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Old 2014-12-10, 06:53 PM   #451
pierrox
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Originally Posted by fugsworth View Post
The only place I can find them is chainreactioncycles in the UK. I wish they were available in the US.(I'm cheap)
Isn't NukeProof the brand spreading across Europe, where the US market is covered by another brand? (Same stuff, repackaged?)
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Old 2014-12-10, 07:26 PM   #452
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Isn't NukeProof the brand spreading across Europe, where the US market is covered by another brand? (Same stuff, repackaged?)
Yes the Deity, Fyxations, Azonic, and Nukeproofs are all based on the same pedal but each have a few differences. The Nukeproof Evo's from what I can see have a lower spindle height, more pins, sealed bearings and come in the color I want

The spindle sticking up above the rest of the pedal seems to be a complaint with these pedals and I thought maybe the Evo had solved it.

Last edited by fugsworth; 2014-12-10 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 2015-01-22, 10:36 PM   #453
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Origin 8 Ultim-8 Slimline Pedals

I haven't seen a review posted about these pedals:
http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-har...ne-pedals.html

I was looking for a new pair for the muni, and these seemed like they might be good. I just got them yesterday, and put them on and rode with them today at lunch time.
I like them. They look nice. 100 x 108mm platform size.
Thin and light, but seem pretty strong. Aluminum with CroMo spindle. Listed as 308gm for the pair.
Very grippy, but I can still re-adjust my foot (but it's not easy). The pins are replaceable, but they're not adjustable, height-wise -- I think that's about the only negative I'd say at this point.
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Old 2015-01-27, 04:56 PM   #454
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Those look pretty good for sure!
And light, always good.
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Old 2015-01-27, 05:40 PM   #455
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I like that there are pins in the middle. You don't see that on a lot of pedals. Will be good for muddy rides
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Old 2015-12-18, 11:45 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fugsworth View Post
Can anyone confirm that the Nukeproof Electron Evo has solved the taller spindle issue that seemed to be a complaint with the electron, deity compound, and fyxations? Looking at the pictures(orange is Evo) its seems like they have shrunk the spindle down and flattened the ends a little.
I don't know about solved but looks like it'd be better. Less of the spindle area is raised & two more steel pins per pedal.

Even if not, a thinner pedal w/ some high spots & more/longer pins would be preferable to a thicker pedal IMO. There are other all metal equally thin pedals that don't have those high spots, although usually $100+
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Old 2016-01-20, 10:12 PM   #457
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Follow-up review

Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceB View Post
I haven't seen a review posted about these pedals:
http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-har...ne-pedals.html

I was looking for a new pair for the muni, and these seemed like they might be good. I just got them yesterday, and put them on and rode with them today at lunch time.
I like them. They look nice. 100 x 108mm platform size.
Thin and light, but seem pretty strong. Aluminum with CroMo spindle. Listed as 308gm for the pair.
Very grippy, but I can still re-adjust my foot (but it's not easy). The pins are replaceable, but they're not adjustable, height-wise -- I think that's about the only negative I'd say at this point.
Just wanted to leave a follow-up on this review. Doesn't seem like a year has gone by already!
Anyway, I can't recommend these pedals anymore. Here's the deal:
If you look at the picture, you'll see that the end cap is kind of out at the end of a point. At some point I must have banged the pedal on a rock (not an unusual thing to happen) and broke off the cap. I tried to get a replacement, but no response from anyone that I asked.
Also, the design is such that there are no bearings, the tapered body of the pedal just fits closely onto the tapered axle spindle. Not that unusual for these really slimline pedals, but there is just a nut at the end of the spindle, which tends to work its way off after a while. And it's not easily re-tightened -- I had to custom-rework a nut driver to fit down into the spindle cavity.
So that's about it. They are relatively low-cost pedals with high-end features, but with the design shortcuts and poor customer support, I can't recommend them. I still have them on my uni, but I'll be replacing them soon.
Cheers!
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Old 2016-03-29, 11:51 PM   #458
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VP Harrier Pedals

I decided to replace the Origin8s with a pair of VP Harrier pedals. They have the same very-slim profile (12mm) as the others (which I liked), but have other features that looked good.
-- The pedal/axle attachment is protected
-- they have a REALLY wide footprint (120mm)
-- they're light weight (362g per pair)
-- re-build kits are available for them
I got them for about $80 from ebay, so they're in the ballpark with other mid-priced pedals with similar features.

I've gone on a couple of muni rides with them so far, and so far I like them. The large platform was the biggest selling point for me, I hate starting off and then having to stop and start again because of bad foot placement. These are big enough that that hasn't happened (so far). If you have big feet (I wear size 11 five ten Impacts, so they're big but not enormous) you might want to give these a try.
The pins are good, they provide good grip (and they're replaceable).
They come in three colors -- black, red, and silver. I got the red ones. They're pretty snappy.
I don't do big drops, so I can't comment on overall strength. It looks like they were going for light weight with this design, so if you're a "three-foot dropper," you might want to stick with the beefier ones.
(As always, YMMV.) Cheers.

http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-harrier/
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Old 2016-03-30, 12:43 AM   #459
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Since this pedal thread came up I guess I will ask a question here on a problem I have been having for a while. MY left pedal is out of balance and that is the one I bring my foot up to from the ground when I mount. My right is already on the pedal so I always called it a right footed mount. Both static and rolling.

These are the stock metal pinned pedals that came on all my nimbus uni’s. All the reflectors came off many UPD’s ago. It wants to go vertical on me no matter what I do. It is clean and mud free.

