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  • #16
    First, thank you all! This is a great community.

    The easiest test for me was to swap a pedal since I have another unicycle with the same pedal type. Alas, the noise is still there and I can still feel it a bit in the pedal. Possibly something changed very slightly, but I can't be sure since it is not consistent. So now I'm getting the 3/8 drive for the 8mm bolt and I have some penetrating oil. Hopefully that will allow me to get the crank off and then re-tighten. I plucked all the spokes but didn't find any with an obvious problem.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mikefule View Post

      I think a spoke is more likely to break due to insufficient tension. They're designed to cope with tension in a straight line, not be loose and bendy under compression.
      Agree
      If you are female please join the Female Unicyclists! group on Facebook!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Mikefule View Post

        This is the set I use, and they are easily adequate for the hub centre bolts or any other bolts on the unicycle. This is what I'd call "a decent set" where the lengths are roughly proportionate to the torque required.

        If you use this sort instead, I'd agree with you. This is what I'd call "a crummy set" because they're all approximately the same length.
        Yep. Set 1 is ok, 2 not good enough.
        If you are female please join the Female Unicyclists! group on Facebook!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Gockie View Post

          Multi quote doesn’t seem to work. Anyway, I beg to differ on this point. There have been bolts on my unis I haven’t been able to budge with a normal length Allen key. I’ve need the longer ones to loosen them, and I’ve also found some of my bolts kept getting loose while riding whenever I tighten them with the normal length allen keys, and I think this has actually damaged my cranks as they have worked themselves loose and worn their interfaces to the hub while riding.
          The only hex bolt that will need more than a hex key is the crank bolt. I just use a 3/8 socket wrench with a quality hex set. These bolts can be tight, it is vital to only use quality tools, aligned correctly, else risk burring the hex bolt and it will never come out. I have a lot of experience with hex bolts on my Ducati and can't emphasis enough the need for quality tools, aligned correctly and used with force down onto the bolt Of course it it doesn't undo using the leverage of a socket wrench, something is not right. Before getting more leverage follow the advise of others and use penetrating oil, impact wrench or heat.

          But the one really important tip not mentioned so far... are you turning it the correct direction !

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Gockie View Post

            Bugger. I don’t know if your original spokes were bad quality or now some spokes are simply under a lot more tension now. Do you have any thoughts as to why they are breaking?
            Most are original spokes but with over 5000 km on them so mostly just worn out. I think they may have become a little too tight in an attempt some time to ago to find a squeaking noise! Noise was never the spokes, it was peddle bearings. Anyhow, last night I stripped the wheel and rebuilt with 36 new DT Swiss spokes. Actually, I rebuilt the wheel twice as first time I was just about to pump the tyre when I couldn't get the pump on the valve. Bugger, wrong lacing. Now they are clearly less tense then before, a little less than on my 36", so I'll need to monitor. It rides fine I just did 30 km with smooth quiet riding.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by BruceC View Post
              But the one really important tip not mentioned so far... are you turning it the correct direction !
              I believe that only the left pedal is the oddball. Everything else is clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Including the crank bolt that I'm working on here. Correct?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by jswim788 View Post
                I believe that only the left pedal is the oddball. Everything else is clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Including the crank bolt that I'm working on here. Correct?
                On a unicycle, that's correct. The only "left hand thread" is on the left pedal where it screws into the left crank. Absolutely every other thread on the unicycle is clockwise to tighten.

                However, it is possible to get confused when leaning over an upright unicycle, or when it's upside down resting on its seat. It's a strange bit of psychology, but just sometimes you might make the mistake.
                My first novel, Bridge of Otherwhere, Michael Wilkinson, on Kindle. A tale of subtle magic, mystery, friendship and love. Tinyurl.com/Bridge-of-Otherwhere For US$ page: TinyURL.com/OtherwhereBridge

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Mikefule View Post

                  On a unicycle, that's correct. The only "left hand thread" is on the left pedal where it screws into the left crank. Absolutely every other thread on the unicycle is clockwise to tighten.

                  However, it is possible to get confused when leaning over an upright unicycle, or when it's upside down resting on its seat. It's a strange bit of psychology, but just sometimes you might make the mistake.
                  And spoke screws! They really do my head in. Perfectly normal thread but so easy to turn the wrong way!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by BruceC View Post

                    And spoke screws! They really do my head in. Perfectly normal thread but so easy to turn the wrong way!
                    I screwed one in and managed to puncture a tyre, I was turning it in, not out!
                    If you are female please join the Female Unicyclists! group on Facebook!

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                    • #25
                      jjswim788, the last owner of your uni may have put a thread sealer on the bolt. Try putting some heat on the bolt head.

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                      • #26
                        Great news: with the 3/8 socket drive I managed to get the bolt out. Then I swapped cranks with another unicycle (wanted to try longer cranks anyway) and now the noise is gone!

                        I'll have to try the original cranks again at some point. The noise must have been coming from the crank/axle interface.

                        thanks to all of you for your help.

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