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  • #31
    I don't think there's zero resistance.
    KH20 Street, 110/127 Moments with rollos
    Stock KH27.5 with Black Street Saddle
    Oracle 36/Oregon Hub, 127/150 spirit

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    • #32
      Yes, a fatter tire/low pressure generally means greater rolling resistance. But I think we get the idea: Smoooooooth rolling with no tread noise or vibration!

      I imagine if you have long cranks and poor spinning skills, i.e. an inefficient spin of the pedals, you could end up bouncing all over the place while trying to ride in a straight line...
      John Foss
      www.unicycling.com

      "Who is going to argue with a mom who can ride a unicycle?" -- Forums member "HiMo"

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      • #33
        Originally posted by johnfoss View Post
        Yes, a fatter tire/low pressure generally means greater rolling resistance. But I think we get the idea: Smoooooooth rolling with no tread noise or vibration!
        Actually wide tyres have less rolling resistance at a given pressure than narrow tyres. Put another way, to achieve a rolling resistance of X with two otherwise-identical tyres of differing widths, you will need to inflate the narrow tyre to a higher pressure than the wider tyre.

        Of course a wider tyre might be heavier, harder to steer (depending on pressure) etc.

        Pressure and rolling resistance is a bit weird too. On smooth surfaces more pressure means less rolling resistance. But offroad more pressure can often increase the rolling resistance.
        Unicycling is the fountain of youth.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by lightbulbjim View Post
          Actually wide tyres have less rolling resistance at a given pressure than narrow tyres. Put another way, to achieve a rolling resistance of X with two otherwise-identical tyres of differing widths, you will need to inflate the narrow tyre to a higher pressure than the wider tyre.
          The pressure difference necessary to ride on a tire that's actually narrow compared to a super-fat one makes it impossible to compare them realistically at the same pressure. In other words, higher pressure as the tire narrows should be a realistic assumption.

          That said, I don't know if rolling resistance is the same as friction. I was thinking in terms of friction in my previous post.
          Last edited by johnfoss; 2017-04-27, 03:27 AM.
          John Foss
          www.unicycling.com

          "Who is going to argue with a mom who can ride a unicycle?" -- Forums member "HiMo"

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by johnfoss View Post
            The pressure difference necessary to ride on a tire that's actually narrow compared to a super-fat one makes it impossible to compare them realistically at the same pressure. In other words, higher pressure as the tire narrows should be a realistic assumption.

            That said, I don't know if rolling resistance is the same as friction. I was thinking in terms of friction in my previous post.
            You're right that it's not practical to compare them at the same pressure, but the principle still stands. As an example, a 25mm wide tyre at 100 PSI might have the same rolling resistance as a 50mm wide tyre at 60 PSI. There are many other factors at play, of course, such as tread, tyre material, wall thickness and probably shape.


            source
            Unicycling is the fountain of youth.

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            • #36
              Good chart! A reminder that tire pressure is always going to be a factor in how much energy it takes to move a wheel, regardless of width. A 5" tire with really high pressure might be pretty interesting to take on a bumpy trail. You might bounce like a basketball!
              John Foss
              www.unicycling.com

              "Who is going to argue with a mom who can ride a unicycle?" -- Forums member "HiMo"

              Comment


              • #37
                I have seen some pictures of the Hatchet with a Snowshoe 2XL on them but I cannot tell what size rims they are.
                I have a couple of Clown Shoes lying around from a fat bike and want to put one in my hatchet with a Snowshoe 2XL. I need to order the hub from UDC US and want to make sure everything is going to fit before I do.
                Has anyone put a 100mm rim with a Snowshoe 2XL in a Hatchet yet (with pictures)?

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by johnfoss View Post
                  Good chart! A reminder that tire pressure is always going to be a factor in how much energy it takes to move a wheel, regardless of width. A 5" tire with really high pressure might be pretty interesting to take on a bumpy trail. You might bounce like a basketball!
                  Indeed.
                  I have the Vee Apache at about 15 PSI and it feels solid. It takes very little energy to get it rolling. I cannot imagine a thinner tire at 15 PSI rolling as easily.

