Looking to buy an inexpensive bicycle...

[Chexjc]

My around town/campus bike just crapped out on me. The front chainwheel is bent to the point that the bike is changing gears on its own and it's begun to annoy me. I picked it up for only $20 so I'd rather not bother with it anymore. I'm tired of repairing old bikes and I'd like to buy something cheap that will get me to and from class and in and out of town without any problems. A Mountain or Comfort/Commuter bike would be best.

I have local access to a bike shop and a Wal-mart. I'm going to set my budget at $200 - although the cheaper the better.

I realize the unicyclist community is an odd place to ask for bike help...but I know I'll find help here.

Here are a couple of bikes I've considered:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10088399

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8399245

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4016707

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7694956

Thanks,

Jason

[adjuggler]

If 200 is your range might I suggest a BMX bike? You should be able to pic up something decent for that much, and still have the ability to have fun with it.


Edit- I suggest this because walking into Walmart is not usually something on my fav list. (sorry but I don't like walmart :-/ )

[Chexjc]

If 200 is your range might I suggest a BMX bike? You should be able to pic up something decent for that much, and still have the ability to have fun with it.


Edit- I suggest this because walking into Walmart is not usually something on my fav list. (sorry but I don't like walmart :-/ )

Haha I don't generally like Walmarts either, but the one up here is pretty nice. A BMX bike wouldn't really be ideal with the hills here. However, they rarely have any problems and the pegs would be nice to transport friends. I actually have pegs on my current mountain bike for that reason :).

[saskatchewanian]

Is there a local bike co-op/exchange in your city?

it is usually pretty easy to get a decent bike for cheep if there is somewhere that unwanted used bikes end up. If they have been fixed up by someone who knows what they are doing it should last you quite a while.
I would stay clear of any sub $200 bike with a suspension, you will get a poor suspension which is worse than useless adding places for the bike to break and the quality of the rest of the bike (frame, rims, shifters, breaks etc) suffers to pay for that weak link.

get a nice fully rigid bike, they may not be that popular any more but they are still the nicest for an affordable worry free ride.

[saam]

I'm really loving the Mongoose. Looks the nicest to me. I wouldn't get suspension if you don't need it. Suspension takes some of your pedalling energy and will make it feel alot less efficient, especially the top dual suspension bike (which IMHO looks cheap and a tad try hardish). It also comes with nice slickish tyres, and is 700c which is just plain cool (and if your taller you won't look so gumby on it). If it were I, I'd deffinatly go the Mongoose. Looks like a nice smooth, ridged, efficient ride.

Plus it's the cheapest, so you could buy some cool nick-nacks (ie. lights) for it with the extra. Or put some more money into a nicer helmet :)

[Panotaker]

I would look for a used bike on craigslist. You can probably buy a 5 or 10 year old bike that has hardly been ridden by somebody that paid $1000 for it and used it for a week and never got used to the saddle soreness.

A 10 year old $1000 dollar bike that you can buy for $200 will be 100 times better than any brand new Walmart bike.

[Michaelgoround]

Out of those four you chose I would get the second or the fourth one. I would reccomen getting a touring bike if your just riding around town.

[Chexjc]

Thanks for all the recommendations. I've already checked craigslist, but there is nothing good within a reasonable driving distance. Craigslist is how I found my current bike actually. I'm going to check Wal-mart and the LBS today, I'll try to stay away from any suspension bikes. The 2nd and 4th in that list were the two I was also favoring. The thing I also should've mentioned is that the bike will spend most of the time locked up outside. I'll bring it inside when the winter comes though.

[thejdw]

I would look for a used bike on craigslist. You can probably buy a 5 or 10 year old bike that has hardly been ridden by somebody that paid $1000 for it and used it for a week and never got used to the saddle soreness.

A 10 year old $1000 dollar bike that you can buy for $200 will be 100 times better than any brand new Walmart bike.
+1 you get what you pay for with bikes, you'll love a bike worth over £250 alot more.

[captainkrunk61]

Don't get the Dynacraft. I used to have a bike with a similar frame, and not only was it heavy, but it was a PAIN to put onto bike racks or any other kind of rack because of it's irregular shape.

This is what I have now, a little higher than what your range is, but I love it!
http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/mountain_hardtail/4_series/4300/

[john_childs]

Check if your city has a co-op style shop specializing in used bikes. Seattle has a shop called Bike Works (http://www.bikeworks.org/bws.htm) where you can get a reliable and affordable used bike.

Find a forum or mailing list for a local bike club. Ask them if there is a co-op style used bike shop in the area.

[Chexjc]

Check if your city has a co-op style shop specializing in used bikes. Seattle has a shop called Bike Works (http://www.bikeworks.org/bws.htm) where you can get a reliable and affordable used bike.

Find a forum or mailing list for a local bike club. Ask them if there is a co-op style used bike shop in the area.

I found a somewhat local cycling club who's forum i've posted in. I'll wait to see what they have to say.

What about this bike:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4016707

[Chexjc]

EDIT: Found a GT Palomar 21-speed Mountain Bike on Craigslist. Anyone know anything about this bike?

[kington99]

if you're not going offroad don't buy a mountain bike. They're heavy and cumbersome, and have money wasted on equipment you don't need in them. After 3 years of commuting on a £200 MTB, my £30 retro racer from my local cycling co-op is vastly better in every way.

[maestro8]

Another reason to go with an LBS or co-op is service.

Walmart will likely just send you off with a hastily-assembled bike and a kick in the ass. Cross your fingers and hope the headset doesn't come loose while you're riding.

An LBS or co-op will likely have spent some time going over your bike and ensuring it's well-tuned before letting it out the door. They'll also be more likely to spend some time with you and tell you how to maintain your bike, what to watch for, and may even be nice enough to give you a free tune-up sometime in the future.

