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The "official" Nimbus Oracle (disc brake) MUni thread

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  • The "official" Nimbus Oracle (disc brake) MUni thread

    I don't start many new threads but I'm taking shipment of a 26" Nimbus Oracle (disc brake) Mountain Unicycle tomorrow and I already have a few questions. There is a lot of good info in the eagle has landed thread and in the Disk Brake 100mm hub thread but I wanted a place for new Oracle owners (I've worded the title to include the 24" Oracle kit as well) to discuss. I've also started a new thread over on the Unicycle Product Reviews side with info about the ordering process, my first impressions, and eventually a full review.

    The first thing to go will be the Duro Wildlife Leopard 26" x 3.0" tire. Nothing against the Duro or UDC's decision to use it, I just don't need that much volume. I have already taken shipment of a Maxxis Downhill HighRoller 26" x 2.50" 1,265(g) Wire Bead TPI 60 with 3C MAXX grip compound. So my first question is about how to change out the tire. Specifically, the interface between the bearing housings and the d'brake mount. Roger provided a nice illustration of the side where the caliper mounts locks down tight to the frame so it should be pretty easy. I guess I'm just a bit nervous (not very mechanically inclined) because leaving a "space" and going "hand tight" has always been drilled into my head.

    My next concern is about getting the rotor back in between the brake pads. I know from having my Impulse in the LBS that you should NOT pull the brake lever with the rotor out of brake. Is there anything else about the brake that I should watch out for? What other complications might I run across with a "simple" tire change?
    My greatest fear is that, when I die, my wife will sell all my unicycles for what I told her they cost.

  • #2
    The nice thing about the D'brake adaptor is that you don't need to remove the brake calliper from the adaptor to remove your wheel. Taking it off is strait forward as is getting it back on. you can tighten it to the same tightness as you would a regular bearing cap but you just don't want a gap on the lip side.

    My green D'brake mount has a fraction of a mm of play in where it sits on the bearing so sometimes I re-center the calliper over the rotor after removing and re-enstalling it but it's usually not necessary.
    My friends, love is better than anger. Hope is better than fear. Optimism is better than despair. So let us be loving, hopeful and optimistic. And we’ll change the world. - Jack Layton

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    • #3
      Party time:

      I dream of hamsters and elderberries

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      • #4
        Wooooo!!!

        Oh yeah. Green machine!
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Wow they look great! Just a thought- have you guys put loctite on the disk bolts? It would suck for them to come loose and have to take off a crank and bearing...
          Last edited by OutdoorJunkie; 2012-04-13, 04:58 AM.

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          • #6
            You cut your hair!

            I mean, nice unicycle Scott!


            I want to get one of those hubs but am pretty heavily invested in the crank mounted disk system. Some day I am sure I will be able to do a back to back comparison.
            My friends, love is better than anger. Hope is better than fear. Optimism is better than despair. So let us be loving, hopeful and optimistic. And we’ll change the world. - Jack Layton

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            • #7
              Originally posted by OutdoorJunkie View Post
              Wow they look great! Just a thought- have you guys put loctite on the disk bolts? It would suck for them to come loose and have to take off a crank and bearing...
              My disc came with bolts with loctite already on them, so that shouldn't be an issue.

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              • #8
                As funky as the green KH is isn't that disc mount on backwards as the pads are not biting the disc properly?

                Try swapping the black IS/post mount adapter around the other way and it will move the calliper down and give the proper pad/disc engagement.

                Sweet Muni's though will hopefully be able to post a LM 24" disc build in a week or so

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                • #9
                  I'm not exactly sure what you're saying here. The PM IS adapter has an up arrow on it and I have it oriented correctly...

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                  • #10
                    Actually you are running a rear 160mm mount which equates to a front 180mm hence why it isn't biting the whole of the disc

                    You need a 160mm front mount or put a180mm disc on (former is the easier)

                    front Deore 160mm and mount
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Rear Deore 160mm and mount (the adaptor you have which you can see fits the disc properly being on the back)
                    Click image for larger version

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                    I have been running discs of all types on my MTBs form almost the day they became available so your set up looked immediately slightly off to me. You will be losing a chunk of power but for us that isn't an issue but you will get accelerated pad wear just on that small contact point

                    I just want you to get the best out your new bits, hope that helps.

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                    • #11
                      OK, now that I look closer I can totally see that the disc is only in contact with a small part of the pad. Will flipping the adaptor around fix that, or do I need to get a front adaptor?

                      Cheers,
                      Scott.
                      Last edited by scotthue; 2012-04-13, 06:09 PM.

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                      • #12
                        No probs, I am enjoying tinkering with yours remotely until I can order mine

                        I see your edit with a ninja edit of my own

                        no swapping it around won't help, that was my initially thought when I first saw your setup before you confirmed the arrow was the correct way.

                        You have two choices the easiest and cheapest is to get a front 160mm is to post mount adapter the other is to put a 180mm disc on which will gives more "power" and a bit more modulation than a 160mm but that will mean a new disc and pulling he bearing off that hub to do the swap.

                        As we don't need more brake power get the new adapter (the link is to a UK site as that's all I know) you might get a local bike shop to just swap it out for you if you get on well with them as they are pretty cheap
                        Last edited by Feisty; 2012-04-13, 06:19 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks to Feisty, my brake is now set up right. I also added the "Turtle's T" KH T-Bar setup.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Glad to help

                            I think the front and rear difference is just to allow you to run a 160mm front adapter on the rear so you can use a 140mm rear disc (I do this on my SS MTB).

                            I just need mine now stupid payday being in the future

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                            • #15
                              All these problems would be avoided if only they made the uni disc adapters in post mount, thus avoiding the need for another adapter for the vast majority of us who are happy to run a 160mm disc (and making no difference to the minority who want to run a larger one). Making them IS mount is a very poor engineering solution IMHO.

                              (I'll keep repeating this comment until somebody takes the hint!)
                              Unicycling: great for your thighs.

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