UDC T7 handlebar / rail unit

[mark williamson]

I bought a UDC T7 for my UDC 36er as soon as it came out. I've taken it on a few short and long rides and really liked it.

My typical riding still doesn't involve pulling on the seat handle at all, really. I bought the handlebars to have somewhere decent to mount my cyclometer / lights / bell / any future brake lever I might have. I also wanted to be able to take my weight off the seat somewhat on long rides, and possibly improve my stability a bit.

The T7 works well for mounting lights. I mounted a Cat Eye bicycle front light underneath the grips and a Cat Eye LED rear on the back handle. The T7 does give good protection to both, although the rear T handle is a little bit narrow to fully protect the Cat Eye horizontal rear light. The front light does experience quite a jolt when the uni falls, which caused mine a bit of damage (although it was very old and worn already) but I didn't find it hit the ground on the level (it would still be vulnerable to rocks / uneven ground). How well protected the lights are obviously depends on shape and size, so your mileage may vary.

The front of the unit allows space for the mounting of a cyclometer and bell. My cheapo cyclometer is pretty easy to read and operate whilst riding - it's nice to know how fast I'm going or how far I've come without having to dismount to read the screen!

Underneath the front section, the T7 has threaded holes to attach a bottle cage to. I've fitted a 500ml thermal bottle under there and found it to be fairly well protected on even ground, although it probably wouldn't be a good idea to mount anything too expensive in there! It does need pushing back in fully after the uni has been dropped.

The rear "handle" provides space for another bottle cage, or perhaps a small frame back to be fitted. Currently I have neither but am intending to install a small mudguard in time for winter!

So, it's great as a holder-of-things. How does it work as a handle? Well, the rear T handle is really useful for pulling the big 36er upstairs by, and for wheeling it on the flat. The front bars are good to rest one or both hands on whilst riding. You'll probably want to buy some bar grips to make them more comfortable, but note that they will also be acting as bumpers when (if!) you drop the uni so don't spend too much on them! With a little practice, I've found it possible to lift myself up slightly whilst riding in order to reduce saddle discomfort.

The other major feature of the T7 is the rail adaptor. In order to use the T7, you have to get a rail-compatible seat post. I bought a Kris Holm post from unicycle.com. The tilt adjustment provided by this is really good. A little experimentation is probably necessary, but tilting the front of the saddle up provides a noticeable improvement in weight distribution for many people. One thing worth noting is that the use of a rail adaptor / seatpost increases the minimum height of the seat. Additionally, if your seat is set very low and far forward it may not be possible to mount a bottle cage on the rear of the handle as it will be too close to the seatpost clamp.

Finally, I can say that the handle appears decently strong - it has held up to plenty of droppings already. The powder coat colour looks much better than it appears in the pictures on UDC UK, being a little darker in shade. The corners of the front bars, and ends of the rear handle are susceptible to chipping when dropped, so I've wrapped these in insulating tape for protection.

Overall, although it costs quite a lot for a uni accessory, I'm definitely pleased to have spent the money. The convenience of having lights and cyclometer well mounted is great, and it's nice to have the bars to hold / lean on. It's cheaper than a GB handle + carbon base + rail adaptor, and involves less dismantling of your saddle. It also allows you to keep your existing front-of-seat handle if you want for added versatility. A worthy choice for commuters and distance riders.

Nice job - congratulations to Roger and the rest of UDC.

[Chrashing]

Great write up, thank you for all the info Mark.

[boo radley]

Great review, this forum needs more like it. Thanks.

[mornish]

I was wondering, can you still use the normal(plastic) handle to hop with?

I'm thinking of trying to use this for muni.


also, does the back bumper get in the way for UPDs?

[mark williamson]

I was wondering, can you still use the normal(plastic) handle to hop with?


I think so. It's possibly not quite so easy to grab with the T7 on there, but it's certainly doable.


I'm thinking of trying to use this for muni.


Yeah, the thought had occurred to me too. I'm not sure how well suited it is though - the T7 handles are quite a way forward... I'm not sure it'd be as good as something like a reeder, but then I've never used a reeder so that's just a guess :-)

Would be really nice to have something like the T7 for long XC rides, especially if you need to do roads as well.


also, does the back bumper get in the way for UPDs?

Neither the front nor the rear handles get in the way when UPDing - at least, they haven't so far!

