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Super Schlumpf Slip 'n' Slide... accidental coast & bail!

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  • #31
    My rational for using the shim method is quite simple and straight forward; It fills the space that was left after removing the powder coating, and also after material was ground away during the slipping event(s). They act simply as a "filler" to reestablish the proper I.D.

    The only uncertainty is whether the shims will MOVE or shift inside the caps, or be torn or ripped in some way. So I put traditional aluminum can shims above, and the alum. tape shims on the bottom.

    After a few more test rides I'll inspect them to see which shim holds up better. But if the shims don't move, and the space remains adequately filled, (enough to maintain a sufficient gap between interfaces) then it should definitely stop the slipping.

    And as Kris indicated to me, is not the fault of, or defects in the caps, but in Under-tightening the cap, causing slipping, which in turn grinds away material from the inside of the cap, and making the space too large to hold the bearing tight. So with the shims in place, when the frame and caps come together and provide sufficient clamping of the knurled bearing, under proper torque, it should not slip. So far that is the definitely case.
    Last edited by MuniAddict; 2012-06-26, 12:57 AM.
    Happy Birthday Terry! Every year you get cooler, younger and unicyclier!
    Be our muniprohpet for many years more.
    -Dani Buron


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    • #32
      After several MUni rides using the aluminum tape shim, (on the bottom cap) I have a ride report. Each ride involved a great deal of riding in high gear, and I purposely sought out the steepest hills to ride down, in high, and applied as much back pressure as I could muster, going so far as to try putting the wheel into a downhill skid!

      Of course, I exaggerated the back pressure and applied much more than usual for testing purposes, since I normally would apply the brake to help control the descent. I could not sense even the slightest slip or movement of the bearing inside the cap, and when I got home, I once again inspected the aluminum tape shim, for any signs of wear. I should also add that the cap did not exceed the recommended torque.

      I am happy to report that not only was the shim fully intact, but as the pictures below indicate, the line impressions made from the knurled bearing are absolutely pristine! If there was even the slightest movement, in either direction, those lines would be inconsistent, enlarged or distorted from the bearing moving inside the cap.

      Well, This fix seems to have worked like a charm, and the bearing's knurled surface allows it to create a firm bite into the aluminum shim, effectively locking it in place, under proper torque. And the shim's adhesive backing remains firmly attached, with no signs of softening.

      Click image for larger version

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      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by MuniAddict; 2012-06-28, 02:57 PM.
      Happy Birthday Terry! Every year you get cooler, younger and unicyclier!
      Be our muniprohpet for many years more.
      -Dani Buron


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      • #33
        You should also be fully aware that the "fix" Kris was talking about will only be available on *future* hubs, and NOT something that can be retro fitted to existing S-hubs.
        Last edited by MuniAddict; 2012-06-28, 06:09 PM.
        Happy Birthday Terry! Every year you get cooler, younger and unicyclier!
        Be our muniprohpet for many years more.
        -Dani Buron


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        • #34
          would it be possible to get a bearing that had a non-round outer shell? so perhaps have a splined interface on the bearing outer which fits into splines on the bearing holder or be like a church window shape with a square bottom that could fit into a custom holder so it works with current frames?

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          • #35
            I gave this a try and it did not work for me. It held when on the road, but as soon as I went on a trail it slipped. The odd thing is that when I looked at it the tape looked intacked and there was good impression just like the picture Terry posted.
            "What can possiby mystify a madman?"
            Hegira: Greg Bear

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            • #36
              Originally posted by bouin-bouin View Post
              pin must be use only for precise positioning but not for torque resistance, next Schlumpf generation should have a better design if I understood properly the reason on KH2012 bearing cap modification (no more lip on the inside)
              Was this bearing slip issue solved after 2012? What generation/model#s was this? M600+??
              Rob Urban
              KH 29 Schlumpf
              Nimbus 27.5 Oracle
              Nimbus II 26 Muni conversion

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              • #37
                The M800+ hubs don't have this issue any more.
                Einradfahren in Sachsen:
                einradsachsen.com
                f/EinradSachsen
                07.06.2020: Europamarathon

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                • #38
                  Got tired of my M0525 slipping.... No more slipping ever!












                  P.S.: Dont do this at home!
                  Last edited by jaco_flans; 2018-10-07, 03:02 PM.
                  Jakob F.

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