                  The Apache says it can go to 40 PSI but I cannot imagine the person that would want to do that. At 15 I feel every bump and have to hold on tight on a bumpy road.
                  I took the wheel out of my uni and tried to bounce it like a basketball and perhaps a new sport is to be had. Once I got it going it was very easy to dribble.

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                  • #39
                    2xl on 100mm rims

                    256mm spokes both sides, 36 hole rim.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Bens View Post
                      256mm spokes both sides, 36 hole rim.
                      Nice ! With a build like that, you do not need to worry about turning anymore. Straight line forever

                      I will have to do a tire measurement on a 65mm rim (as it may be slightly narrower than on your 100mm rim).

                      It would be fun if you could picture the clearance in the Hatchet frame
                      Last edited by Siddhartha Valmont; 2017-08-21, 06:44 AM.
                      => CrMo 29: KH XC rim, Nimbus CrMo hub, Spirit 110/137 & Schwalbe Big One
                      => Flansberrium 26: Nextie rim, JumboJim 4.0, Spirit 127/150mm, M4O ISIS

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                      • #41
                        Muni Dreaming

                        I'm just getting into unicycling (still learning on Club 20) but my dream is to Muni at local parks. Believe it or not Florida has great Mountain biking due to old mining areas. See "Swamp club" website.
                        OK onto what I'm asking...The Hatchet looks so badass to me is it the be-all end-all of off-road munis? Can I jump from my 20 Club straight to Hatchet someday without first going to 24" muni?
                        I know folks say you'll end up with several unicycles but my budget says no.
                        "Knowledge is gained right after you needed it the most"

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by ScaredOldKid View Post
                          Can I jump from my 20 Club straight to Hatchet someday without first going to 24" muni?
                          Your 20" Club is a great first unicycle. The Hatchet is a great fifth, sixth or seventh unicycle. IMHO, there are better choices for your second unicycle. I am curious if the SWAMP mountain biking people are using fat tires. I live in Southern California. Fat tire unicycling is not really a thing, here (save, maybe for riding on the beach), partly because the ground is firmer, and partly because riders want a light tire for hill climbing. Florida conditions are different, however. If there are many, many giant roots on the trail, for example, maybe the Hatchet is the right choice. One of the posters on this thread made a remark about never having to steer again on the Hatchet. The comment suggests a couple things: One, the Hatchet rides over everything, and two, the Hatchet is less nimble, less able to steer.

                          You mentioned 24" muni. My most recent unicycle build is a lightweight 24". Impact frame (with the newer, smaller, lighter bearings), Exceed titanium hub, no brake, no handlebars, 150mm Venture cranks and a lightweight, 2.1" Schwalbe Smart Sam tire. A firm, light unicycle has great response and thus provides excellent feedback. A big, fat, squishy unicycle doesn't provide that kind of response. The Hatchet will, I think, inhibit your learning, and at the same time give you a false sense of control.

                          I suggest, for your second unicycle (really, your first nice one) go for something more middle-of-the-road, maybe KH or Nimbus Oracle 26" or 27.5".

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                          • #43
                            Great advise thank you so much. As far as the Hatchet I was thinking the 27.5 mostly because That's my mountain bike size plus I figured the fat 26 could be a handfull.
                            Would there be any sense too buying the hatchet 27.5 and put a 24" wheel fto start as my second unicycle???
                            I'll write down the size and crank that you build and think about copying that for maybe my second unicycle.
                            "Knowledge is gained right after you needed it the most"

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by elpuebloUNIdo View Post
                              I am curious if the SWAMP mountain biking people are using fat tires.
                              Not too many Fat tires here however "Plus" size is popular but maybe that is just because folks want to try them.
                              "Knowledge is gained right after you needed it the most"

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                              • #45
                                You could do that, but take note that the hatchet has a wider hub you might not want.

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