Support your local LBS!

Edit: I'll echo what K99 said. After switching from a MTB to a road bike 1/2 way through college, I realized I was lugging around way too much bike for no reason. Get a bike that fits your purpose.

[wickedbob]

Check old flea-markets. I got an old Schwinn (1980's probably) for 20$. I had to put some new tires on it, a seat and that was about it. I've probably put around 400miles on it so far, still going strong. I use mine as a commuter also, works great. As others said get a road bike or the like, they are much nicer for communicating.

[john_childs]

Avoid anything with suspension. You don't need or want suspension for a bike that stays on the road. Suspension just bobs up and down, hampers handling, and makes the bike feel sluggish. Suspension is also something that needs maintenance.

The suspension on Walmart quality bikes is worse than useless. Avoid Walmart quality suspension. The suspension is only for looks and its function is worse than useless (it hampers control).

Another reason to avoid mountain bikes is that they are more likely to get stolen than a boring road commuter bike.

Of the Walmart bikes the only one that looks passable is the Mongoose Paver (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8399245). The problem with that bike is that it has the "comfort" geometry. Comfort bikes are about a more comfortable riding position and anti-performance. The handlebars are higher so you can sit upright. If you end up with a comfort style bike you will likely want to change the stem to lower the handlebars as much as possible. Comfort bikes are also not as maneuverable due to their slacker frame angles and a riding position that puts your weight over the rear wheel and little weight over the front wheel.

[Chexjc]

Of the Walmart bikes the only one that looks passable is the Mongoose Paver (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8399245).

Coincidentally, this is the bike I chose to go with. I figure the simplicity of the 7-speed and lack of suspension will prevent many common issues from appearing. I'm still waiting for "site-to-store" shipping to deliver the bike to my local Walmart.

From what I've read, these bikes come mostly assembled out of the box...but not without need of adjustment. Should I bring it to my lbs to have them properly assemble, check, and lube it up? How much might that cost? I want to pick up a pair of Odyssey Twisted Plastics for it anyway - I can't stand crappy plastic pedals.

[Chexjc]

Bump.

[john_childs]

Check-ups and tune-ups at a bike shop tend to be expensive. If you shop around you may be able to find a shop that will do it for a reasonable cost.

If you're handy and have some basic bike tools you can do much of it yourself.

Some things to check:
The high and low limit screws (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64) on the rear derailleur. The limit screws are what keep the derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes. They're easy to set.

Brake adjustment (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=21) and brake pad alignment.

Put some grease on the seatpost.

Buy some chain oil (tri flow is good) and lightly oil the chain.

Then make sure that nuts and bolts are tight for things like the rear rack and other accessories.

Adjust the handlebar height to fit you. Make sure the bolts on the stem are all tight. You don't want the handlebars slipping while you're riding.

[Chexjc]

Check-ups and tune-ups at a bike shop tend to be expensive. If you shop around you may be able to find a shop that will do it for a reasonable cost.

If you're handy and have some basic bike tools you can do much of it yourself.

Some things to check:
The high and low limit screws (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64) on the rear derailleur. The limit screws are what keep the derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes. They're easy to set.

Brake adjustment (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=21) and brake pad alignment.

Put some grease on the seatpost.

Buy some chain oil (tri flow is good) and lightly oil the chain.

Then make sure that nuts and bolts are tight for things like the rear rack and other accessories.

Adjust the handlebar height to fit you. Make sure the bolts on the stem are all tight. You don't want the handlebars slipping while you're riding.

Okay, thanks a lot for the replies John, I appreciate it.

I'm handy with tools, but my experience with bikes isn't that great. I learned to screw around with derailleurs in my last bike thread, but I'm still not confident.

I'll check with the LBS and if I'm not happy with their prices I'll just leave with the tools to do it myself.

I'll post back when I get the bike I'm sure.

[Chexjc]

Whoahhhhh. These wheels...are HUGE :). I knew 700c would be larger..but I've never actually ridden on a bike so tall, it is awesome! The handle bars don't bother me as much as I thought they would. I think I'll wait a while before I try anything different. After brushing up on my derailler knowledge I was able to perfect the gears. It's so nice to have a bike where all the gears work. Assembly was easy too. I lubed up the seatpost like recommended and I'll be stopping at the bike shop tomorrow to get new pedals and some chain oil.

Thanks again everyone - I'll post a picture of it eventually, it's a pretty good looking bike.

[john_childs]

Whoahhhhh. These wheels...are HUGE :). I knew 700c would be larger..but I've never actually ridden on a bike so tall, it is awesome!

I have a commuter oriented bike with fat 29er road wheels. The wheels are big. A definite difference from a 26" MTB style bike.

[Chexjc]

I purchased some ChainJ chain lube, since the lbs recommended it - given the wet conditions here. They didn't have the pedals I wanted in stock, but those can wait.

Here are a few pics:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3055/2850594173_e6ab3ace3f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3204/2851426694_44bb52f4c4_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/2850594089_7e247e096f_o.jpg

[john_childs]

Tips and tricks to theft protect bicycle components and accesories:

You might want to switch the quick release seatpost binder with a non quick release version. Once you get the seat at the right height you can fill the allen key hole with clear nail polish. That way a thief will have a difficult time stealing the seat. If you need to adjust the seat height later you can use a nail to pick out the nail polish so you can fit an allen key in.

[Chexjc]

Update:

I went ahead and got a new aluminum, (mostly) strait handlebar. The bike feels and looks a lot sportier now, it's much nicer - for my liking.

I also got a new helmet. I didn't like riding around with my skateboard-style helmet. This one is much more comfortable and breezier, haha.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2867216822_6fb540b56f_b.jpg