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Choosing my second unicycle

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  • #46
    Originally posted by slamdance View Post
    Remove those things or change pedals, asap; unless you are wearing those heavy Chris Holm pads that protect front/back.
    Come now they aren't that bad. I only had a scrape or two from them in the 100s of UPDs I've had. Most of the time I am happy they are there, because they make my shoes stick to the pedals. Now I bought a QuAx 24" which doesn't have them and when riding up a semi-steep hill, when my leaning isn't good, my feet slip off.
    The most frustrating thing I remember from going from 20-26 was that free-mounting seemed impossible. Took me maybe a week to get the hang of it. By that time I was only 5 or 6 weeks into unicycling.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by slamdance View Post
      I remember my 2nd unicycle went from 20" torker to 24" nimbus muni with fat tires and 6" cranks. Guess what?

      It was very frustrating, and I felt like I had to learn how to ride a unicycle again. Mind you I mastered the 20" to the point of being able to ride 1-2 miles, and I could free mount and idle. So, I thought I was ready for bigger/better...I really wanted a 27" hatchet, but too much $$$'s...so settled for a $300 nimubus 24".

      1.) The cranks. When you get a bigger wheel, they tend to give you a longer crank. Going from 5" to 6"...doesn't sound like much but, it will completely throw off your timing and feel. So, I almost felt like I forgot how to ride a unicycle. It took a good week or two to get comfortable. Yes, you could get the same shorter cranks, but now you need extra power to turn the wheels.

      2.) The extra height(2" radius of extra height(probably closer to 3" due to fat tires) really makes a different. I felt like I had a longer way to fall. Also, a quick step off or failed free mount can easily end up with a twisted ankle or sprain.

      3.) Spikes on the pedals. Most muni's especially nimbus come with these "cool" spikes on the pedals, which tore up my shins on my first ride fall. Ouch, they took a few weeks to heal. They resulting scar looked like a swipe from a mountain lion. Remove those things or change pedals, asap; unless you are wearing those heavy Chris Holm pads that protect front/back.
      I nearly went for the 24" Muni! I got the 26" because I thought if it was impossible, I could still order a 24" wheel.

      I've been for one ride on the 26". When I saw the spikes I put on my soccer shin guards. My shins got ripped up by the plastic pedals on the 20". The extra height feels different dismounting/UPDing, though I was expecting it.
      20" Nimbus (Black, White Tire)
      26" Nimbus Muni (Duro Wildlife Leopard | Schwalbe Crazy Bob 2.35")

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Setonix View Post
        The most frustrating thing I remember from going from 20-26 was that free-mounting seemed impossible. Took me maybe a week to get the hang of it. By that time I was only 5 or 6 weeks into unicycling.
        I was amazed when my static free-mount worked on the new wheel almost at once. I'm several months in though, and I think my height helps too. And I'm not naturally talented, I still haven't mastered the rollback mount.
        20" Nimbus (Black, White Tire)
        26" Nimbus Muni (Duro Wildlife Leopard | Schwalbe Crazy Bob 2.35")

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Richard C View Post
          I was amazed when my static free-mount worked on the new wheel almost at once. I'm several months in though, and I think my height helps too. And I'm not naturally talented, I still haven't mastered the rollback mount.
          I'm 1.86m and that didn't make a difference for me.
          The rollback mount isn't so important. It just feels funny and since I can get on with a static mount, I won't bother trying anything else. Occasionally I mount and do a few hops before riding off or I try a rolling mount, but that only to see if I can do it.

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          • #50
            When I got my 26 the metal spikes on the pedals scared me, so I temporarily removed them. In no time I became comfortable on the 26" and then put them back on.. They screw on or Off.
            Last edited by mrfixit; 2019-10-09, 03:06 PM.

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            • #51
              Alright maybe I will put my spikes back

              Not all the spikes, but maybe 4 spikes(on inner side) for each pedal. That way if I should fall, it may spare my 50%. Just a warning for any newbies with spikes you must protect both front/back, because the pedal can hit you on your calves not just your shins.

              Anyways, 2 more things to consider for "buying a new unicycle":

              1.) You need a bike rack? or just throw it into your trunk? I like the convenience of throwing my 24" muni into my trunk along with all the existing junk inside my trunk. I could fit a 26" w/fat tires at the largest, but anything bigger will require 10 minutes of major re-arrangment each time. If I go even bigger(29" plus) I would definitely need a bike rack...seriously.

