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Old 2012-04-18, 12:03 PM   #16
MonkeyMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewheeldave View Post
Given that it can be a pain to take off without disrupting the patch, is there any reason to not just leave the backing on the patch?
I thought of this before.

Only thing I could come up with was on the basis of elasticity. When the tyre is inflated (or for that matter bounced on etc) the patch will expand with the tube whilst the backing may not. I wonder if this could pull at the edges of the patch (mostly with the plastic backing as opposed to paper) and maybe cause it to peel back?
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Old 2012-04-18, 12:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyMark View Post
I thought of this before.

Only thing I could come up with was on the basis of elasticity. When the tyre is inflated (or for that matter bounced on etc) the patch will expand with the tube whilst the backing may not. I wonder if this could pull at the edges of the patch (mostly with the plastic backing as opposed to paper) and maybe cause it to peel back?
Thats the reason for taking the backing off. I've found that sometimes the backing will stop the patch from stretching with the tube and tear the patch off.
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Old 2012-04-18, 12:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Eddbmxdude View Post
Thats the reason for taking the backing off. I've found that sometimes the backing will stop the patch from stretching with the tube and tear the patch off.
Yay for me, I got something right for once!
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Originally posted by onewheeldave:
Neither unicycles nor dreams should be stuffed into cupboards & left to rot.

Un-branded 20" x 2.125 with 140mm cranks and a nutt buster seat which is now in many many pieces.
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Old 2012-04-18, 01:31 PM   #19
aracer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewheeldave View Post
Given that it can be a pain to take off without disrupting the patch, is there any reason to not just leave the backing on the patch?
Are you trying to take the backing off by lifting from one of the edges? The trick is to rip the backing in the middle - pinch either side of the patch and pull apart, the patch will stretch, the backing will rip (easier than making a hole in the middle as shown in that video). Then lift the backing off from the middle so that you're not lifting an edge of the patch.

Alternatively just get patches without backing - all the ones I've got recently have been like that.

Question for those people fixing punctures out on the trail - do you patch the tube or put a new one in? I'd always just put in a new tube on a bike, but then the wheel is rather more hassle to remove and refit in a uni - we come back to the QR uni wheel clamp ideas.

Last edited by aracer; 2012-04-18 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 2012-04-18, 03:53 PM   #20
mbalmer
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I've never taken the backing off of a patch. Never had any issues.

On a bicycle I always replace the tube. Fix the punctured one later. The only flats I've had on unicycle happened after returning home (knock wood), so no need. I have more issues with getting the tire off the rim than anything else. Some are easy and some require more finger/hand strength than I have.
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Old 2012-04-18, 05:09 PM   #21
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Just replace the tube; I also carry patches, but just in case of double flats, or to help others.
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Old 2012-05-06, 12:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aracer View Post
The smiley means you're joking, right?
Incredibly I got another flat today. A small shard of glass. I was 2 1/2 miles out and called my wife to come get me. Which she did.

However, having been shamed here I resolved not to be thwarted and have to rely on a shop. And what do you know, I managed to get the fork off the hub and replace the inner tube unassisted. And I took it out for a 3 1/2 mile ride without incident so hopefully the tube is in properly and the bolts are properly securing the fork back to the hub.

I'll be taking it out for a 12 mile ride tomorrow morning and I guess that will be a good test.

Thanks aracer - if that really is your name.
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Old 2012-05-06, 06:25 AM   #23
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I always pull the backing off the vulcanising patches before I stick them on as they don't stretch like the patch and tube does so can lead to the patch being pulled off at the edges.

I do use the normal vulcanising patches but do also use the park glueless patches to good effect, if the tube is cleaned well at the hole they work very well indeed.

These days I put some agricultural tyre sealant in my tubes and carry a spare (as well as gluless patches to cover all bases.

JJuggle well done, to many that may a seem a trivial thing to do but then what they can do is trial to somebody else so don't sweat it.

When changing a tube pump it up a little before seating the tyre bead back on this helps to stop you pinching the tube between the rim and tyre and giving yourself another puncture, also worth quickly pushing the tyre bead back and looking that you haven't caught the tube before you pump it back up.

Use that old tube to practice patching on and keep it as a spare when you go riding (I had a tube with 8 patches that was fine to use).
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Old 2012-05-06, 09:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJuggle View Post
Incredibly I got another flat today. A small shard of glass. I was 2 1/2 miles out and called my wife to come get me. Which she did.

However, having been shamed here I resolved not to be thwarted and have to rely on a shop. And what do you know, I managed to get the fork off the hub and replace the inner tube unassisted. And I took it out for a 3 1/2 mile ride without incident so hopefully the tube is in properly and the bolts are properly securing the fork back to the hub.

I'll be taking it out for a 12 mile ride tomorrow morning and I guess that will be a good test.

Thanks aracer - if that really is your name.
Well done- repairing punctures is a very useful skill to have, and, it is somewhat tricky to do when first learning.

As feisty says, putting a little air into the tube when putting it back on the rim and fitting the tyre, is very useful to minimise the chance of getting it caught between the rim and tyre when fully inflating it.

That is something I take a bit of care with, as, if a bit of tube does get caught it tends to explode either while inflating, or, soon after- it's has happened to me a couple of times in the distant past and, it is very unpleasant as it sounds like a gun going off

So, after getting the tyre on, before hitting the pump, I run the entire wheel through my fingers to check there's no issues, then pump a bit more air in, check again, put more air in etc, etc. I also give the tyre a few small bounces on the ground between the pumps- not sure if it actually helps, but I've seen other people do it and just got into the habit.

(Incidently, does anyone know if the bouncing does help, and, if so, how?)
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Old 2012-05-06, 03:11 PM   #25
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Basic unicycle maintenance:

Buy the right tools, and don't buy cheap quality.

Try one job at a time, when you have more time than you need.

Work steadily and methodically.

Remember how things come apart.

Keep loose nuts, bolts and washers in a bowl.

Keep everything clean.

Don't overtighten. The size of the bolt is a clue to how tight it needs to be.

Ride for a short distance then recheck everything for tightness.

Have a go. Most of the routine maintenance is simple.
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Old 2012-05-06, 03:14 PM   #26
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Old 2012-05-06, 05:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewheeldave View Post
Well done- repairing punctures is a very useful skill to have, and, it is somewhat tricky to do when first learning.
I probably got lucky. I slide the tube under the half off tire, pumped the damn thing up all at once, and then reattached the fork to the hub. Next time I will pump it up more slowly and attentively.

But I took it out on a 14 mile ride this morning without incident. I'm glad to have obtained a new skill and not have to rely on someone else to fix this minor problem.

Thanks again to those who provided encouragement.
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Old 2012-05-10, 12:11 AM   #28
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If in doubt ask here, there are no stupid questions just people who are too stupid to ask
corrected.
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