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  • Mine's not tubeless right now (I do intend to be able to swap it out on a whim to the road tyre) but it's good to know those gadgets exist. There's not a chance I could've gotten this tyre to seat just with a pump
    It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done. A person ignorant of the possibility of failure can be a half-brick in the path of the bicycle of history.

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    • Regarding tubeless setup: don't buy a tubeless specific pump or air reservoir or compressor.

      I bought an Airshot. Felt pretty smug when I could pump it up and seat the bead of a tubeless tyre with the flick of the valve.

      Then I felt bloody stupid when I realised I could just use the hose off an old track pump connected to a car tyre!

      Try it yourself. The hose internal diameter fits exactly over a tubeless Presta valve. Remove the valve core, slip the hose on, connect to a car tyre until the bead seats then remove the chuck. Pull the hose off and it's totally possible to refit the valve core before all the air leaps out. Top it up to whatever pressure you like.

      It beats every single bespoke solution ever thought up for tubeless inflation. It's a lot easier and safer to top up a high volume low pressure car tyre afterwards than pump a small reservoir to high pressure in advance. The car tyre shouldn't lose too much pressure and you can't overinflate because it will always equalise at less than the pressure you started with.

      Three quid including delivery. I now keep one of these in my tubeless bike's frame bag. Realistically I'd have kept the airshot in the car... why bother when the tyres do the same job!??
      https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beto-Floor-...dp/B071HT2K4G/
      Last edited by rich; 2018-03-13, 06:33 PM. Reason: Found one for three quid not five!

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      • So let me get this straight... You pump a car tyre up to... I dunno, whatever pressure car tyres normally go to. You then hook a hose up from a track pump, schrader valve end onto the car tyre, loose end over the valve on your uni tyre.

        Then quickly whip the hose off and screw your uni's valve core in.

        That's a pretty handy tip, and I'm wondering if it might even work with just two MUni tyres. Get a really high volume tyre like a plus/fatty or a 36er, pump it up insanely hard, and hook your tubeless-to-be valve up to it in the same way, and let 'er rip. Obviously you'd need a lot more pressure in the first tyre than the second (Plus a much higher volume) but is there any reason this wouldn't work?

        The main reason I thought of this instead of a car is, well, I don't own a car and no one in my house does.
        It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done. A person ignorant of the possibility of failure can be a half-brick in the path of the bicycle of history.

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        • Originally posted by Piece Maker View Post
          That's a pretty handy tip, and I'm wondering if it might even work with just two MUni tyres.
          Probably not...
          Most tyres I've set up tubeless make a pop just under 30psi as the bead seats. In theory if you pumped one tyre up to 60psi (presuming it stayed on the rim), two equal volume tyres connected together would equalise at 30psi each.

          But:
          The whole reason tubeless tyres can't just be inflated with a normal pump is that it is difficult to admit air into the tyre faster than it flows out through the as-yet-unseated bead.

          As the pressure delta decreases in the example above, so does the flow rate.
          More than likely you'll end up 'behind the curve' and the bead won't have seated because the inflow wasn't greater than the outflow for long enough. This is also why I remove the valve core. Its' about pressure, volume and rate of flow.

          A car tyre has a much higher relative volume. Even at lowish pressures (30 to 40psi), the threshold pressure where the bead seats is met long before the flow rate drops because the total flow is such a small proportion of the total volume. Even a large muni tyre would probably lose too much pressure (therefore diminish rate of flow) before the bead seats.

          I've made this sound more complicated than it probably is and I would be most pleased to be proven wrong!
          I would just get a large spare wheel from a scrappy and build a nice combination workshop stool/tubeless inflation reservoir if I had no car. Much cheaper than any of the off-the-shelf options!
          Last edited by rich; 2018-03-14, 01:43 PM.

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          • Air

            Its about large volume in short time folks. In my shop I use a tire Cheetah. In the simplest form, its an air tank with 2 valves. 1 small just to fill from a compressor the other a large 1 1/2 with a formed duck bill. This is the discharge used to inflate most any tire. The duck bill aims between the rim and tire bead, not using the valve stem at all. Lots of YouTube vids of this. When some care is used, you can seat most any bead. Most have a gauge to set the tank pressure.. I use 40 - 50 psi in the tank for a fat tire Uni. Up to maybe 100 for a backhoe tire.

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            • Minion DHF 26x2.8 on Nimbus 26" muni

              My 26" Muni is about 2 years old. No brakes, just the plain Nimbus muni with the 42mm wide Dominator 2 stock rim. It came with the Duro WildLife 26x3 tire, a heavy tire that does not wear well with even moderate use on pavement. I wanted a high volume replacement that works well enough in the dirt, can have the pressure lowered, and can suffer use on pavement without the tread disappearing quickly.

              Today I received a Minion DHF 26x2.8 tire in the mail. I chose the 2 compound 60tpi tire, mainly as I read that the lower thread count makes the carcass heavier but the sidewalls more robust.