On one hand I think it has been good for my mounting by causing me to be able to position the pedal on the fly so to speak. But lately I have been trying to improve the control of my mounting by practicing mounts straight into idles, hops and still stands (really more like slight pauses) to get better control when mounting for Muni and trials. I think it would help if I could keep the pedal parallel to the ground instead of perpendicular to the ground.

The only thing I can think of to do is to start drilling some small holes on the side that wants to go down until it levels out. Any ideas?
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Old 2016-03-31, 01:14 AM   #460
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Most quality aluminum flat pedals have bearings that are slightly sticky because of the seals and never really become loose enough to always be in the same position. Its probably better just to get used to mounting with your pedals in whatever position its in but it sounds like a fun experiment to drill holes or even weight to make it always parallel to the ground. Worst case senario your out a $20 set of pedals.
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Old 2016-03-31, 02:33 AM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockjunkie15 View Post
Most quality aluminum flat pedals have bearings that are slightly sticky because of the seals and never really become loose enough to always be in the same position. Its probably better just to get used to mounting with your pedals in whatever position its in but it sounds like a fun experiment to drill holes or even weight to make it always parallel to the ground. Worst case senario your out a $20 set of pedals.
I agree it has made me better by having to deal with it, but I think I will try to do a static balance like we do on our slotcar armatures just for the heck of it.
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Old 2017-12-25, 02:25 AM   #462
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I've been experimenting with a couple of new pedals lately. I had some cheap pedals on my muni which had developed lots of play. They were completely unserviceable (bodies riveted onto the axles) so they needed replacing.

I picked up some OneUp Composite pedals to replace them.

Pros:
- Easily serviceable.
- Nice wide platform.
- Plastic bodies mean they're light and tough.
- Grippy enough for muni and me.
- They look good (ie subtle).

Cons:
- Convex shape. I find this ok for muni but annoying in other situations (see below).

I tried the OneUp pedals on my 36er as well, expecting to like them enough to ditch the stock Nimbus (AKA Wellgo B108) which I've been running for the last couple of years. I don't mind the Nimbus pedals, but I would find that my feet would slowly migrate around over the course of a multi-hour ride. Also, although they allow easy servicing by using loose ball bearing, they then shoot themselves in the foot by having a plastic dustcap which needs to be pried out with a knife to actually access said bearings. Finally, I wanted to see if a slightly wider platform would help with comfort over longer rides.

Anyway, the OneUp pedals were a no-go on my 36 due to the convex shape. I just wasn't confident that my feet weren't moving around without frequently looking down to check.

So I ponied up and picked up a pair of DMR Vaults for my 36er. They felt like a bit of an expensive gamble but it turns out they actually ride quite nicely.

Pros:
- Easily serviceable.
- Nice wide platform.
- Very comfortable and grippy (concave shape).
- Easily adjustable pins, although after experimenting I ended up just going with the stock setup anyway.

Cons:
- Expensive.
- Ugly and blingy. Great if you're into that but it's not really for me.
- No wrench flats. This is really annoying because the only reason I can think they omitted them was for visual style. I much prefer using a pedal wrench to an allen key for attaching and removing pedals.
- Metal bodies aren't as tough as plastic. I rarely drop my 36er though so I'm not too worried.
- Heavier than plastic if you care about such things, which I don't.

Although I'm being quite harsh on the Vaults, they would be my pick if I had to chose one since they just ride so nicely. That said, I do wish there was a concave version of the OneUps available (or a version of the Vaults which was plastic, less blingy, cheaper and with wrench flats ).
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Old 2017-12-26, 04:39 PM   #463
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DaUniGuy,
Leave the pedals alone.
The pedals aren't the problem.

You said you wanted to learn better control, so do it.
If your pedal goes vertical at rest then when you mount just come in with a slight toe push before you step down on the, now flattened, pedal.

If you don't think that this is possible then try just stomping the pedal down. Your foot will flatten the pedal and force you to make an adjustment after for proper placement. After a bunch of these mounts, I guarantee you will learn where to place your foot for an efficient mount.

Oh ya... start switching sides to mount so you don't have a weak side.

Last edited by Canoeheadted; 2017-12-26 at 04:44 PM. Reason: forgot to specify DaUniGuy
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Old 2017-12-26, 07:38 PM   #464
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Leave the pedals alone.
The pedals aren't the problem.
When I first started practicing jump mounts, I made sure to adjust the pedals so they were parallel to the ground. Then I got lazy and stopped doing it. Since then, I don't believe I've ever had a mounting mishap resulting from a funny pedal rotation. However, there's a big caveat: I don't use really aggressive pins on my pedals. I might be more cautious about mounting into the exact right position if I knew I'd be kind of stuck in it. Mounting onto the edge of the pedal probably won't change the position of your foot by more than an inch for most pedals. In general, I think it's easier to err on the side of landing the foot too close to the toe. Repositioning the foot feels sketchy after mounting closer to the heel.
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Old 2018-02-09, 01:26 PM   #465
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When I first started practicing jump mounts, I made sure to adjust the pedals so they were parallel to the ground. Then I got lazy and stopped doing it. Since then, I don't believe I've ever had a mounting mishap resulting from a funny pedal rotation.
I pretty much had this experience too. I used to stand there setting the pedals up 'correctly' before mounting, which felt a bit dorky and took a lot of time. Now I just jump on and cross my fingers, and it's not failed me yet. The only time I've given it an ounce of concentration was when I used toeclips, and even then the motion of mounting pretty much always flipped the pedals the right way anyway
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