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Is there a way to use a broken crank puller to remove cranks?

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  • Is there a way to use a broken crank puller to remove cranks?

    I have never in my life removed cranks before, so I'm completely new at this. I just got the 2 in 1 crank puller(https://www.unicycle.com/crank-puller-2-in-1/) from UDC and it didn't take 2 minutes before I broke it while trying to remove ISIS cranks from my 26" municycle. I broke it at the narrow section. Is there a way I can still use it to remove cranks? I already watched some YouTube tutorials and read the instructions and still I broke it.

    Also, is the "Park CCP-44C ISIS Crank Removal Tool" a sturdier tool for crank removal?

  • #2
    I use Park Tool's CWP-7. I like it because it is cheaper and more versitile than the CCP-44C (can remove splined and square taper) and you can move the wrench around on it to get more leverage (yeah you do have to use a wrench, I think it's a 15mm box or open end, a crescent will work though.)

    You could probably put a dime or something similar in the crank hole (something that is bigger than the bolt hole, but smaller than the crank.) That method works if you have a regular square taper puller and not an ISIS one. The trick to using those tools is to be sure the threads of the smaller piece (the first piece you install on the crank) are all the way in the crank arm and not actually being limited by the tip of the handle or pusher piece. This can be prevented by unthreading both pieces completely apart first, or be sure that the nose of the crank extractor is recessed and not sticking out at all before installing it. Sometimes people will think it's threaded all the way in, but the nose of the other piece is actually on the crank spindle and limiting how far you can screw the other part in, so it will still rip out all of the extracting threads out of your crank anyways.

    I went to the link and can figure out where it broke. You might need a few dimes or something, but I'll bet you can still avoid pickle-forking it off or riding without a crank bolt and seeing if it comes loose (I have never tried this, only heard it suggested.) I HAVE tried the pickle fork, and usually it comes at a marring cost, but not sure if it would work on a unicycle. I will have to look. I wouldn't want to have to use it on mine, though.
    Last edited by Jener8or; 2017-11-19, 09:02 PM.

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    • #3
      If you can take the thin part off of the broken tip of the crank puller, maybe use the other part and try to take up the extra space with coins. If you have a grinder or hacksaw, a nice hex bolt head or maybe a nut that fits well (the same size as the tip of the actual tool) might work and be more sturdier than coins..

      Edit: Also, if you want, instead of investing in a crank puller, you can get some self-extracting crank bolts instead (just make sure they are the same sized crank bolts you had before.)
      Last edited by Jener8or; 2017-11-19, 09:49 PM. Reason: additon

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      • #4
        Thank you for all the advice, will definitely look into this.

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        • #5
          I don't know about over there, but over here, if an item failed in normal use the first time it was used, we would get our money back or a replacement. Have you spoken to the people you bought it from?
          My first novel, Bridge of Otherwhere, Michael Wilkinson, on Kindle. A tale of subtle magic, mystery, friendship and love. Tinyurl.com/Bridge-of-Otherwhere For US$ page: TinyURL.com/OtherwhereBridge

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Acrorebel View Post
            I broke it at the narrow section. Is there a way I can still use it to remove cranks??
            I have the same crank puller and I've used it several times without breaking. But like Mikefule says, if it breaks already on first use, you should get a refund.

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            • #7
              Sorry to keep posting, but you can see I edited my post about the self-extracting crank bolts; I originally said to get "ISIS" compatible crank bolts, but amended because there are actually 3 sizes of ISIS crank bolts, but you need the m12 sized bolts which will be compatible with Nimbus or Kris Holm cranks.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jener8or View Post
                Sorry to keep posting, but you can see I edited my post about the self-extracting crank bolts; I originally said to get "ISIS" compatible crank bolts, but amended because there are actually 3 sizes of ISIS crank bolts, but you need the m12 sized bolts which will be compatible with Nimbus or Kris Holm cranks.
                Let's make this a bit more clear: There are two thread sizes (and directions) you need to match:

                1: The size of thread in your hub, which is m12 for nimbus and Kris-Holm cranks, but could also be m8, m13 (early Impact hubs I believe), and m15 (for Koxx one and QU-AX Isis disk), but it's best to just measure your bolts yourself. All of these are right hand threaded.

                2: The size of thread in your crank, where your crank puller attaches, which, for most cranks (that don't come with a self extractor included) is M22x1, right hand thread.
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by finnspin View Post
                  Let's make this a bit more clear: There are two thread sizes (and directions) you need to match:

                  1: The size of thread in your hub, which is m12 for nimbus and Kris-Holm cranks, but could also be m8, m13 (early Impact hubs I believe), and m15 (for Koxx one and QU-AX Isis disk), but it's best to just measure your bolts yourself. All of these are right hand threaded.
                  I have never personally seen m8 ISIS crank bolts, but apparently they do exist! So ISIS has officially used m8, m12, m13, m14, and m15 bolt sizes upon further research. The safest thing to do would be to measure the bolt, of course. I would strongly bet he is using either Nimbus or KH cranks, so the m12 bolts will be the ones he is looking for. But yes, as I stated earlier, there are different sized crank bolts and it's worth checking before buying, sorry if I didn't state that clear enough.

                  Originally posted by finnspin View Post
                  2: The size of thread in your crank, where your crank puller attaches, which, for most cranks (that don't come with a self extractor included) is M22x1, right hand thread.
                  There are also different crank extracting thread diameters, but it is nothing to be worried about. Most new crank extractors will be compatible with the mostly standardized crank extracting thread size, and if it has the older size (m23 and others), it usually has the newer size on the tool, too, and you can flip it around. The m22 size is definitely not one I would be too concerned about when purchasing a new extractor! All three tools mentioned will work for his cranks, so let's not actually make things more complicated.

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                  • #10
                    I just got the Park Tool CWP-7 and the cranks just came right off. I struggled with the other crank remover and it broke, but with the CWP-7 they came off surprisingly fast. Thanks, Jener! The CWP-7 seems stronger.

                    I'll see what I can do about getting a replacement or refund for the broken 2-in-1 crank remover.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Acrorebel View Post
                      I just got the Park Tool CWP-7 and the cranks just came right off. I struggled with the other crank remover and it broke, but with the CWP-7 they came off surprisingly fast. Thanks, Jener! The CWP-7 seems stronger.

                      I'll see what I can do about getting a replacement or refund for the broken 2-in-1 crank remover.
                      do share the results with us mate!

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