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View Full Version : Maintaining your Splines!!!


trials_uni
2006-08-17, 11:16 PM
Ive noticed lately that alot of riders(Mostly new riders) are getting new Splined setups and not knowing how to maintain them. Then when they start to creak or break down they come complaining. So ive decided to write a tutorial that outlines how to properly maintain and reassemble a splined crankset and keep it in good working condition.

Im going to cover:
Removing the Cranks and Bearings
Cleaning and Regreasing
Reassembly
How to detect Wiggles and creaks in your uni.

So lets get started.

Removing Cranks and Bearings

Ok we all know that to properly clean and check a hub that the cranks have to come off right? So you have to know how to take them off.

There are 2 kinds of splined cranks. Ones that have pinch bolts, and ones that just slide(Read: Must be pounded) on. Some examples of the pinch bolt ones are: Torker DX, Qu-Ax, and older KH models. Examples of the slide on typer are: Profiles and new KH.

To remove the slide on ones you may need a crank puller to get them off. You can get one at the LBS for about $10 or if you buy Profiles one will likely be provided. Ill go through the steps one by one.
1. Remove the crank bolt by twisting it out of the axel.
2. Thread the crank puller into the crank.BE CAREFUL NOT TO CROSSTHREAD!YOUONLY GET TO STRIP YOUR CRANKS ONCE!!
3. Wind the crank puller around and the crank will slowly come off.
4. Do this to both and you'll be ready for the next step.

Now the Pichbolt designs are characteristically easier to remove but a crank puller still may be needed.
1. Loosen the pinch bolt from the top of the crank. You can take it right out if you like.
2. Remove the crank bolt from the axel.
3. The cranks should now slide off eas it does not use step 2 and 3 from the other crank list
**IMPORTANT** Never use a piece of wood and shove it through your spokes to bash the crank off. it puts a wierd angle on the crank and axel and could cause premature failure.

Now the bearing removal is simple. They should just slide off...But if not then get a beaing puller from an auto parts shop and use it to get the bearings off.

Now your ready for cleaning and regreasing!


Cleaning and Regreasing

You need to keep your splines clean and frshly greased to maintain optimal performance and to help prevent creaks in the setup.

1. Get a rag and clean the gobs of grease off of the splines in the crank and on the axel.
2. Now, using a fresh rag, spray some degreaser on the axel and in the cranks and clean it really well. nuse WD-40. Invest in a decent degreaser, you'll be glad you did. I use Pedros Orange Peelz.
3. Get a hold of some good grease(not auto grease). Id recomend Polylube or Copper Anti Sieze.
4. Apply it to the splines generously, both on the cranks and on the axel.

Now your ready for reassembly!


Reassembly

You cant ride a uni while its in pieces now can you?!

These first steps apply to both slide on and pinch bolt models.
1. Slide your bearings and spacers onto the axel.
2. Slide the cranks onto the axel being careful to keep the left on the left and the right on the right.(this may require a deadblow hammer)

Now it changes. For the slide on models:
1. Put the crank bolt back into the axel(use loctite if you want to)
2. Carefully wind the bolt in. You dont want to strip your axel now do you?
3. Once its in give it a good yank to make sure its good and tight.

And for Pinchbolt models:
1. Put in the crank bolt in just as above being careful not to strip anything.
2. Give it a real good yank to make it tight.
now at this point the crank may still have a bit of a wiggle...Thats what the pinch bolt is for. Wind it into the crank and reef on it real good. That should eliminate the wiggle and fasten your crank completely to the axel.

Now that its back together take it for a real good ride. When you get back make sure that eveything is really good and tight still.


Diagnosing Wiggles and Creaks

Everyone has a problem with wiggles and creaks sometimes. Now you'll know how to diagnose and fix yours!

Wiggles:

A wiggle can happen any time and is often something that should be taken care of right away. So your wondering, "How will i kno if my uni has a wiggle?". the answer is simple. If you kno your uni you will recognize the wiggle as soon as you step on. Some thing just wont feel right.

Some common causes of wiggles are:
1. Crank comming loose.
2. Bearing cap comming loose
3. Axel comming loose from hub.
The first 2 are things that you can take care of easibu tightening the components causeing the problems. The third is something that should be forewarded to your local Uni expert. Dont take it to the LBS, they wont kno what theyre doing anymore than you do.