[mornish]

cool. I might try one out!

[bufo_boreas]

Mark-- Thanks for the helpful review. As a Coker rider who has been reasonably pleased with the GB4 handle for the past two years, I'm very tempted to purchase a T7. --carl (North Dakota)

[kington99]

I was wondering, can you still use the normal(plastic) handle to hop with?

I'm thinking of trying to use this for muni.


also, does the back bumper get in the way for UPDs?

You can, but it's somehow not the same as hopping without the T7, I can't quite hold the handle like i can without it else my knuckle hits the steel tube. I really don't think it would be much good for Muni, the handle is angled wrongly for getting a good rolling hop to clear obstacles. The rear bumper is good for catching when you mess up a rolling mount, my only bug-bear is that the powder gets scratched really quickly because the handle is the first thing to strike the ground.

[mark williamson]

my only bug-bear is that the powder gets scratched really quickly because the handle is the first thing to strike the ground.

Blue PVC tape is your friend - it doesn't show up too much against the frame and guards against chipping. If it wears off, it can easily be replaced.

[Chrashing]

Anyone know the screw thread size for the water bottle holes?

[boo radley]

Anyone know the screw thread size for the water bottle holes?
It doesn't come with the screws?

[Chrashing]

It doesn't come with the screws?

If the T7 had screws I threw them away by mistake. I started looking at water bottles, one bottle had something inside, I'm wondering if those were screws. I need to find a bottle holder that holds the bottle especially secure because the mount is nearly level, not nearly vertical as on a bike.

[kington99]

Bolts aren't supplied, i believe they're M4 threads.

[mark williamson]

My bottle cage came with the screws when I bought it, to my relief. Not sure if they always do...

[rogeratunicycledotcom]

You will notice that depending on the design of the bottle cage it may or may not fit on the rear position. I bent the fittings on mine to get it to fit. The next version I hope to have this fixed. Minor tweek. :-)

Roger

[rob.northcott]

Bolts aren't supplied, i believe they're M4 threads.
I'm pretty sure the bottle bosses on bike frames are usually M5. I would guess that's what they are on the T7 handle.
(but I haven't actually seen a T7 so I may end up looking a fool :o)

Rob

[mark williamson]

Update on the T7: I've had some problems with the bottle cage bosses coming away from the handle. I'm still very pleased with the handle, and am working with Roger to debug this problem.

[kington99]

I'm pretty sure the bottle bosses on bike frames are usually M5. I would guess that's what they are on the T7 handle.
(but I haven't actually seen a T7 so I may end up looking a fool :o)

Rob

Well I'm sure Roger made them a standard size, ad Im only guessing by eye so im sure you're right.

[rogeratunicycledotcom]

They are a standard size and pitch. I have found that some bottle cages (not all) catch on the rear support when they are fitted. I have a modification to the design that will fix this totally but it will not happen until the next batch. My guess is that Mark has one of the bottle cages that catches and this is what instigated the boss to start coming loose... I am also going to ask the manufacturer to beef up the fixing as well.

I will see what we can do for Mark with his. I will sort this with him off the forum.

Roger

[mark williamson]

They are a standard size and pitch. I have found that some bottle cages (not all) catch on the rear support when they are fitted. I have a modification to the design that will fix this totally but it will not happen until the next batch.


This sounds promising, I haven't been able to use the rear mount for a bottle cage, but with my platypus for water, having a 500ml bottle up front for lucozade was more than enough. Still, the ability to mount a couple of bottles may well become very useful during the summer!


I will see what we can do for Mark with his. I will sort this with him off the forum.


Thank you, Roger. Sorry for mentioning it on here, but since my review mentioned the usefulness of the bottle cage mounts I thought it would be worth mentioning I'd had a few minor issues. I was planning on updating here again once we've figured out the best solution.

Again, I'm still very happy with the handlebar unit overall, so no complaints with the general design.

[cathwood]

I've been hesitant to mention this because it's probably a problem with my legs rather than the handle itself. But if I try to mount the nimbus 36er with the handle, in a way other than to freemount (so if I get on with the help of a passing lampost) I often hit my leg against one of the rear arms of the handle. It doesn't happen when I freemount or if I lean on said lampost with my left hand. But if the lampost is on the right and I don't swing my leg out of the way I get bruised on my left thigh. I've put a handle bar grip thingy cut in half over the two arms to try and avoid this and so far, so good.