              2.) Tire replacement cost. Not a big deal, but it's something i have to do every 6 months from riding on both offroad and asphalt. My 24" Duro leopards only cost me about 50$, but w/tax/shipping get's around 80$. I'm sure anything bigger than 26 is easily about $100-$150 after tax/shipping. Are we all rich? Do we ride our unicycle everyday? Something to consider.
              Last edited by slamdance; 2019-10-10, 04:01 AM.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by slamdance View Post
                2.) Tire replacement cost. Not a big deal, but it's something i have to do every 6 months from riding on both offroad and asphalt. My 24" Duro leopards only cost me about 50$, but w/tax/shipping get's around 80$. I'm sure anything bigger than 26 is easily about $100-$150 after tax/shipping. Are we all rich? Do we ride our unicycle everyday? Something to consider.
                Really? every 6 months? I still have the stock tires on all the unis I bought. Now that I have a family I only ride once a week, but I used to ride all the time. In 4 years I've never replaced a tire and I fixed 3 tubes on different unis.
                Sometimes I just take off the cranks and put them on at a different angle from the wheel, so when I mount I don't always do it at the same spot on the tire. It is easier than taking off the tire and turning that around.

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by slamdance View Post

                  2.) Tire replacement cost. Not a big deal, but it's something i have to do every 6 months from riding on both offroad and asphalt.
                  How much do you ride?

                  I have ridden 664 km (Strava) on my 24" Duro Wildlife Leopard and it still has a looong way to go before a replacement is in order.

                  Because I was preparing for an event I guess some 75% of this distance was on-road.

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by Setonix View Post
                    Sometimes I just take off the cranks and put them on at a different angle from the wheel, so when I mount I don't always do it at the same spot on the tire. It is easier than taking off the tire and turning that around.
                    Wot?
                    You don't take it off. Deflate the tube, rotate the tire, reinflate.
                    Should be faster/easier than moving the cranks around.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Garp View Post
                      Wot?
                      You don't take it off. Deflate the tube, rotate the tire, reinflate.
                      Should be faster/easier than moving the cranks around.
                      ^_^ to be honest moving the tire was something I just thought of and all the time I've just used the crank lifter.
                      But don't you run the chance of damaging the tube when pulling the tire around?

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Setonix View Post
                        But don't you run the chance of damaging the tube when pulling the tire around?
                        I don't think so but it does get sticky sometimes, usually if I've used the uni under the rain.
                        When that happens, a bit of pinching/bouncing/shaking gets it unstuck.

                        The thing that bothers me with the cranks is that tight assemblies like that are usually best left alone. If I were to move them regularly, I'm afraid they'd tend to come loose by themselves after a while.

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by Garp View Post
                          I don't think so but it does get sticky sometimes, usually if I've used the uni under the rain.
                          When that happens, a bit of pinching/bouncing/shaking gets it unstuck.

                          The thing that bothers me with the cranks is that tight assemblies like that are usually best left alone. If I were to move them regularly, I'm afraid they'd tend to come loose by themselves after a while.
                          You probably have a point. When switching back and forth between different crank sizes, I had them loosen up along the first few rides. Now they are all tight again, but I never go riding without the various Allen-keys.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Setonix View Post
                            Really? every 6 months? I still have the stock tires on all the unis I bought. Now that I have a family I only ride once a week, but I used to ride all the time. In 4 years I've never replaced a tire and I fixed 3 tubes on different unis.
                            I ride about an hour a day 5 to 7 days a week. A tire lasts me 6 months, if I'm lucky. But I'm doing alot of turning, sliding, scuffing of the tire.
                            If you're not careful, it's possible to damage a tube when reinflating. If you're only moving in a straight line tires will last a really long time.

                            These were my 26 x3 tires:
                            Attached Files

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                            • #59
                              I would say with such muni tires, find a sandy place to play around on, then it won't wear out as much as on asphalt or brick road surfaces.

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                              • #60
                                Rotating the cranks is not a bad idea though, maybe not as often as the tire, but it's also good to change which spokes get the most load - especially if you do lots of jumps, or idling, as the wheel is always in the same position when you put all your weight on it. I seem to remember it's even a recommendation written in the KH instructions.

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