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Custom Made Titanium Frame's and Seatpost's

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  • #76
    Kington, maybe you were involved in a freak accident of some sort, but I have repeatedly attempted to light titanium on fire. Yes, it is flammable, but extremely hard to light. With a zippo, i was only able to get hairlike wisps of swarf (from machining 99% CP-2 [commercially pure] ti) to light. I could get slightly larger bits to light with a butane torch. When it does light, it burns as brightly as magnesium, and cannot be extinguished with water. Use dry sand or kitty litter.

    Admittedly the swarf from hacksaw cuts is like a fine sand, and thus easy to light, but there is precious little of it, and that will not be enough to light the seatpost itself. By the time the seatpost got hot enough to light, the hacksaw blade would glow red and no longer cut.

    Harper is absolutely right about cutting fluid, although I generally hacksaw dry. If you don't have WD-40 (which is not an oil, despite what many seem to think) or any light oils, you can use some thin cooking (canola or olive) oil to get the job done.

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    • #77
      Originally posted by unibikeling
      Hey, just spawn of a new idea...

      Could you make Ti Stiffner plates, and Seat Bases maybe? (for KH style seat). Just wondering. I thought you might be hitting on something bigger if you did it.
      FFS, think about these things before you go post about it. If you dont know what your talking about dont post anything.

      A ti stiffner plate would probably cost more than a CF base, a ti seat base would definatly cost more than a CF one. Plastic bases are flimsy even with a good stiffner plate, they dont come close to the stiffness of a CF base. I dont think you can get any better than a CF base. They dont cost too much, they are realy stiff and they dont break (at least only very very rarely do they).

      EDIT: I will mesure my post, Im 6'2" and ride with a high seat when riding trials SIF, I dont think many people would need anything longer than I have.

      EDIT 2: Mines about 350mm I cant see you would want to go longer than that.
      Last edited by sp4rky-m4rky; 2008-07-06, 07:27 PM.
      Marcus Collings
      *)---', 1mHighJump*
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      • #78
        Originally posted by gerblefranklin
        Kington, maybe you were involved in a freak accident of some sort, but I have repeatedly attempted to light titanium on fire. Yes, it is flammable, but extremely hard to light. With a zippo, i was only able to get hairlike wisps of swarf (from machining 99% CP-2 [commercially pure] ti) to light. I could get slightly larger bits to light with a butane torch. When it does light, it burns as brightly as magnesium, and cannot be extinguished with water. Use dry sand or kitty litter.

        No, I was atually involved with a guy who designs rotary seals for jet engines for Rolls-Royce. One of his main concerns is that using seals that press too tightly on titanium shafts will cause ignition, he was at the time questioning my choice of titanium for an internal combustion engine piston, for this reason. A quick cruise round the internet shows that his concerns are well founded.
        Dave

        - what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -

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        • #79
          i dont think that you could make the titanium hot enough to light it on fire

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          • #80
            Originally posted by Kilian
            i dont think that you could make the titanium hot enough to light it on fire
            Please add to your "to do" list at the bottom of your post: heat titanium to 610 degrees C in oxygen and see if it burns. (Wear sunglasses)
            -Greg Harper

            Nipples...do you ever have enough?

            Change is good. Bills are better.

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            • #81
              maybe on a jet engine it could get hot enough but i dont think it would be a problem cutting it...(i know absolutely nothing about any of this )

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              • #82
                I'm glad to hear you can cut titanium with a fair amount of ease. This definatley makes things a little easier for me.

                So I'm not %100 sure, but I'm probably going to do seatpost's first. Hopefully no one loses interest
                $100 right now if you beat this gap
                Real talk

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                • #83
                  Originally posted by The UniSLAB
                  I'm glad to hear you can cut titanium with a fair amount of ease. This definatley makes things a little easier for me.

                  So I'm not %100 sure, but I'm probably going to do seatpost's first. Hopefully no one loses interest
                  I think seatposts would be your best bet, they could help you build a reputation as well, for more expensive frames in the future.

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                  • #84
                    Originally posted by The UniSLAB
                    I'm glad to hear you can cut titanium with a fair amount of ease. This definatley makes things a little easier for me.
                    This certainly doesn't inspire confidence in any of your prospective customers.

                    What *have* you been talking about with your production guy? Don't you guys discuss these details?

                    Have you guys discussed the tooling required to do your production? That might be an additional cost for you...

                    Nonetheless, if I were you, I'd start compiling a list of questions like these and the answers you get, so that you can send out a "FAQ" with whatever products you end up shipping.

                    Obviously there are few people here that know much about Ti, and you'll want to educate your customers, lest you end up with unhappy people with broken saws and/or unusable seatposts. You can only do that if you document the knowledge you're (hopefully) gaining through your research and development.
                    "The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt." - Bertrand Russell

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                    • #85
                      The 'seatpost-first' idea is a good one - definatelty count me in for at least 2 (27.2, 350mm). All I need to see to be happy to buy are some close-up photos of the welds. I have owned and ridden a few ti mtb frames over the years and if the welds are neat - everything else should be right (no-one is going to painstakingly weld something but not use the correct gas isolation).

                      The best welds I have ever seen were on my (deceased) Kona Hei Hei made by Tisports in the USA, with Litespeed (made by Merlin, again in USA) and Triton a close second. The competition is of a high standard, but that doesn't mean your guy won't match it. If he does aerospace stuff and is a perfectionist that all sounds good to me...

                      I will be interested in a 24 and 36 when the frames come through.

                      IMO avoid bespoke - I would go with off the peg, making things Magura and Schlumpf compatible.

                      Good luck.

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                      • #86
                        ZzzZzZzzzz
                        To be alive at all is to have scars.

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                        • #87
                          Sorry for the delay guys, but I literally haven't had a day to myself yet. I've been steadily busy for the past month racing, practicing, and testing. I'm going to try and get in touch with him today and set something up for tommorow.

                          Thanks for being patient and I hope we can get this rolling shortly
                          $100 right now if you beat this gap
                          Real talk

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