[Seager]

Anyone have a comparison of this handle placement vs the closer placement on the GB4?

[kington99]

Anyone have a comparison of this handle placement vs the closer placement on the GB4?

Yep (although I've only ridden 26 miles with the GB4). The T7 is obviously further from the front of the seat, but also a fair bit higher. I found it much easier to rest my hands on the handles while riding with this configuration. Whe riding hard i was less bent over whihc meant my back was more comfortable. Also it's stiffer than the GB4 even if it's mounted on a carbon fibre seat base, which I like because it helps to hold your weight of the saddle for comfort. However, I cant rolling mount for toffee holding the T7, and instead hold the KH style saddle handle behind it to mount. I'm deffinitely sticking to my choice of the two.

[BluntRM]

It's a lot like adding a dashboard. :D Thanks for the review Mark.

I really want to get a fatter tire to test how much torque force this will make off-road; it's comfortable for road riding because it sits out so much further, the hand placement feels natural, but it also changes the direction of downward force that a traditonal handle lets you put onto the pedals from your upper body. I'm not sure how this will play out on the trails...

[mark williamson]

It's a lot like adding a dashboard. :D Thanks for the review Mark.


Hope it was useful!

It's very much like having a dashboard. I now have a combined compass / bell, a dial thermometer and a cyclometer mounted up front, with a mount for a front light. The back has my rear light and a crud catcher fitted as a mudguard (it's quite flexible so seems like it might be able to survive the occasional drop OK).


I really want to get a fatter tire to test how much torque force this will make off-road; it's comfortable for road riding because it sits out so much further, the hand placement feels natural, but it also changes the direction of downward force that a traditonal handle lets you put onto the pedals from your upper body. I'm not sure how this will play out on the trails...

Is that a 28"? It works nicely on my 36er - one thing that I'm noticing is that it feels like I can comfortable corner faster with the handle available to hold on comfortably. It's nice to have the space to mount stuff and be able to lift myself out of the saddle.

With the T7, plus my expedition kit even rather long rides become really quite comfortable experiences.

[Chrashing]

I put a 22oz bottle on the front handle of the T7. I was worried that the weight of the water would throw off my riding, but I really didn't notice any difference. I really like being able to reach down and just grab the bottle while riding, it is extremely handy.

Problem is that I've mounted an inexpensive Schwinn's water bottle (http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/accessories_detail.php?id=49) . The bottle stayed in while riding, but I'm sure it will fall out with a upd or even a planned dismount. So I've wrapped an elastic cord around the thin neck of the bottle and T7 bar to hold the bottle in the holder. That makes it a little tricky to remove the water bottle when riding, worst it is very hard to put the back in the holder.

Anyone have a good way to keep the bottle in the bracket, somehow so that the bottle can be removed easily when riding, and held more securely? Maybe I'll need to buy a better/different water bracket, but they all look like they would have a similar problem since they are designed to hold the bottle closer to vertical than horizontal as on the T7.

[Chrashing]

Following up on my the loose water bottle, I tried compressing the frame so it bends to hold the bottle tighter. This will work well if the bend doesn't relax. The bottle is now held tightly. It's such an obvious solution.

[cathwood]

I know it's frivolous, but I can't help it. With my new T7 handle, I have entered the wonderful world of handle bar grips. The variety available is extremely exciting. Much better than the world of valve caps, which seemed to show so much promise, but which I lost faith with after my smilie face valve caps were nicked/borrowed without asking or returning at BUC last year.

[Unitik908]

good review... makes me waiting for it that much harder!

Chase

[boo radley]

My rear bottle cage bosses are no longer useless... I stumbled across a bottle cage with pretty thick mounting brackets, and using a couple washers to push the cage out a little more I was able to get the bottom of the cage to just clear the back plate thing.

[legtod2]

Are you still using it? Any new comments to pass along.

Does the cost justify the use.

How about durability and UPD

[Hazmat]

I had a T7 on my modded coker b4 giving it to my little cousin and he won't even sell it to anyone cause his having too much fun with it. My modded coker included....
- 40" tyre
- Inverted T7 handlebar
- Magnesium pedals
- Bottle holder
and
- Powdercoated with the Australian flag on it.