              It FITS !!!!! I only rode it for a few minutes on the road and on the nearby elementary school rough grass soccer field. I kept the pressure at 25psi because I want the tire to seat properly. So far I have no complaints.

              - Terry O'Leary

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              • Would anyone have any other thoughts or recommendations? .... I'm looking for an aggressive downhill 27.5 x 3.0 (round profile) tire. Happy with the Kenda Havok Pro but I'm on my 2nd set and they don't last over 500 miles. I'm thinking about the Surly Dirt Wizard. I need something that grabs rock faces and corners well without large side lugs (not a Maxxis fan).

                Here's a pretty good summary of plus sized tires (2.80-3.00) I just found: https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mt...untain-bikers/
                Last edited by rrurban; 2018-06-03, 06:42 AM.
                Rob Urban
                KH 29 Schlumpf
                Nimbus 27.5 Oracle
                Nimbus II 26 Muni conversion

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                • Originally posted by rrurban View Post
                  Would anyone have any other thoughts or recommendations? .... I'm looking for an aggressive downhill 27.5 x 3.0 (round profile) tire. Happy with the Kenda Havok Pro but I'm on my 2nd set and they don't last over 500 miles. I'm thinking about the Surly Dirt Wizard. I need something that grabs rock faces and corners well without large side lugs (not a Maxxis fan).

                  Here's a pretty good summary of plus sized tires (2.80-3.00) I just found: https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mt...untain-bikers/
                  I'm a fan of the Schwalbe Nobby Nic. I've mainly only ridden on 2 27.5" tires, the Kenda Havok and the Nobby Nic. I see the Nobby Nic as a huge improvement. The havok wasn't great on high camber trails or smooth sun-baked mud trails. I thought my issue was my riding, but changing tires made a pretty big difference.

                  I can't really speak for durability though. The havok probably lasted over ~500-700 miles. The nobby nic is probably under 200 miles and going strong.

                  I'd also say I can handle the steeper downhill sections with loose rock better on the nobby than I could on the havok. I'm pretty sure I went with the Nobby Nic after reading recommendations here.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by The_SkunkMan View Post
                    I'm a fan of the Schwalbe Nobby Nic. I've mainly only ridden on 2 27.5" tires, the Kenda Havok and the Nobby Nic. I see the Nobby Nic as a huge improvement. The havok wasn't great on high camber trails or smooth sun-baked mud trails. I thought my issue was my riding, but changing tires made a pretty big difference.
                    Nice! I put a Specialized Purgatory Grid on today and it felt pretty good, similar to the Havok just beefier and heavier. The max psi is just 25 and I ride at 22-24 so that's too close and I'm returning it
                    I'll try the Nobby Nic. Thanks for the tip!
                    Rob Urban
                    KH 29 Schlumpf
                    Nimbus 27.5 Oracle
                    Nimbus II 26 Muni conversion

                    Comment


                    • Be sure to catch the APX version of the nobby nic. It has an Apex motocross carcasse which makes the sidewalls stiffer.

                      I had the Specialized Purgatory Control before and it was terrible. Bumpy as hell and much auto steer. The sidewalls were way too weak
                      Last edited by Eric aus Chemnitz; 2018-06-05, 06:02 AM.
                      Einradfahren in Sachsen:
                      einradsachsen.com
                      f/EinradSachsen
                      07.06.2020: Europamarathon

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                      • [QUOTE=I had the Specialized Purgatory Control before and it was terrible. Bumpy as hell and much auto steer. The sidewalls were way too weak[/QUOTE]

                        This is how the Maxxis Ardent feels to me. Auto steers resulting in constant UPDs. People love it though.
                        Rob Urban
                        KH 29 Schlumpf
                        Nimbus 27.5 Oracle
                        Nimbus II 26 Muni conversion

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by rrurban View Post
                          This is how the Maxxis Ardent feels to me. Auto steers resulting in constant UPDs. People love it though.
                          I wonder if it has to do with the width of the rim we are mounting the tire on. I had the same experience (worst auto-steer I have ever encountered) with the Ardent on a 50mm rim. Others claim no autosteer (shrug).
                          My friends, love is better than anger. Hope is better than fear. Optimism is better than despair. So let us be loving, hopeful and optimistic. And well change the world. - Jack Layton

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                          • Oh yes! The Ardent was also terrible. I rode it once for a cross marathon and had to lean sideways for the whole race ...
                            Einradfahren in Sachsen:
                            einradsachsen.com
                            f/EinradSachsen
                            07.06.2020: Europamarathon

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                            • I had a 2.4" Ardent on my 29" wheel and I liked it a lot; I rode it until it wore out.

                              It had the same basic tread pattern as a lot of other Maxxis tires that I also liked a lot, like the High Roller and Rekon. Raised center line, corner knobs. But at the pressures we use the whole tread width is on the ground, so "raised center line" doesn't mean much in practice.

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                              • For the same tire and rim, also pressure can make a big difference between good and bad. Especially in Muni where we tend to ride with pretty low pressure.

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