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Wheelbuilding - experience of a novice who didn't want to read a book

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  • #31
    Originally posted by UniMyra View Post
    Should I get new spokes, or will the old ones be ok?
    I would go with new ones if money wasn't too tight. Spokes very often (most often?) break because of metal fatigue, and putting in fresh ones now while you're unlacing and re-lacing the wheel gets you a fresh start. You can save a few shekels by reusing them but it's much easier to replace them now than it will be later.

    It's also a chance to upgrade to a better spoke if you think there's something to be gained there. (E.g., double-butted spokes are not only lighter but the extra spring from thinner middle part is said to reduce reversing loads at the vulnerable ends where they tend to break over time.)

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    • #32
      I had to order new ones because I was mistaken about spoke lengths, but thanks for the adwise anyway.
      UniMyra's YouTube channel

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      • #33
        I've finally built my first 36'er wheel, but not without problems. I though it would be a good idea to use threadlock instead of lenseed oil. It was not. Once I had the wheel laced, I could not tighten the nippels because they got stuck. I managed to salvage the spokes, but had to order new nipples. Went back to lenseed oil.

        The threads on the spokes were not equally long, which made the initial thightening a bit more difficult.

        When I started I couldn't quite remember how to lace the wheel, so I made some notes that I'll post her so I'll find it later. I do it like Sheldon Brown and not like the video I linked to in my initial post. The difference is that I get the trailing spokes running on the inside of the flange, which is supposed to be better/stronger.


        36 spokes: 4 groupes of spokes (4 x 9)
        ========================

        The first group

        Look at the hub from the RIGHT side.

        DISHED WHEEL: If this is a dished wheel with an inboard disc rotor on the left side, the LONGEST spokes goes on this side. Put the shortest spokes away so you don't mix them.

        The first group of spokes goes into the hub from the OUTSIDE of the flange on the RIGHT side of the hub.

        Put spokes in every other hole.

        THE FIRST SPOKE: Put the first spoke (key spoke) into the rim in the first hole to the RIGHT of the valve stem hole.

        OFFSET HOLES: If the holes in the rim are offset, you should choose the first or the second hole to the right of the valve stem hole depending on which one is on the right side of the rim.

        Put the rest of the spokes in every fourth hole in the rim.

        The second group

        Look at the wheel from the LEFT side. Turn the wheel so that the valve hole is at the top of the wheel.

        DISHED WHEEL: If this is a dished wheel with an inboard disc rotor on the left side, the SHORTEST spokes goes on this side. Put the longest spokes away so you don't mix them.

        The second group of spokes goes into the hub from the OUTSIDE of the flange on the LEFT side of the hub.

        Install one spoke at a time.

        THE FIRST SPOKE: The first spoke of the second group (the 10th spoke) should go into the rim just to the LEFT of the key spoke (looking at the wheel from the left side).

        OFFSET HOLES: If the holes in the rim are offset, you should put the second spoke in so that there are spokes in the two holes to the left of the valve stem hole.

        (When the 10th spoke is installed, the rim should have to spokes next to each other next to the valve stem hole. The key spoke and the 10th spoke must not cross each other)

        NEXT 8 SPOKES: Install the other 8 spokes in this group following the same pattern.

        The third group

        Look at the wheel from the RIGHT side.

        DISHED WHEEL: If this is a dished wheel with an inboard disc rotor on the left side, the LONGEST spokes goes on this side. Put the shortest spokes away so you don't mix them.

        TWIST THE HUB: Twist the hub CLOCKWISE så that the spoke next to the valve stem hole is angled away from the valve stem hole.

        THE FIRST SPOKE: The first spoke of the second group goes into a random hole on the RIGHT side of the hub from the INSIDE of the flange. This spoke should point in the opposite direktion of the existing spokes. It crosses over to spokes and goes under the third spoke on the same side of the flange. It goes into the rim next to a spoke from the other side of the flange.

        The fourth group

        Look at the wheel from the LEFT side.

        The spokes gos into the wheel following the same pattern as the third group.
        UniMyra's YouTube channel

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        • #34
          Just finished my 5th. wheel. KH Freeride 27.5 rim with a KH Spirit hub.

          According to the spokes calculator, 26.99mm is the correct spoke length. The closest to that I could get from UDC UK was 265mm, so I went with that. From experience, the spokes that are cut and threaded from the factory works better than if you use UDC's cutting and threading service. The spokes came with 16mm nipples and they went about 11mm into the nipples. I asked UDC UK about it, and they said it should be ok.

          As for spoke tension, I read somewhere 100-110 kgf would be good, so I went with 24/25 on the Park Tool tension meter (107/120 kgf).

          The Freeride rim has offset spoke holes, but my lacing description covers that, so no problem.

          After lacing and initial tightening, I got the dishing and truing right. After that, I made sure all the spokes were about 15 on the Park Tool. I then brought the tension up to over 20 and started with the detensioning (I placed the wheel on the ground and stood on it). After that I adjusted the dishing and trued the wheel before bringing the tension up to 24/25 on the Park tool.
          Attached Files
          UniMyra's YouTube channel

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