel studs. Is it a good idea to get an inexpensive plastic learning set? If so, any recommendations?
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Old 2014-10-18, 02:11 AM   #27
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Plastic pedals are a bit better on your shins, but shin guards are a good idea either way. When I started I used a cheap pair of soccer shin guards. I still took a couple of hard hits to my calf, but not too bad. On the plus side my shins were spared many times. The gouges and marks in the shin guards are a testament to that.
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Old 2014-10-18, 02:23 AM   #28
sacherjj
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Oh, it looks like the metal studs are removable with a small wrench. That reduces my concern. I plan on getting some Hillbilly Wrist Guard Gloves, but I haven't figured out shin guards/knee pads yet.
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Old 2014-10-18, 02:24 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by sacherjj View Post
These pedals look like they might each my shins for breakfast, with the steel studs. Is it a good idea to get an inexpensive plastic learning set?
That tire should be OK for learning, but studded pedals can be nasty. I once met a big guy who started riding a 29 with metal-studded pedals before he had much skill, and the scars on his legs showed that he had been carved up pretty badly. When I was learning (with all-plastic pedals on a 20), pedal bites were actually my most serious injury -painful bleeding welts- but that was only for the first day or two of riding. Now I use metal-studded pedals quite happily on my 29, and in fact depend on them, as a large wheel has a lot of rotational momentum that could easily pull the pedals out from under my feet. Shin guards are also an option, though a week after buying a cheap pair, I noticed that they had never taken a single hit, so I put them away.

Congratulations, by the way. That uni sounds like a perfect choice for you. The leverage of those super long cranks should make your first revolutions a lot easier, though if you get into riding on pavement with a smooth tire, you might want to eventually get some shorter ones.
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Old 2014-10-18, 03:35 AM   #30
LargeEddie
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Originally Posted by sacherjj View Post
This thing is a beast. My wife is worried about the tire eating the cat.
Congrats! Yeah, pretty impressive in person, isn't it? That was my reaction too. Looking at pictures on the net hadn't prepared me.

Quote:
This seat post is really long. I set it to where I think I can barely, but comfortably reach the bottom pedal and I'm just a cm or two above the tread. Most likely I'm just feeling a little uncomfortable at height and need to get used to it.
Most likely you're right from the sound of it, but see what you think after a few practices. Seat height is something to keep working with, and what's comfortable will change with experience. You might need to have it on the low side for quick easy bail outs at first.

Quote:
These pedals look like they might each my shins for breakfast, with the steel studs. Is it a good idea to get an inexpensive plastic learning set? If so, any recommendations?
Odyssey Twisted PC pedals are a forum favorite. You might find that swapping pedals is less of a pain than taking out those studs and putting them back in later, and having spare pedals around can be good.

I got soccer shin guards at Target to start out too. They were good for the first week or so, took a few solid hits and saved my shins while I was flailing wildly. After a while when things were more under control, I decided that an occasional nick to the shin annoyed me less than sweating underneath the foam in the summer heat every day.
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