As for the UPDs, it's best that you gain some experience on other unicycles b4 trying out the coker or 29er as these are not learners machines. But after a while, it becomes to ride and you ride over potholes like it was never there. So UPDs aren't possible. :p

[mouse]

The T7 is great for touring...my only complaint is the bottle cage bosses and how weak they are because of the way they are welded to the handle frame. They snap off over time which sucks :(

The rail itself is invaluable for distance riding as you really need to get your perfect seat angle to do 50+ mile days on a uni.

[Hazmat]

The T7 is great for touring...my only complaint is the bottle cage bosses and how weak they are because of the way they are welded to the handle frame. They snap off over time which sucks :(
B4 i got my T7 inverted, i had a custom made bottle holder in the middle of the handlebars. So breaking the cage wasn't that easy to do. :D

[legtod2]

Is it just UDC or are other vendors out there ?

[BluntRM]

I think it's a UDC original design.

[Hazmat]

I think it's a UDC original design.
I would think that too also. But you never know. :D

[legtod2]

I have a bedford 29" wheel with a 22.2 Seat post.

If I purchase the T7 Handle bar will if fit ?

I recognize that I need the rail post and adapter.
The rail post and adapter specified is a 27.2 KH which won't fit my uni.

Does anyone have a link to the vendor to ask questions?

[Det-riot]

I have a bedford 29" wheel with a 22.2 Seat post.

If I purchase the T7 Handle bar will if fit ?

I recognize that I need the rail post and adapter.
The rail post and adapter specified is a 27.2 KH which won't fit my uni.

Does anyone have a link to the vendor to ask questions?
you would need to buy a rail-type seat post that is a 22.2

[Hazmat]

I have a bedford 29" wheel with a 22.2 Seat post.

If I purchase the T7 Handle bar will if fit ?

I recognize that I need the rail post and adapter.
The rail post and adapter specified is a 27.2 KH which won't fit my uni.

Does anyone have a link to the vendor to ask questions?
This is from Isaac Steiner
If he has a bedford frame which is a 22.2 tube then for a T7 you will need a kris holm post I think and which is 27.2 and then you will need a rail adapter....which is for the Kris Holm post....so it be pretty tricky to get a T7 Handle? :p

[rogeratunicycledotcom]

Just use a 22.2 Seatpost with a rail bracket on the top.

We have the Nelson seat in the UK that will do, although it does need the slots filing a little bit to make the fit really snug.

http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590

Hope this helps.


Roger

[legtod2]

Roger

I am dealing with Darren Bedford for the rail adapter (which bolts on bottom of KH Fusion Freeride seat) and 22.2 seat post.

Is there any measurements or other details to help insure these items fit together?

[mouse]

The rail spacing and so forth that connect the seat post itself to the handle are standard (8mm) for all bicycle rail type posts. You only need to make sure that the post fits your frame and is a rail type post. The post attaches to the bottom of the handle and the seat attaches to the top of the handle with the standard 4 bolt design.

[legtod2]

Thanks everyone. I am going to purchase T7 handle bar from Unicycle.com and rail adapter and seat post from Darren Bedford.

Be cool to see it.

I will be mounted on my Bedford 29" with KH Fusion Freeride seat.

Can't wait.

[rogeratunicycledotcom]

You don't need a rail adaptor if you are buying a T7 handle, it has one built in. You just need the handle and a rail seatpost.

Bike rails: There are actually 3 rail sizes for bike saddles (8mm is the most common) and no actual fixed width! Bikes get away with this because the rails flex when fitting, unicycle rail adaptors can not.

Roger

[legtod2]

Today I ordered my T7 handle. Lets see how quick it gets here.

I'm on the east coast in Canada.

Next posting I will begin with giving some feedback on my daily commute back and forth to work.

With over 150km logged on my 29", it will be interesting to see how it compares with it connected.

Climbing hills, going long distance on bike trails, carrying objects in backpack, freemounting.

More to come.

[legtod2]

Just a preface ordering from Unicycle.com:

I called the 1 800 Unicycle line and asked a bunch of questions before purchasing the T7 bar. Spoke on the line for 5 - 10 mins.

The operator was knowledgable and rides a uni + has a T7 bar on his Uni. As a matter of fact he commutes 10miles to and from work.

He provided good feed back and discussed his commuting using the T7 bar.

I then placed an order via the web and latter received an email with a tracking number for the product.

That's all to report for now, but it was re-assuring to talk to someone about a product who actually uses it.

