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  • m00ms
    replied
    hi tinkerbeau, tubeless seams to be a love or hate option from my dealings with but im going to stay tubed.

    thanks for offer of saddle swaps but i have brought a few qu-ax saddles which im currently swapping around to see which is more suited to me,im going to keep hold of the eleven for the time being but should i decide to get rid of it i will get in touch.

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  • Tinkerbeau
    replied
    Hi m00ms, yes, I will keep it for now but have a tube on standby if it should burp itself empty. I am not good enough a rider to feel the difference between tube \ -less but I punctures.

    Sorry to hear about your backbone pain.
    Iíd trade you a couple of Qu-ax muni and a (flattened) Nimbus extra padded saddle for an Eleven...
    PM me if interested.

    Leave a comment:


  • m00ms
    replied
    hi tinkerbeau its looks like your getting out enjoying your hatchet more than me sadly.are you going to stick with tubeless then as it sounds and looks like a pain, do you fel any benefit riding it tubeless?

    since buliding mine i have only been out twice very briefly it,i have been having back/tailbone trouble recently and find the qu-ax eleven saddle annoys it a lot so i have been trying different saddles on my 20" to try and get to the bottom of it (sorry bad pun!)

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  • Tinkerbeau
    replied
    Tubeless on the Nimbus Dominator+

    So, I finally made the conversion to 4.8 on my Hatchet, and I thought I share my experience in trying tubeless ghetto on the Dominator+ rim, with a Schwalbe Jumbo Jim Snakeskin TL.

    The rim does need some padding for the tyre to pre-seat sufficiently to inflate. Rather than playing around with closed cell foam, I went straight for the split tube method. That gave just enough padding to inflate (with a compressor or a SKS RideAir).
    I used a 20" tube, nicely stretched over the rim but a 24" would also do.
    Now, the proof lies in the pudding which, in my case, is the very muddy (squelch) ground in my local park. I had some problems previously with the 4" Jumbo Jims sinking in or slipping and I found the 4.8 to make a big difference. Speaking of big: I weigh 100kg, so that is fair load for a single tyre.
    I initially had the tyre at 15 PSI and I have tried to dial it down to 10 PSI for more float in the mud. That is better on the wet, but obviously worse for self-steer on the access roads albeit manageable (for a beginner like me). However, at 10 PSI the tyre burps easily and sealant seeps out - see photos.
    Back at 12-13 PSI and it is holding.

    Overall, after about 20km of tubeless riding, I think it was worth a try but not perfect. The rim is probably not ideal for tubeless and with a Schwalbe fat tube weighing ~400g vs a considerable amount of sealant needed in the extra-fat tyre, I doubt that there is much advantage in the conditions that I use it for (tarmac access road, some hard-pack, lots of muddy grass). If I had more hard-pack, thorns or stones the extra puncture protection would probably be worth it. I guess for tubeless it might be better to go 32 hole and use a proper tubeless ready rim as discussed earlier in this thread.
    Attached Files

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  • m00ms
    replied
    just taken my hatchet out for its first ride!!

    intial shock was the low tyre pressure and feeling the bike squelch around under you (never ridden fat bike either). played with seat height as i had it way too low then had about a half hour ride around in a car park near me that has a nice big slope to it and a speed bump on the entrance,a couple of ruts and is currently littered with tree branches.

    i didnt know what to expect really with it,you do have to pedal it hard but its just like a bulldozer and once rolling it just wants to run everything over! first time with a brake for me which i like but can see it could get you in trouble easily.

    on the whole its very different to anything i have ridden before but i like it and look forward to next time out on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • m00ms
    replied
    ive never built using a carbon rim but glad i stuck with ali by the sounds of it,im not realyy into weight saving and all that but even if i was my dt swiss 710 is only slightly heavier.

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  • DrD
    replied
    Thanks for that, it will be interesting to see how it goes, I'll certainly learn something doing it (even if it is just not to do it again! ). Given what you say, it might be worth me getting a spoke tension meter for this, I've just pinged spokes in the past.

    I guess it comes down to the high lateral stiffness of the carbon rim -- a fat one will be even stiffer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Piece Maker
    replied
    Originally posted by DrD View Post

    Any tips you have for building a fat wheel would be appreciated, it has been a while since I last built a wheel.
    Not sure about the difference between a skinny vs. fatty rim, but the difference between building a carbon vs. ali rim is pretty weird. It'll spoke up perfectly and look true without even trying, but all your spokes will be tensioned weird, so you have to de-stress it (put the rim on a surface and put weight on the hub, or the other way round, turn it over and do it again from the other side) THEN true it a second time. Carbon does NOT like unevenly tensioned spokes at all!

