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  • Eric aus Chemnitz
    replied
    Originally posted by Siddhartha Valmont View Post
    I cannot wait to see your trick for a 2 hands setup
    Just cut the bar ( looks like seat post) 2 inches in front of the stem and put a cheap frame over it, clamped with a seatpost clamp. and there you are...

    Leave a comment:


  • JimT
    replied
    Front Bumper

    I think that one thing missing on off the shelf or homemade handlebars is a dedicated front bumper. They will smack the ground or road sometimes and it make sense, just like a modern unicycle saddle to be prepared for the inevitable.

    On my daily rider I added a tough front bumper to protect the handle. It can slam into the pavement with great speed and force with no damage. On this one the tennis ball (with a little padding inside the ball) will hit the road well before the handle.



    I also made a larger one that serves as a bumper and tool carrier. I can carry all the tools I need including tire pump and patches.

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  • saskatchewanian
    replied
    Elegant and simple. I like that, thanks for sharing

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  • Siddhartha Valmont
    replied
    Nice job!
    I was thinking that there was something to do with bike stems for a custom bar and you just demonstrated that it is viable.

    I cannot wait to see your trick for a 2 hands setup

    Leave a comment:


  • lightbulbjim
    replied
    I like your purple frame!

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  • MrImpossible
    replied
    I finally got around to making my homebrew version of the KH bars. Old bike handlebar, mounted in an adjustable stem, bolted to a stiffener plate I cut and drilled from an aluminum plate.

    The stem is actually mounted backwards vs. a bike, with the handlebar where the steerer tube is supposed to fit.

    No advantage vs. the normal KH setup except cheapness. With tax and shipping, buying a KH bar from UDC would have cost as much as I paid for the unicycle...

    So far it seems OK. I kept the saddle handle because I liked it for riding uphill standing, pulling on the handle. I might swap the bar out for something that works better for 2-handed riding, but we'll see. It seems stiff enough, even though I didn't install 2 of the bolts (didn't have enough long bolts lying around).
    Attached Files

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  • waaalrus
    replied
    I put my original handle on my fixed unicycle and am trying out this new one on my freewheel unicycle. I cut about 2" off the bar and this is the longest the brake hose will reach. Instead of cutting off the top of the T I attached the flexible PVC coupling to a cut off handlebar end.

    Click image for larger version

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  • waaalrus
    replied
    Originally posted by Setonix View Post
    Don't you find it more troublesome to have the brake more to the front? Because of the T-Bar on my 32", the brake handle is also in front of the seat, but when going downhill, it makes balancing a bit more difficult I think. With handle right under the seat, closer to the centre feels better.
    I completely agree that closer to center feels better, especially on the freewheel. My hand position is actually very similar to what it is when the lever is mounted directly under the bumper. It's just turned 90 degrees so that I can use a single index finger to brake. There might be a way to have a differently shaped bar (maybe J) so that the lever could be turned so that it's more like a lever on a mountain bike but that configuration might have more a tendency to snag on legs during a UPD and it might be more difficult to protect the brake hose.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkxpEzgg8Nx/

    Originally posted by Setonix View Post
    Unfortunately waited too long to be able to edit the previous message. Anyways Waalrus, another thing I noticed with your handle bar, where are the handles, there is only a bar
    It may be difficult to see in the photo since it's black but I have a grip on the bar where I hold it. On longer rides when I'm mostly pedaling (vs. coasting or brake-coasting) I put my left hand over the right one just slightly ahead of it.

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  • Setonix
    replied
    Unfortunately waited too long to be able to edit the previous message. Anyways Waalrus, another thing I noticed with your handle bar, where are the handles, there is only a bar

    Leave a comment:


  • Setonix
    replied
    Originally posted by waaalrus View Post
    I made another version with a longer bar which enables me to do one-finger braking.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkvGyYXA5xr/
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkstmctgM0b/
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkvaSZlAOmH/
    Don't you find it more troublesome to have the brake more to the front? Because of the T-Bar on my 32", the brake handle is also in front of the seat, but when going downhill, it makes balancing a bit more difficult I think. With handle right under the seat, closer to the centre feels better.

    Leave a comment:


  • waaalrus
    replied
    Originally posted by waaalrus View Post
    For under the saddle I use two fingers for both power and fatigue and can run out of either. In the new setup I could get away with one finger but in order to do that I'd have to have a slightly longer bar and also a longer hose. So I'm making do with two fingers and feel I have sufficient grip on the bar.
    I made another version with a longer bar which enables me to do one-finger braking.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkvGyYXA5xr/
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkstmctgM0b/
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BkvaSZlAOmH/

    Leave a comment:


  • waaalrus
    replied
    Originally posted by mowcius View Post
    Ahh, that makes sense.

    I've never used a single bar setup like that, or used a lever with more than one finger so that's probably why I don't quite see how it'd be useful.

    Is it primarily for fatigue reasons or power reasons that you use two fingers?

    Regarding leverage, I have tended to use two finger levers but I had been thinking that if I run one under the seat again, I'll probably go to a 4 finger one to get a bit more leverage and reduce fatigue.
    I suspect I may find that I need a disk brake with bite point adjustment as well so that the dead zone with the longer lever is not noticeably larger.
    For under the saddle I use two fingers for both power and fatigue and can run out of either. In the new setup I could get away with one finger but in order to do that I'd have to have a slightly longer bar and also a longer hose. So I'm making do with two fingers and feel I have sufficient grip on the bar.

    Leave a comment:


  • mowcius
    replied
    Ahh, that makes sense.

    I've never used a single bar setup like that, or used a lever with more than one finger so that's probably why I don't quite see how it'd be useful.

    Is it primarily for fatigue reasons or power reasons that you use two fingers?

    Regarding leverage, I have tended to use two finger levers but I had been thinking that if I run one under the seat again, I'll probably go to a 4 finger one to get a bit more leverage and reduce fatigue.
    I suspect I may find that I need a disk brake with bite point adjustment as well so that the dead zone with the longer lever is not noticeably larger.

    Leave a comment:


  • waaalrus
    replied
    Originally posted by mowcius View Post
    I still can't figure out why you'd want to mount the brake lever in reverse as you have done.
    What's the benefit that I'm missing?
    I would argue that this is the forward direction and the way most other unicyclists mount the lever on a bar pointing in the direction of forward movement is backwards (unless they point their thumbs to their body to use the lever). This is the orientation I've usually seen bicyclists use when they have a handlebar that curves. The benefit is that you can get a good grip on the bar whether you're braking or not braking. I find it's much easier to keep two fingers on the lever at all times and then on the rare time that's not necessary (i.e., a steep incline) I can easily grab the bar with my whole hand. In the opposite orientation I don't see how you can have two fingers on the lever without pulling the lever down. Also in that orientation how can you pull up on the bar if you're dirt jumping and still have your hand in a position to brake if necessary when you land? Compared to the under-the-bumper orientation this gives much more leverage and I should be able to go on long descents without tiring my fingers out as much.

    P.S. Here's the latest version of the design: https://www.instagram.com/p/BkVxs_fjTOo/
    Last edited by waaalrus; 2018-06-22, 08:42 PM. Reason: Added P.S.

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  • mowcius
    replied
    Here's a video of the Flamingo in action.
    I still can't figure out why you'd want to mount the brake lever in reverse as you have done.
    What's the benefit that I'm missing?

    Leave a comment:

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