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Tutorial on how to fremount a 24" and a 36" unicycle

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  • #16
    Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
    One criticism, though, is the constant references to left and right. ..... Saying back-front instead of left-right would've been more universal. Just saying.
    I thought of using the term dominant/non dominant foot, but I have never figured that one out so I went with left/right. Front/back would have been better.
    UniMyra's YouTube channel

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    • #17
      No worries. ; )

      And "dominant, non-dominant" sounds clunky, doesn't it?

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      • #18
        This video has helped me but I don't put my hand on the saddle. I make sure my back pedal/foot are slightly above horizontal. At that angle the pedal seems to stay in place if I put pressure on it before starting. When I hop with my second foot I push up and forward slightly with the back foot while also putting pressure into the seat. My wheel still moves a bit but when every thing comes together I can balance for a second and push off with my second foot/pedal. I feel I'm getting closer to a true static mount.

        Thanks UniMyra
        Last edited by Vertigo; 2014-07-27, 03:43 AM. Reason: Fix something

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        • #19
          I developed the kind of mount in the video by holding onto whatever I could find at hand.

          Fences were good. I could fully brace my forearm along it to keep me steady. As I got better I relied less and less on the support and progressed to the posts supporting street signs which I just gripped in my hand to stop the rollback.

          Eventually I didn't have to hold anything.
          Triton 36" + 29" | KH 29" | KH 26" | KH 27.5" Muni | Nimbus eSport Race 24" | Torker LX 24" | Qu-Ax Luxus 20" | Qu-Ax Profi 20" | KH / Impact 19" hybrid

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          • #20
            I like how this video shows the struggle.

            http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=16

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            • #21
              Thanks for all the good advice. It is interesting to see how different people concentrate on different aspects of the static mount--whatever it takes so they can accomplish the mount. I was trying out the different mantras and hints the other day, and I thought I was getting kind of close, so I tried a FM without holding on to anything or putting a rock behind the wheel--smackdown! Ouch, that hurt. Next time I try that I will put on the elbow pads.

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              • #22
                Hang in there cavernap. I'm finding it a very difficult skill to learn indeed. Protection helps, at least for confidence. I purchased skate knee pads after a bad fall while trying to free mount the first time many weeks ago. Keeping the first foot still seems nearly impossible. Practicing getting comfortable with placing the feet correctly without following all the way through has helped me gain more confidence in my ability to bail if need be. I'm hoping I don't get too stuck on that though. I go back and forth between aided and free mounts. I only hit about 5 - 10%. I did two in class yesterday! The class uni is harder because it has 137mm cranks while mine are 150mm. Both wheels are 24". I have to adjust my technique between the two.

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                • #23
                  foot (at least partially) on crank?

                  A blogger steered me towards yet another YouTube clip of someone doing a static mount, with the blogger saying the “miracle” moment – the spot where the blogger went “a ha!” – came at the 2:15 mark. I watched the clip a few times, paying close attention at 2:15. And then I saw it…

                  The unicyclist in the clip places his first foot/back foot AT LEAST PARTIALLY ON THE CRANK, close to the hub, and the rest on the pedal. This keeps the wheel from moving while he lands his second foot/front foot on its pedal. Once he’s on with both feet, he does a few hops while re-positioning the back foot, off the crank and more onto the pedal where it belongs. Then he takes off.

                  Anyone else mount this way, with your first foot on the crank?

                  EDIT: actually, watching it again, I see that he's also not positioning the seat in his crotch before beginning the mount, which makes for something akin to those "hop on all at once" mounting tricks.

                  Watch at 2:15...
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eah8...?v=Eah8y8uzNf0
                  Last edited by GeddyRulz; 2014-08-11, 08:17 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                    The unicyclist in the clip places his first foot/back foot AT LEAST PARTIALLY ON THE CRANK, close to the hub, and the rest on the pedal. This keeps the wheel from moving while he lands his second foot/front foot on its pedal. Once he’s on with both feet, he does a few hops while re-positioning the back foot, off the crank and more onto the pedal where it belongs. Then he takes off.
                    I tried the mount this afternoon on my KH trials uni. It has big tubular steel cranks with plenty of room to stand. It certainly makes it easy to get up. Now I just have to learn to hop well enough to get my foot back on the pedal.

                    I have previously stood on the crank with my forward foot while I adjust the other foot position. This is easy because you just move your heel onto the crank. I had wondered how it might be useful in a free mount but never pursued it.

                    It is certainly an interesting addition to the armory of tools we need to get on the thing under different circumstances.
                    Triton 36" + 29" | KH 29" | KH 26" | KH 27.5" Muni | Nimbus eSport Race 24" | Torker LX 24" | Qu-Ax Luxus 20" | Qu-Ax Profi 20" | KH / Impact 19" hybrid

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                      EDIT: actually, watching it again, I see that he's also not positioning the seat in his crotch before beginning the mount, which makes for something akin to those "hop on all at once" mounting tricks.
                      I found this one of the most interesting aspects of that mount. The seat isn't much involved so it is good for mounting if the seat is lowered for jumping.

                      I think this has potential for mounts where you are really tight to and fro. But it requires good stationary balance and hopping ability.

                      BTW I initially found success with the mount in the original video was inversely proportional to seat height because it really depended on that downward force.