More to come.

[legtod2]

The product arrived excactly on the day the UPS tracking said it would.

Watching the tracing system it shows it bounced to the west coast, central USA, Canada, back to the central us, back to Canada again, then to me.

Bottom line it got here when promised.

Next report pictures and assembly.

[Hazmat]

The product arrived excactly on the day the UPS tracking said it would.

Watching the tracing system it shows it bounced to the west coast, central USA, Canada, back to the central us, back to Canada again, then to me.

Bottom line it got here when promised.

Next report pictures and assembly.
1) Sweeeeeet!!!!
2) I can't wait. :D

[legtod2]

Well my bar arrived...

23136

Bar by itself.

23137

23138

KH Free ride attached
Notice the Rail seat post and original seat post
23139

23140

All assembled
23141

[legtod2]

Assembly

1) Removal of the original seat post from the KH Freeride seat. That required a 10mm wrench and removal of 4 acron nuts.

2) Position the seat onto the T7 bar and tighten the 4 acorn nuts.

3) Measure original seat post length and cut new rail post seat to same length. Note the rail post does not come with the T7 bar. You need to order that separately. My Bedford 29" required a 22.2 rail post. After shipping, taxes etc the rail post cost me $42.00

4) Attach the rail seat post to the T7 bar. Tightening the rail post required an allen key wrench.

5) Turn the seat upside down and adjust the seat with the allen key so the seat front has a small angle to it. We well adjust this angle to suit our riding preferrence later on.

6) Insert the rail post back into the unicycle and adjust the height of the seat to your personal preference.

7) Adjust again the pitch of the seat (not the height) to suit your riding comfort. I suggest you bring the allen key with you so you can adjust it after your first ride.

8) Take a moment to check the tightness of the for acorn nuts (under the seat) and the two allen screws (to adjust the pitch). Try not to over tighten, just snug.

9) For your first mount, I suggest you brace yourself again a wall so you can recheck height and pitch of seat.

10) Go riding man.

[legtod2]

Ok its all together.

Wow, I really like the idea of being able to change the pitch of bar and seat together.

Under the bar in the front and back are 2 thread holes for connecting stuff (like water bottles).

The width of the Tbar in back and handles in the front have been design so they don't get in the way of freemounting or dismounting. I'll test that theory tomorrow.

I love the look, but the color doesn't match my uni. Take care of that after I rack up some kilometers.

For the price I thought I might get some handle bar grips, oh well, I take care of that later too.

Well lets see whats next, guess I'll move my cyclometer to the bar and get a small red led for the back.

It's raining cats and dogs, expecting Noah to come by any minute to collect two of each animal.

I'll post my first ride to work commute tomorrow.

[legtod2]

Ok, so I broke down and rode anyway last night at 10:00pm.

It was zero degree's perfect temp for a unicycle ride.

I dawned on my helmet with trusty helmet mount light and off I went.

For my first mount I used the side of my car to steady myself and get the jewels and feet positioned properly.

I went with have the pitch of my seat raised in the front slightly so I could sit more to the back of the seat.

Off I went. Travelled two blocks then placed my left hand on the bar to go up a hill. My right arm usually make a pumping action while going up a hill so I settled on on hand on bar the other not. No incident.

Next I traveled 5 km's again left hand on on off the bar. Could not bring myself to have both left and right on bar at the same time.

Typically when I ride my left arm tends to lean towards the front of the unicycle and the right trails behind the unicycle. Not sure why.

Freemounting
Ok this was interesting. I had my backback on with a medium load. Now that my seat has a pitch to it the back end of the seat is lower and less curved. Typically I place the crank at the 5 O'clock position to freemount. Now I had to place it at the 3 - 4 O'clock position to mount. It took me 3 - 4 attempts till my comfort level and correct pedal position for mounting. If my legs are tired then it takes even more attempts. If I get lazy then I use a wall, post whatever is available. Best statement I can make is the handle is not an obstacle for freemounting.

Dismounting
Normally when I dismount, I reach behind to catch the bumper of my seat. Now I can reach behind and catch the T part of the handle. Again the handle bar does not hinder my dismount.

Bunny Hopping
This was kinda wierd. I was a bit concerned to hop due to the rail post seat. In the back of my mind was "Did i tighten the rail post enought". If it wasn't tight enought the seat and post would tilt all the way up and I'd UPD. Nope not a problem. I'll keep an eye on it.
I could barely notice the bar during my hops.