Creaks:

Creaks are often caused by the crank/axel interface. If your uni is creaking its telling you that its time for an over haul.


So thats all for now. Now you'll have a much better idea of what your doing and will have alot more fun with your splined setup.

If anyone has any comments or additions just add them here.

Hope this helps you guys.

-Phil

Jerrick
2006-08-18, 08:51 AM
Funny, as you wrote this thread out and posted it, I was right in the middle of taking my uni apart and when I looked back at what I did, I was doing pretty much exactly what you described in here.

Great job on the tutorial, it will help everyone who reads it, and some will probably chip in another few hints or tips.

skrobo
2006-08-18, 06:43 PM
why put anti-seize on the cranks if they have a pinch bolt??
it seems that they come off very easily w/o it

maestro8
2006-08-18, 08:21 PM
why put anti-seize on the cranks if they have a pinch bolt??
it seems that they come off very easily w/o it
The primary purpose of anti-sieze is just that: to prevent seizure. Metal that contacts other metal (such as crank and axle) may corrode, and it may corrode to a point where the two surfaces become welded together. Even just the application of excess pressure can causes two metal surfaces to cold-weld.

The secondary purpose of anti-sieze is lubrication. This will aid in the installation and removal of the crank.

Just because your crank comes off easily today does not guarantee it'll come off easily 6 mos. from now.

trials_uni
2006-08-18, 09:24 PM
^ What he said

gkmac
2006-08-18, 09:59 PM
What I'd love to see is step-by-step instructions... with photographs of the cranks and hub in various stages of disassembly. Or even better, a video of someone actually doing it with narration.

I'm one of the very few stupid people who simply cannot comprehend word-only instructions when it comes to doing practical things. I thought it was just cranks on the hub, but there's things like spacers, washers, keyways, pinch-bolts, self-extractors... it means nothing to me!

I've never taken the cranks off my muni at all in the year I've had it, simply because I fear that in doing so I'll end up with unknown looking bits and bobs which I will never be able to put back together.

trials_uni
2006-08-19, 12:22 AM
Im going to make a video tutorial in about 2 weeks. Im also doing a few more video tutorials.
Wheel building, Saddle mods and Maybe CF base drilling.

ackgot
2006-08-30, 05:09 AM
Do you only need to rebuild stuff when you notice problems?
Or is it good to rebuild it every once in awhile like a few months even if there doesnt seem to be a problem?
-begineer + new hoppley

Jerrick
2006-08-30, 05:40 AM
Nice avatar!

Anyways, its good to doing it with a schedule, with me, I ride hard and dirty everyday, going through lots of mud and dirt, water, gravel, dust, lots of junk getting into my splines, so I take my uni and clean and re-grease everything about once a month, sometimes more if I notice some things being to clogged up with dirt.

If your more of a clean rider, then you wont have to maintain your stuff, unless your doing lots of big drops, then that will take more maintenance.

brendan
2006-11-28, 09:57 PM
sorry to ask a question on a really old thread... but does anyone know a good grease and deagreaser that I could find in the UK easily?

trials_uni
2006-12-07, 09:17 PM
Your best bet is to check your LBS and see if they have any and ask what they use.

ivan
2006-12-11, 01:24 PM
Why do you say not to use WD-40? What's wrong with it?

markf
2006-12-11, 08:22 PM
Why do you say not to use WD-40? What's wrong with it?
WD 40 isn't much of a lube. it's a great cleaner though. it displaces water and loosens stuck parts pretty well, but fails as a lube. proper grease o rbetter yet anti-sieze is the proper thing to use.

skrobo
2006-12-13, 03:03 PM
WD 40 isn't much of a lube. it's a great cleaner though. it displaces water and loosens stuck parts pretty well, but fails as a lube. proper grease or better yet anti-sieze is the proper thing to use.
you have the right idea, but it displaces water well, but not grease and anti-seize.
a good degreaser will do a better job
I fixed my DX cranks' wobble!!!!!!!
i got a lock washer about the size to fit on my seat bolts and cut 2 small chunks off of it w/ pliers and stuck them in the split of my cranks at the very end, and now they are wobble free!!
apparently I overtightened them and it bent them, but now it seems to work MUCH better
i havn't gotten it to wobble yet

Borgschulze
2006-12-20, 11:41 PM
What I'd love to see is step-by-step instructions... with photographs of the cranks and hub in various stages of disassembly. Or even better, a video of someone actually doing it with narration.