                      However after a bit of experimenting I found I could put enough downwards force on the seat through my arms. I guess you could say the technique went very slightly down the path of "vaulting" onto the uni.
                      Triton 36" + 29" | KH 29" | KH 26" | KH 27.5" Muni | Nimbus eSport Race 24" | Torker LX 24" | Qu-Ax Luxus 20" | Qu-Ax Profi 20" | KH / Impact 19" hybrid

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                        The unicyclist in the clip places his first foot/back foot AT LEAST PARTIALLY ON THE CRANK, close to the hub, and the rest on the pedal. This keeps the wheel from moving while he lands his second foot/front foot on its pedal. Once he’s on with both feet, he does a few hops while re-positioning the back foot, off the crank and more onto the pedal where it belongs. Then he takes off.
                        Remember that my mounting tips is especially for Muni. This mount requires re-positioning of one or maybe both feet, which is diffcult to do on rough terrain and with spikes in the pedals. Especially when the pedal is beneath your heel - it's easier to move your foot forwards than backwards.

                        If you're looking for alternative mounting techniques, here are two very different ones:

                        Cranks vertical: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5ZEsAokx3k
                        Wheel grab: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm3ajEskNus
                        Last edited by UniMyra; 2014-08-12, 11:43 AM.
                        UniMyra's YouTube channel

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by UniMyra View Post
                          Remember that my mounting tips is especially for Muni.
                          I came to that realization late, after watching your video and a similar YouTube video several times. It really works best when you can DRIVE the wheel into soft ground with the pressure of your weight. Trying to drive the wheel into the pavement, not so much.

                          If you're looking for alternative mounting techniques...

                          Wheel grab: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm3ajEskNus
                          I’m in love with “wheel grab” all over again! Shortly after my above post, I went out for another practice session and repeatedly tried a few different mounting techniques – rollback, tire grab, and the one in the link I shared, with the first foot on the crank. I suddenly became very adept at the tire grab method (“Megan’s Mount”), thanks to two little tweaks: giving the tire a slight roll forward with the hand which holds it during the mount, and more importantly, using the OTHER hand for balance. (Holding that hand in the air above the front pedal works for me in terms of balancing and for putting everything together into one smooth action.)

                          I’m stoked. I’m regularly free-mounting! I’m using Megan’s Mount with as much or more success as using my preferred “cheat” method (putting a 2X4 behind the wheel). Plus, I’m no longer beholden to the 2X4; I’m free, and can easily mount anywhere! How liberating!

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                            It really works best when you can DRIVE the wheel into soft ground with the pressure of your weight. Trying to drive the wheel into the pavement, not so much.
                            I think i works good on any surface when you get used to it.

                            Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                            I’m in love with “wheel grab” all over again!
                            I had never done the “wheel grab” before, because I wasn't comfortable with the forward leaning.

                            So in the middle of writing this I had to go out and give it a go. After a few tries I nailed it maybe 2 out of 3 times, and I have to say that this is a very good mount. Because the "wheel hand" (reference point) is so close to the front pedal, I felt I could place my foot (almost) correctly most of the times. I realized that there are some similarities between the mount I did in the video and the “wheel grab”. In both cases you put weight on the seat when the foot leaves the ground, and sort of "pole vault" on to the uni. Even though I held the wheel, I didn't put any more weight on the back pedal than I did before.

                            Originally posted by GeddyRulz View Post
                            ..using my preferred “cheat” method (putting a 2X4 behind the wheel).
                            I don't see this as a cheat, but as a usefull skill for Muni. Once in a while I need to mount when my wheel is locked between rocks and roots, and mounting when the wheel doesn't move feels quite different.

                            My favourite mount is the tree mount. I have a 100% success rate with that one. :-)
                            UniMyra's YouTube channel

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by UniMyra View Post
                              I think i works good on any surface when you get used to it.
                              Works for me on concrete. black top or rubber track. I haven't tried dirt.

                              For me the key is raising my first foot up a bit as I mount and remembering to lean forward so I don't UPD. Doing it on a slight downward slope helped with the learning process. Made it easier to get the hang of it.

                              I'm getting better with practice!

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                              • #30
                                Tire Grab Method

                                The Tire Grab Method is working just awesome for me. Sometimes I get a false start, but usually that’s due to psychologically trying to “play it safe” and not fully committing to the mount. When I truly go for it, it works every time.

                                I mis-spoke earlier about how I use my other hand (the one NOT holding the tire). I said I hold it in space above the pedal I need to land on, but this isn’t correct. I actually thrust this other hand out in front of the tire, or move my head out in front of the tire, or both. It’s scary if you think about what’s actually happening – you’re essentially diving headfirst over the tire! – but I don’t think about it, I only concern myself with getting some weight out in front of the tire and landing on that second pedal, and I’ve never fallen on my head or otherwise hurt myself while doing the mount. Your center of gravity is still behind you, so you won't fall over frontwards. It’s safe; go for it.

                                I had an epiphany over the weekend, while watching a toddler stand up and walk away. It occurred to me that this mount has similar movements: you fold yourself in half at the waist, with your feet and head down and your ass/seat in the air, make sure both your feet are properly planted, and then you straighten-up your body before traveling. And since this mount is mostly used by beginners, it really could be seen as a “baby steps” mount!



                                Put a unicycle in this kid's crotch, and he'd look like he was doing a Tire Grab Mount.
                                Last edited by GeddyRulz; 2014-08-26, 04:33 PM.

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