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Question About Swapping Nimbus Cranks

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  • Question About Swapping Nimbus Cranks

    I'm trying to replace my 165mm Nimbus Venture cranks with 150mm Ventures. This is my first crank swap and I didn't get very far. While trying to loosen the crank bolts (counter-clockwise), I snapped my 8mm hex wrench. So now I've ordered a better long handle hex wrench to try and get the job done. But I'm wondering if it's normal for the crank bolts to be on so tight? It felt like they were welded on.

  • #2
    When i took mine off for the first, second and every time i take them off the were incredibly tight. If they aren't you will run into issue.
    My Youtube - http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkbs...?feature=guide

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    • #3
      When it comes to hex wrenches it does spook me when I'm really torquing on them and the thought of the potential injury if it breaks. Too much flex and I stop and find an alternative approach.

      I love the Park wrench I got specifically for handling the ISIS crank bolts...

      http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8

      I hope this is the one you ordered. Not cheap but worth the $$$'s.

      pax
      http://app.strava.com/clubs/28614

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      • #4
        Ya all of my hubs were tight the first time
        Roses are red, violets are blue, may I procreate with you so I can ride a g32!! - Alan hogan

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        • #5
          Thanks for the insights and tips, everyone. I went to a local Trek store and bought a Park Tool CCW-5 crank wrench. Worked like a charm and now I'm rockin' my brand new 150mm cranks.

          Speaking of...I didn't know if I'd even be able to tell the difference between 165mm and 150mm cranks, but man was I wrong about that. The 150s seem so much more efficient to pedal--just hope they feel as good out on the trail.

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          • #6
            The CCW-5 looks like a good choice... I could use the 14mm socket for my old bike cranks. I like the 'ball' end on the wrench I bought for easy spinning removal once loosened on an ISIS bolt.

            Yes- 165, 150, 137, 125, 110 seem like small steps but they make huge differences to mounting, torque on climbing and speed potential on a unicycle. On the bike I'm hard pressed to tell the difference between my 165 track set-up fixie and the 170's on my road machine.

            Road uni is well matched at 137 or below depending on wheel size. Muni at 165 or 150 seems to be good choice depending upon terrain and wheel size.

            Have fun experimenting as you gain experience.

            pax
            http://app.strava.com/clubs/28614

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