Is this good? (http://youtube.com/watch?v=1NRikdARhLA)

Yeah I didn't show me cleaning them... but I didn't want to make the video twice as long.

gkmac
2006-12-21, 11:51 PM
What I'd love to see is step-by-step instructions... with photographs of the cranks and hub in various stages of disassembly. Or even better, a video of someone actually doing it with narration.
Is this good? (http://youtube.com/watch?v=1NRikdARhLA)Yes! That's exactly the sort of thing I mean!

All that's needed now is for somebody to make a version of that featuring the KH/Onza hub and cranks (with the extraction rings that unscrew the wrong way) and then I'll be a happy bunny.

trials_uni
2007-01-11, 07:55 PM
Thats great dan...Thanks for making that...It would have taken me a while to get around to it.

maximus unius
2007-01-12, 09:41 PM
QUOTE=borgshulze Ok, now we're gonna take of the arm, and it should just slide right off....now you'll have to give is some force to get back on...[/QUOTE]

Not the exact wording, but those parts made me smile:)

EDIT: darn, the quote didn't work.

Borgschulze
2007-01-12, 10:12 PM
QUOTE=borgshulze Ok, now we're gonna take of the arm, and it should just slide right off....now you'll have to give is some force to get back on...

Not the exact wording, but those parts made me smile:)

EDIT: darn, the quote didn't work.[/QUOTE]
Ok, now we're gonna take of the arm, and it should just slide right off....now you'll have to give is some force to get back on...

Don't know why it made you smile, but ok...

brendan
2007-01-12, 10:43 PM
that was a nice tutorial, i actually learned alot out of it, even if its kinda pointless as i dont have a torker DX crankset or even a pinchbolt crankset.

Can anyone do the same for the Koxx ISIS crankset? I'm guessing the KH moment removal would be pretty similar though but it would be nice to see one

anyways good work, UDC shoudl link that page on their spline maintenance site.

irvinegr
2007-02-25, 02:10 AM
is it pritty much the same thing for 06 KH cranks?? (not ISIS)

ivan
2007-02-25, 07:04 AM
is it pritty much the same thing for 06 KH cranks?? (not ISIS)
It's pretty much the same the same thing for any splined cranks.

wickedbob
2007-03-01, 05:02 PM
How often should that be done?:confused:

ivan
2007-03-01, 05:24 PM
How often should that be done?:confused:
Depends on how much and where you ride. e.g. If you ride on sand a lot, you have to do it more often.

I clean and re-grease mine every two months.

WOFT
2007-03-01, 05:42 PM
Depends on how much and where you ride. e.g. If you ride on sand a lot, you have to do it more often.

I clean and re-grease mine every two months.

How often do you ride? do you ride in sand a lot?

ivan
2007-03-01, 06:26 PM
How often do you ride? do you ride in sand a lot?
About ten hours a week, trials and street.

I ride on rocks that have a bit of sand a few times a week.

thejdw
2007-03-01, 07:24 PM
how do you stop cross threading with an extractor? :confused:

maestro8
2007-03-01, 08:01 PM
I clean and re-grease mine every two months.
Unless you ride on a sandy beach every day, this is a bit excessive. 2x a year should do just fine.

how do you stop cross threading with an extractor? :confused:
Always lube the threads (with a dab of anti-sieze or grease) and start the threading with your fingers. You should be able to turn the extractor 2-3 revolutions with your fingers before using a wrench. If the threads cross you won't be able to turn the nut with your fingers... back out the nut and try again.

Matt_V
2007-04-10, 02:21 AM
I followed this and it worked very well but i have a question.

How do you clean your bearings? They don't come apart but I would imagine that mud and stuff could still get inside them so how would you clean them out and regrease them.

Call me an idiot if this has already been answered but I didn't see it anywhere

ivan
2007-04-10, 05:55 PM
I think you just have to buy new ones. Most bearings are sealed, so you wouldn't be able to take them apart.

Or maybe there's a way and I just don't know about it.

sp4rky-m4rky
2007-04-10, 09:28 PM
thanks, great advise

Unibugg
2007-04-10, 11:04 PM
Thanks for the tutorial. The video maintenance is exactly the kind of help I need too.