    Leave a comment:


  • DrD
    replied
    Originally posted by m00ms View Post
    your right the whole thing is an endulgence and currently mine is hanging up on a bike stand and it makes me chuckle when i look at it or spin the wheel!
    That's the sort of enjoyment you get from a piece of art

    Originally posted by m00ms View Post
    have you decide on rim,hub yet? if you do go the dt dwiss 710 route i will pass on tips i found with building mine if you want.
    Well I decided I would go the 32 hole route with a LightBicycle fat carbon rim and run it tubeless. I've ordered the hub -- it is coming from UDC in the US as these things seem to be like hen's teeth and it was the only place that I could find them. I haven't ordered the rim yet as I have been away and seem to have been haemorrhaging money into other things, so a carbon rim extravagance can wait a while. Given the rim is a standard bike part that hopefully won't be an issue.

    Any tips you have for building a fat wheel would be appreciated, it has been a while since I last built a wheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • m00ms
    replied
    hi drd,

    lets hope that you dont have troubles with yours when you get to bulid it,my brake is fine now as it would appear that the IS mount is ever so slightly off where it should be,i am a little disapointed if the frame quality is slightly off but the frame looks great in everyway now so i quess i will never know.

    your right the whole thing is an endulgence and currently mine is hanging up on a bike stand and it makes me chuckle when i look at it or spin the wheel! have you decide on rim,hub yet? if you do go the dt dwiss 710 route i will pass on tips i found with building mine if you want.

    i hope to ride mine very soon as i have serviced and repalaced the pedal bearings now,the pedal is super smooth although it still made a tiny click so i have put the pedal on my mtb so i can go and get some miles in on the pedal tomorrow to see if that helps settle it or i will have to get some other for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • DrD
    replied
    Hi m00ms

    I got the frame from UDC here in the UK, it looks absolutely fine, but then you only probably noticed an issue with your one when you mounted your brake.

    Yes, it is a complete and utter indulgence, not just the pedals, the whole thing... That said, I've found there are definite physical and mental health benefits to this unicycle thing, and many indulgences are perhaps not quite so 'wholesome' Like you the whole thing gives me enjoyment and can be a distraction from other stuff going on in the world.

    I don't have any desire for a fat bike either, the first I was aware of fat tyred cycles was actually a fat recumbent trike that ICE did a few years ago. Then again, I didn't have any desire for a fat unicycle until a few months ago!

    Leave a comment:


  • m00ms
    replied
    hi drd,

    i did wonder if stickers not being stuck on was due to other issues which was why i asked the question of you and your thinking the same as me makes me wonder if i have been supplied a sub quality frame.can i ask where your frame came from? mine was from unicycle.com.

    your pedals sure are pricey but like you i enjoy building and having something different to an out of the box unicycle which makes it feel great so whats a little endulgance!

    i was not really aware of fat unis until i saw one on ebay for sale and thought that wicked,i cant stand fat bikes but for whatever reason do like uni!

    i did watch many hatchet videos on youtube but didnt come across yours,they sure are having a lot of fun on theres.sadly i do not now anyone local to me that rides unicycles as all my biking friends think one wheel is crazy.
    Last edited by m00ms; 2019-08-04, 09:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • DrD
    replied
    Originally posted by m00ms View Post
    Hi drd did your frame come with the stickers in an envelope? Yes stickers were red but as they werenít on the frame I got them re made in yellow when I saw the quax eleven saddle,hopefully I have not overdone the yellow theme!
    The frame came with the stickers attached, it is funny that your's didn't -- I wonder if there is any connection with that and the brake caliper problem you had (eg. they didn't put the stickers on frames with an issue).

    Originally posted by m00ms View Post
    Thatís a shame you have not had time to build yours yet but I hope you get round to it soon.
    I'll need to get around to ordering some bits. Lack of time is pretty much normal and just a way of life it seems

    With respect to pedals I've taken a bit of a thing for Hope F20 ones so I'll probably put a pair of them on the Hatchet. I've got a pair on my 29'er muni and 29'er mountain bike -- bought first for the unicycle since they are machined from solid and the end of the pedal axle is within the pedal body so I figured they could take a bit of a beating with dropping them etc. I liked them so much on the uni that I bought a pair for the bike. The grip with a pair of 5.10s is very good. Hope also do a service kit for them with new cartridge bearings and seals should that be needed. The downside is the price, but I like Hope stuff.... (and I essentially got the first pair free with Tesco vouchers which pleased me very much at the time!)

    So building up the Hatchet will probably end up costing me quite a bit more than buying a whole one, but that wasn't the point. I'll just buy the parts over some time and build it up -- I like doing that; I get the fun building it, then riding it, and end up with something built just the way I want it using nice stuff -- or at least that is the plan

    I only really started thinking of a fat uni when I saw UniMart's YouTube video and it looked a whole load of fun rolling over things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ub5R6Oa_YB4

    Leave a comment:


  • Aali
    replied
    I can confirm that 3/32 bearing balls are not easily available, I asked from a couple of Shimano official bike repair shops and they did not have them although many Shimano pedals indeed use them. Had to order them online. This was a couple of years ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • OneTrackMind
    replied
    Originally posted by m00ms View Post
    Just looked on eBay and 3/32 loose bearings are readily available
    Yes. I found them easily on eBay but in the USA.

    Had no luck locating them in Australia.

    Leave a comment:

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