More info to come as I start racking up the kilometers.

[isaac steiner]

Boy that looks nice! I want that now! What kind of post did you buy?

[legtod2]

I got the seat post from Darren Bedford.

[cathwood]

You need to 'pad' your T7 or you'll chip the paint. Handle bar grips on the front and back arms. And some elbow pads on the 'elbows.

[legtod2]

Cathy, could you post a picture of yours with handles and bumper pads.

Thanks.

[lpounds]

If the T7 had screws I threw them away by mistake. I started looking at water bottles, one bottle had something inside, I'm wondering if those were screws. I need to find a bottle holder that holds the bottle especially secure because the mount is nearly level, not nearly vertical as on a bike.
Most bottle cages can be bent to size. You should be able to just put the bottle you use in there and bend the cage tight.

[legtod2]

I am beginning to like this bar.

Especially for up hill climbs and starting up to pick up speed.

So far I only hold the bar with left hand, never with both.

My right arm always wants to act as a balancing beam.

I have resisted the temptation to mount my cyclometer on the bar, for now it can stay on the fork tube. Mostly because my left hand likes to rest in middle of the bar where I wanted to mount it.

UPD and Bar The front bar in the handle grip section has two marks, if I had handle bar grips this would not be and issue. When my front bar hits the ground it changes the pitch of the seat and bar. This is due to my seat post rail is not tight enough. I originally expected this to happen. So I tightened it some more.

Bunny Hopping Bunny hopping and holding onto seat handle no problems. Bunny hopping and holding onto T7 bar = problems. The extra mechanical advantage/leverage from gripping the T7 bar makes the post move and changes the pitch of the seat (Again this is probably due to the post not being tightened enough).

It would be interesting to here comments from others regarding their seat post.

[kington99]

UPD and Bar The front bar in the handle grip section has two marks, if I had handle bar grips this would not be and issue. When my front bar hits the ground it changes the pitch of the seat and bar. This is due to my seat post rail is not tight enough. I originally expected this to happen. So I tightened it some more.

Bunny Hopping Bunny hopping and holding onto seat handle no problems. Bunny hopping and holding onto T7 bar = problems. The extra mechanical advantage/leverage from gripping the T7 bar makes the post move and changes the pitch of the seat (Again this is probably due to the post not being tightened enough).

It would be interesting to here comments from others regarding their seat post.


Using the KH post I have not had problems in either of these situations. The Kh does not rely on friction to hold the angle correct, to rotate the seat I would have to snap one of the bolts. Personally if i have to bunnyhop, and when mounting, i hold the saddle handle, having that much of a lever for my hands throws my balance.

[legtod2]

I have a 22.2 seat post which limits my choices of seat post providers.

Should anyone see a link to providers of 22.2 posts please post them.

Thanks

[Jim]

The Primo Rod Seat Post (http://unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=602) and the KHE Nelson Seat Post (http://unicycle.co.uk/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590) are available in 22.2mm.

jim

[Klaas Bil]

I've bought a new Nimbus 36" with the T7 around April this year. Clocked about 1400 km so far. I really like the thing. I actually bought it mainly because of the rail adapter. After a short getting-used-to period I now almost always ride with both hands on the handlebars. It adds stability to the riding, partly because you actually steer with the handle, and probably also because of the tactile feedback of what the unicycle is doing. At speed it now even feels unstable to ride with no hands on the uni, kind of like biking with no hands. I've never had that on any uni, that no-handing feels unstable.

The only disadvantage of the handle that I see is in the sharply bent elbows of the front handle. In UPD's (as opposed to planned dismounts) I have many times bruised the inside of my legs on these sharp corners. IMHO it would be better if they had rounded corners, like bull's horns. Other than that: kudos for the design!

[isaac steiner]

I got the seat post from Darren Bedford.



What was it called and how much? I might be intrested in the future.

[legtod2]

Your right about the bar Klass_Bill, it really adds stability to the rider on long distance, down hill, uphill climbs, and unexpected whoopdee-doos in the road (especially in the dark).

Since Sept 30th this year I've logged 300Km's on my new 29". About 75 of it using bar.

So far no UPD's problems with bar, no bruises, no mounting problems na-da.
It fits like a glove to uni and my petit frame.

BTW> Thanks Jim for the links.